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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 15, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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Whattup "quelly"! Post up some pics!!
Gregg posts as fishfinder.
Y'all and ur icicles are nuts, although I like lookin at the photos. Temps are perfect at the pet. No crampons are required, although they would probably help.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Quelly- What's up!!
Nice story Brownie! Sounds intense! Glad to hear you got to shred some gnar on your trip.
Nice work Dru! Getting after it early!!
Sandra and i are currently passing through Lytton, after a beautiful Skaha thanksgiving visit.
Here's a couple pics, by the fabulous Phil Tifo from our visit.
Sandra on Granola Bar 5.7
Getting High on Granola!
We also got a chance to hang with Rolf today, which was awesome!
I'll probably get to that, tomorrow.. Hopefully.., lol
Edit- can we drytool at pet?? Lol or would we be summarily shot for such nonsense?....
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Fish Finder
Social climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 04:59am PT
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Hey quelly,
welcome to the skirmish... umm....I mean Squamish thread
Dont be afraid to join in on some of the stupid american threads
The extended visit after the park closed was fun with you and brownie
and yeah ... like ryand said .." Post up some pics!!"
Sweet action BM and Sandra... peace ,love and granola!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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Drytooling at Pet kinda misses the point. Too many natural holds. You need some crag like the Neurotic Climbing Wall hole ladder or Forgotten Wall where you can go chip-to-chip
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Yes Mike, summarily shot. Some would argue that any dry tooling anywhere kinda misses the point but there's probably another thread around here to talk about that kind of stuff :-)
Skaha looks nice.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Forgotten Wall where you can go chip to chip
Hahahaha... Totally! I'm just kidding of course! Skaha was beautiful. A little cold in the shade, but puffy's were made for a reason. Friction was excellent.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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I've heard rumours that Dry tooling at Squish = Cacodemon Boulder the drilled route.
Or else wait for the smears at the Bluffs and the Chief to form. I prefer the warmer climates but are there any good tales about climbing the numerous thin ice smears around the Chief?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:21am PT
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Good question. Anyone ever touch those gnarly smears on opal wall? I know Diedre has at least one successful ascent.
BK has mentioned that Angels Crest is a prime candidate for a mixed ascent mid winter, as my experiences proved last fall. That tale has been retold in the new Alpinist 44, Full Value section, and you'll find it on reputable magazine shelves now.
Here's a sneak peak..
Thanks to Martyr for the photo.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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Nice Big Mike!! Can't wait to check that out!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 17, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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Wow, grats Mike!
Sign my tits!
;-)
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MH2
climber
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Good going, Mike. Really like the Andreas illustration that could be any climbing era and is pitch-perfect The Acrophobes and reminds of watching Sergeant Preston of the Yukon as a kid.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:40am PT
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Hey my granite loving brothers from the north...
Good job on the Alpinist story there Mike.
I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)
A low blow!
But big congratulations to Mike
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 17, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Nicely done Mike! My two years of free subscriptions ran out with 43 so I'm gonna have to bike to the store and buy it like a working class stiff.
Rolf: my introduction to ice climbing was on those thin smears you mention. went to climb Shannon Falls in 96 but there were already around 6 parties on it when we got there. We bouldered around on some thin stuff at what is now AMO Wall and then went and laid siege to a 25 m high slab of verglas at Furry Creek
Stubais were too short to make good clubs though
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Hahahahhahaha! Nice pic Dru! You guys are wacky! ;)
Thanks everyone! I'm pretty stoked! Thanks to Tami for the opportunity and to Matt Samet and Katie Ives for their amazing editing skills, to help this trip report evolve into a true story!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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I haven't got one yet either, although i don't have a subscription, and i'm not even sure they have my address.. Lol. I should probably call the office and find out.. Lol
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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The metric version is still being printed...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 17, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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^^^
It has 1.4 times more pages.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 12:18am PT
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After a beauty lunch at Kozo Cafe, and a brief heckle of T-Mac laying some brick down, I met up with Kyle to go do some rock scampering. We picked up Brownie to come join us but we think he was still a little too disheveled from yesterday's epic solo journey. So Kyle out of nowhere suggested we do Frail Scales. I hell yah'd that one.
It was a little chilly, noisy, and dirty at the bottom of it. The fun climbing up bomber layback flakes made you forget that you were right beside the highway.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I know eh??? Bet ya those motoruses were wonderin who those retarted kooks were up there.
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