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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Good stuff Mike! Talk to U in a bit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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You're welcome Tami. Love to you and phil too!
Too anyone that feels left out because they didn't get a card yet, sorry! There is just so many we want to do, and being that they are hand made and scripted, they take awhile. We hope to have them all out soon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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It's another gorgeous day here in the Little Smoke Bluffs
Ryan warming up on Ridgerunner
Thekidcormier on belay
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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It's kyle! Subject of many of my photos!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Un- bearded Kyle strikes again.
Cool pics Mike, fun day!
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perswig
climber
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Your photos keep getting better and better, Big Mike.
And nice TR, grippa.
Thanks!
Dale
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MH2
climber
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Great stuff, Mike. This thread is gold.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Crimeny! I have got to come up there and party with er ah climb with you all!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You fukkin kids. Slacklining with safety leashes. Why, back in the day, we did it the right way. And I ain't just talkin' about leashes...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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You jump on that thing BK??
Cool photos Bruce!
Sounds like quite the party up there these days. What's with the slogging laps? Are u training for a larger objective?
We had an enlightening chat with RB today as well. Told us he got booted from the upper gondy stn by "some bloke" after driving up there and hiking around.
Edit- oh jeez ghost
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm pretty stoked on my new hardware. I think it's really going to help me step it up to a new level.
Sweet pics Bruce! Looks like you had fun up there!
I managed to get some edits done last night, and I think I might have a solution to my sitting issue. The exercise ball works pretty good and promotes good posture. I'm also thinking about getting/building a standing desk.
Saturday was beautiful, decent temps with excellent friction.
Kyle hit up Health Hazard to put a rope up for some TR's
Relic looking rather warm in his vintage puffy.
(Yes, artistic liberties were taken with this photo..)
I literally just missed the light on Yorkshire. More jugging is necessary.
Kyle setting up for the first crux.
Pulling through
He finished it up strong
Twas a gorgeous view from the anchor.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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Nice work all on being the #4 most viewed thread of 2013!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah Big Mike!
After taking almost a month off climbing & working way too much over the holidays it was so great to get out yesterday & today. What a way to start the year, summer is on the way! I'm stoked in more ways than one right now so I'll rant a little.
With it being Smoke bluff bolt clipping season I met up around 1230 today with Unbearded Kyle and never bearded Nina:-) at Ronins left to climb some slabs & arêtes. Wish I had more pics as it was a productive day.
It was A nice little circuit starting with the thin 10a left of astral travels on the far left of Ronin's( sorry don't know the name) which I showed up just in time to run up & drop the rope. While I walked down Kyle jumped on some Barley 10b undercling bulge to a few bolts, way left of Ridgerunner(what's the name?)I tr'ed it & it was fun enough & way better than raw onions. I moved the anchors over to the Barley 10d(anyone?) left of Ridgerunner(same anchor). This route was a rather nagging nemesis of un bearded Kyle of yesterday as well as bearded Kyle of the more distant past. Anyways unbearded Kyle got semi serious for a sec & put it to rest with some classic stinkbuggin that looked like a piece of piss with the moves so fresh in his head.
Nina took off after this & U.B. Kyle wanted more. I suggested that he step it up sack wise & commit to the exciting start of skydancing. This route was something that he had been planning to shave his beard off for for a long time, so after rubbing his unbearded chin for a quick moment he announced that he was ready for what I would say is one of the great SB 5.10s. Heady, varied & such a great line. Anyways he hiked it with little pause outside the highball start & the techy finish. Not an onsite but another new send for unbearded Kyle of 2014. He has had a great year already. I've done skydancing a few times before including a new weenie way yesterday so I skipped it & did Sammy's frog over to the right instead. A new route for me & again, surprisingly fun for 5.10c Barley slab :-)
We were having a blast & the friction was tops so after I talked us out of dreams of passion we went to look for another nemesis that only bearded Kyle had faced before. Unfortunately he had been thwarted. The climb was at P.I.N.K. cliff & was called gender neutral -another 10d slab. Kyle gave me a chance to go again & have an onsite opportunity which all worked out great. Another really nice route: starts with an easy corner that leads to some heinous blank slab for a few bolts. Then some spicy feeling facey type moves with some traversy footwork lead up to the steep head wall at the top center of the cliff, that has cool, actual holds & a fun sequence of moves on nice stone- what a gem.
A true tradmaster that unbearded Kyle is he demanded I remove the clips on the way down so he could have what I guess to him is the joy of hanging them :-)So he did just that & avenged yet another of bearded Kyle's nemesis with little drama & some smart climbing.
It was about 415 or so & we figured we could squeeze in another. It was my call so after quickly talking us out of wankulator, which was brooding off to our right. I instead picked another obscure Barley creation on the far right of split beaver, way around the corner from asleep at the wheel & not far from where we were. There's a shallow, grotty 5.4 chimney with a harder, steep bolted arête on it's left. I always thought It looked cool, but it didn't have hangers for the past 4 or so yrs . when I was out rain running with the dog I noticed some back up there recently. I went for it & It turned out to be a really cool route, fully right hand slapping the arête with a balancy, barndoor feel to it.
Anyhow, I ended up popping a foot & taking a whip with the QD in my hand that i thought I had just put on the 4th bolt lol, when Kyle caught me he was talking about something I can't remember what & anyways Im looking down while falling only to see him getting pulled on his ass across the ground for about 10' . Luckily it was a mellow fall & Kyle didn't get much more than dirty jeans so I took a rest for a bit then a hang up higher before finishing. Barley rolled up & was stoked to see us climbing his routes as well, he had actually just put the hangers back on the other day. We BS'ed with him a bit then Kyle hiked it on TR. All that was left was for me to slip and crash on my ass, blowing my takeout container filled with salad everywhere. Hilarious! Really fun day, I love winter smoke bluff season. There's just so many fun, silly, or awesome routes to do in such a neighborly park setting & they are all pretty great.
What is/was your favorite bluffs route/cliff/circuit?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What is/was your favorite bluffs route/cliff/circuit?
The Smoke Bluff Connection was always a good one. Not that the climbing on those four pitches is necessarily better than any other random four pitches you might do, but it sort of has the feel of being a real climb. Sort of. You know, pitches one above the other so you don't have to drop back to the base of each pitch you climb before you start the next one.
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MH2
climber
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A very Canuck-style rant. Very fun to read. That's a photo I haven't seen before, and had to read the caption before it turned into something recognizable.
I always get a kick out of Centre Street, and Evaporation surprised me, too, when comparing the last time I did it with the time before that. So many many many excellent times to be had on SB routes.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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bluffs faves: old age, cold comfort, where's roxie, the gmb, monkey king?
mostly because they are or were never busy
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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Faves? Hmm.. Burgers and Fries, Mosquito, Penny Lane, Orifice Fish, Flying Circus, Twenty Minute Workout, Centre Street, Climb and Punishment, Partners in Crime, Crime of the Century.
I put a few more images together today from the other day, hope you enjoy!
From Saturday:
Kyle trying to figure out the start of Last Post
Sunday I had a few errands to run in the morning so i didn't meet up with the boys until a bit later.
When i showed up, Grant was slaying Ridgerunner and i took a few shots of the crag before i went around the corner.
It was a gorgeous day at Ronins
Ryan on Ridge Runner, hdr version
Good ol' fashioned 1's and 0's.
Ryan had been wanting to try and combine Mcm with Skydancing, he called it "Weeniedancing".
Ryan on Weeniedancing 10c
Looking up Mcm
Finishing up..
The crowd
looks like we're finally going to get some weather this week! Those of us who like to ski or board are definitely looking forward to that!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Some nice shots Mike! Weenie dancing is a good link up if ur a weenie!
Jim B u actually like red nails?!?! Masochist! I'm with u on the beaver tho, such a great crack.
BK u r right, all kinds of adventure to be had in the little smoke bluffs. What's little feet(feat)?
Hmm fav smoke bluff climbs not yet mentioned........
Skydancing
Neat & cool
The zip
Sunny days in december
Health hazard
Asleep at the wheel
Talking holds
I think all bluffs climbs lose a star in the summer & gain one in the winter. Just something about the stone there climbs so much better when it's cold.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Isn't Little Feet that 10c arete left of Digital Dexterity?
I remember doing that rig with MH2 and again 10 yrs later with Mer the next time it was clean.
It's fun, but it grows a five oclock shadow faster than an East German woman wrestler so it's best to form a line as soon as the retroscrub is finished.
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MH2
climber
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Yup. Thanks to whoever cleaned it just before we got there last time.
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