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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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The Alps is a great chapter in the upcoming Frost book!
Most folks have seen the AAJ and Summit articles about the 1963 season but this December 63 Sierra Club Bulletin is harder to find.
Thanks to Bill Amborn, here is Tom's account.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Steve,
Great find. The Pilier Derobe is still a highly respected route and was a great achievement for Frost and Harlin. Truly the hard way back to Chamonix from Courmayeur!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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this thread continues to put a smile on my face..year after year.
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steve shea
climber
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Yes it is one of the best threads. That pitch over the final ice bulge on the Dru Couloir Direct is the most difficult alpine ice pitch I have ever done. We retreated from just above it on much easier ground due to circumstances beyond my control. Jack Roberts, Mugs Stump, Randy Trover and me. Rick and Tobin went back the following week and did the route. It was my first alpine mixed climb in the Mt Blanc. and worthy of a write up someday. Quite an epic we had.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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We're all ears brother!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Bump for a story on a wintry night...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Classic Bump!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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Going to re-bump!
This thread probably has more pictures of my early climbing heroes than any. I especially like the pics of "Drunken Ferguson":-)
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
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blimp - in conjunction with Jim's Ouray thread
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Feb 21, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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A thread that should never be out of sight :)
Jeff Steet on modern Snoqualmie ice
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carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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Hello... new here and very please to see so good climbers.
I met Steve Brewer and Mark Richey in 78... they climbed Chacraraju East... and our group the West... Bouchard/Meunier route.
Please permit me a photo for all you..
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Bienvenidos Carlos!
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carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:24am PT
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Thanks, Steve... IŽll try to collaborate from the old Europe... with old and not so ones photos and histories of climbing activities.
The stuff in the above photos was the one of the years... wooden and plastic iceaxes Stubai Nanga Parbat... salewa crampons and 50m. 9mm. single rope.
We found a rock peg from Bouchard/Meunier first climb... and made two bivouacs. Fantastic climb and hard in those years.
To congratulate Rick A... for the first ascent direct Dru couloir.
I tried in winter 91... but too hard for us... we retreated in the rock section.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Feb 23, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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Great stuff, thank you!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Feb 23, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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Lowe pick came much later. That is a very late model Chacal...post '82 and near the end of production. The two holes in the handle and the black rubber shaft insulation all are indicators. The two, brass tube lined holes in the handle (one for a leash the other for an umbilical) the most clear indicators of age. A quick look through a Mountain Magazine adn Simond ad's campaign will give you a better idea of the exact age. But I know Climb High didn't import the 2 hole version until the Barracuda (adze version) showed up.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Thanks for the dating Dane.
I am curious if the pick shape or detailing changed much by the time mine came out.
Do you have an early one?
Off to the Mountain mags otherwise.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Feb 23, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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I have earlier ones but not the first generation red handled and double spike one. I kept upgrading as the newest models were producted. I never appreciated the dbl spike (but would now as I would a Roosterheads dbl spike) and the full black rubber shafts and dbl holes were a good improvemt IMO. I still have my last pair and a couple of spares of differing lengths plus an axe. Same pair Simond gave away at the '79 Resembalance.
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carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
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Feb 24, 2013 - 06:52am PT
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Stubai Nanga Parbat 1973. (handle modified)
Charlet Moser G 1975.
Peck Terrordactyl 1977.
B.D. Black Prophet 1996 ??? not sure. I owned years before de B.P. in black straight handle.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Feb 24, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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