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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Thanks Bruce! As far as i know there wasn't any pooping.. Unless Nick left something out? ;) He did lose it pretty good when his knee got stuck tho. I was glad to be able to calm him down a bit and coax him through it, rather than having to crawl over there and pull it out for him. We were so close, yet so far. :)
Edit: Very nice Mh2. How's the pro on that rig?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've posted this somewhere before, but since there have been several recent mentions of Digital Dexterity, here's a shot of the first ascent.
I didn't have a partner one morning, so took my hammer and a rack of pins into the bluffs and banged my way up a crack. Old wave A3. Now it's what? 12a?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Nice ghost. I'm sure all the digital dexterity fans are thanking you for those nice piton holds!
Jim you should have your little point and shoot on hand for trail riding!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And I'm sure that your pitoning was much appreciated by whoever sinks their pinky tips in there.
It was surprisingly hard aid. Not really serious, but harder than I expected. As to appreciation from the pinky-tips brigade, I probably didn't help them that much with my one ascent, and I doubt it ever had another aid ascent. Who would bother? The only reason I did it was cuz I was alone and bored on a Saturday morning. It's what? 15 meters high, max?
Nice looking little problem for fingers and toes, although it was always beyond me.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I know it had more than one ascent 'cause there's a story about Enrico Kindl and Andy Pacheco (maybe?) practicing aiding on it in in an 80s VOCJ. I think the story involves ripping a copperhead in a fall.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Digital Dexterity is actually quite a fine rainy day activity. Equalizing the first two bolts as an anchor and then fiddling with cam hooks and beaks past the rest of the bolts provides for a few cheap thrills and much inner turmoil whilst the camhooks rattle around and one is forced to wonder if their friends will ridicule them for cratering on a sport climb..
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MH2
climber
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Yes. Same thing with Little Feat. The ground is too close. Gear is there but not necessarily going to save you.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ahh brownie, excellent.
I aided digital dexterity with cam hooks & quickdraws last winter in the rain one day with brownie. Perhaps the prime of my illustrious aid climbing career, it probably only took me an hour. I just couldn't bring myself to skip those shiny bolts as I had already considered & knew the answer to brownies fears. It is now a sandbag 12c "sport" climb if u have fings the size of a 6 year old girl.
You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??
Oh! That's little feet, yes I remember now- it has a bolt but a runout feel with not much else in the way of reassuring gear. It was a good one, to do once. There is a variation as well that climbs more direct that is also worth doing, once.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Are u talking left of frail scales Bruce?? If so there was a freeclimbing jihad put on those shorter lines a few years back. A la Moorhead I think. They may be in the newer select guide.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??
No, I didn't name it. As far as I know it wasn't named til Jola climbed it.
The only things I remember about it are that it was fairly tricky, and that I didn't use any heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.
I'd left my camera on the ground and when Corina and John Wittmayer got back from whatever they'd climbed, one of them shot a couple of pictures.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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The other good thing about leeper Z stacks is that they exert lots of outwards force.
Back in the days when logging road gates didn't have the big guard bell over the lock and there was easier access directly to the lock, we discovered that a Leeper Z, two angles, and a good hammering would pop the lock open on many locked gates. Almost like a skeleton key.
Ding ding ding, pop!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Funny stuff guys.
Ahhh dec 85. Great year, I was a few months into kindergarten & innsecantly begging my parents to go to expo 86 the next summer to ride the scream machine. Sadly I was too short by about an inch and a half when the day actually arrived months later. Probably scarred from that denial to this day.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mr Hatten always maintained that far too many folks resorted to heads for the simple reason they were too lazy to figure out how to craft a good pin stack, which as you know can be a pretty bomber thing of beauty esp if a leeper is employed
Leeper stacks were almost like cheating. Like the difference between old rubber and the new sticky rubber, or between hexes and spring-loaded cams. And yes, far more secure in most cases than a pasted head.
Edit:
I can hear Daryl cackling at you from the grave as I type this "harris, you're light! with pin stacks and hammer blows to the brain direct(!) that thing is A2 max"
Well, compared to Daryl, I am light. But then, compared to Daryl, who wasn't light?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sexpo! Where thousands of teenage boys & girls first got laid.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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I also missed out on the sex part of expo! Dammit. I was 8.. Lol
We did go tho. Somehow i don't remember riding the screamer..
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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I bet you would have made the height requirement, Mike.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 11, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
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Thanks Bruce!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 12, 2014 - 12:13am PT
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Nice Bruce! Classic stuff, keep em comin eh!
Killer toque Hamish!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 12, 2014 - 12:25am PT
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You can call us the f team till the cows come home but I gotta say that was real mans' work.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2014 - 02:24am PT
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Good to see Big Mike enjoying his new camera. Bruce keep posting all those pics, great stories too.
Ah Expo, I was so busy at my stand that year I finally went on the very last day. Shame they never kept that outdoor amphitheater for concerts, saw Annie Lennox there.
Concerts of Expo 86: Einstürzende Neubauten, Harry Belafonte, Anne Murray, Billy Ocean, Bruce Cockburn, Miles Davis, Wynton Marsalis, Annie Lennox - Eurythmics, Julio Iglesias, Amy Grant, Loverboy, A-ha, Liberace, Mormon Tabernacle Choir, Gowan, Parachute Club, Joan Baez with Don McLean, Kenny Loggins, Lou Rawls & The 5th Dimension, Honeymoon Suite, Kim Mitchell, Johnny Cash, Depeche Mode, Joe Jackson, George Thorogood + the Delaware Destroyers, Smokey Robinson, George Benson, John Denver, The Beach Boys, Air Supply, Peter, Paul & Mary, The Manhattan Transfer, The Temptations, René Simard, k.d. lang (opening for Rockin' Ronnie Hawkins), Peter Allen, Sheena Easton, Trooper, Bryan Adams, The Romaniacs, Tangerine Dream, Youssou N'Dour, Rolf Harris, Kool & The Gang, Roy Orbison, Fats Domino with Jerry Lee Lewis, Donovan.
Real men don't use husqvarnas.
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