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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Ghost, I approve. Summery, light, FAB!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
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Lololololol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Ok it's not in the bluffs, not at the malamute, probably not Murrin by the look of the stone. The tree in the background is pretty big so I'm going to say something in the valley of shaddai.
Even in the ballpark or what??
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MH2
climber
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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spruce?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:33am PT
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spruce?
Spruce? I don't know nuthin about trees. But Ryan is definitely in the ballpark. Valley of Shaddai for sure. Start of the third pitch of the Avalon Connection.
Great climb in an incredible place.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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Thanks! My headache went away. I have done that route, but did not recognize it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:40am PT
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Nice Ghost, that looks quality!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 14, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature to the spot where the photographer is standing?
edit: nevermind. looked in the book.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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do you ape across that traverse, or sneak down the rampy feature
The crack is actually the upper edge of a flake and you can get your whole arm into it and hang off a sort of easy chicken wing. And the rampy feature is not a feature -- just looks like one in the photo. So, yeah, you ape across that part.
But the real business is at the end of the traverse where you have to switch up and into another upward traversing crack.
First time we climbed it we knew nothing about it. Just a description in the guidebook that made it sound like a fun and easy 3-pitch outing to end the day in the Valley of Shaddai (i.e. it ends at the rim so you don't have to do the death gulley climb to get out). I think it was written up as something like 5.9, 10a, 10a.
What a joke.
But it truly is a great climb. Okay, it's not High Plains Drifter, but it offers excellent and varied climbing in an amazing spot. When you're in the Valley of Shaddai, it's almost as if you'd stepped through a wormhole into some other place than Squamish.
So if you haven't climbed it, put it on your list, cuz it's definitely worth the entry fee. Just don't expect easy.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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list of climbs to do edit- rescrub
-Avalon connection. Valley of Shaddai
 ?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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From what I recall it needs a three pitch rescrub to be climbable at this point.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Happy st party's day everyone!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Mar 17, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Happy St Patty's you northern monkeys.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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Hey, it is awesome to see all of you still climbing through the winter in Squamish! I am so jealous, sitting at home in drizzly Vancouver. Happy late St Patrick's Day, btw! Too bad the awesome weather didn't last...
Anyway, I am heading up to Whistler next week and am interested in getting in some rock climbing. Is there some kind of beta somewhere that I can get my hands on for Spanky's Wall or any other alpine areas and/or routes? If any of you knows about the area or has tips, please share!
Thanks! You guys are an inspiration!
David
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Mar 20, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Great TR dude! ^^^ Thanks.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Thanks a lot Bruce. I will not bother you with the book, but thanks for the offer! Sounds like fun, I look forward to next week! I'll also skip on the Guinness as I am only 16, Haha! Thank you!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 22, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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It's generally a good idea to skip the Guinness, regardless of age!! :) :) H.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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Go for the Guinness if you are old enough, but stay away from the dreadful bottled stuff that pretends to be Guinness.
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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I'm in a similar program at a different school. I will remember that, Hamie and Tricouni!
And for the sake of the forum, I got on the only thing that was dry yesterday in Vancouver, which, unfortunately, is only toprope-able. It is still quite beautiful...
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