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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 03:13am PT
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Sorry this is turning into such a saga, it’s almost over.
You had me hooked the whole way. Such a great tale requires the length to be told properly.
I'm glad my editing was useful :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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glad you guys like my ramble. Hey Bruce... I know for a fact Peder got "employee of the year". It was published in the whistler Question.
I wouldn't write that stuff if it wasn't true. cheers. :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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Another excellent story hammish keep up the fantastic writing.
Jim B; Did you see the video I linked of edge of pan being freed? Do you have any stories of the FA?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Famish, does genius loci climb the last part of the ten years after crack before the dyke heads right toward the pillar?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Pretty sure 'Bear' is Peder Ourums(sp?) nickname, not Peter Croft
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Oh, Yeah! That was great.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Famish
I like that :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Whoops, bloody iPad changing everything I write...it changed dyke to duke too...I'll leave it as famish though, that's kinda fitting...
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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a post-script for the underfling and the free-grand variant
Stoke!
Someone please scrub Los Zapatos, too. It leads right up to Genius Loci pitch 1.
Hamish makes pictures unnecessary but we can put them on this site so we do.
Here is a look at Genius Loci pitch 3 from the side to give an idea of the angle of the rock. The climbers are headed for the Split Pillar. This was the day Hamish and John came running up the Squamish Buttress catching us at the 10c pitch.
Here is Genius Loci pitch 3 seen from a distance on a rare occasion when people were on it. In the first picture the leader is in the vicinity of the crux crack. Then the second comes up.
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Really enjoyed reading this thread, its great to see photos of so many familiar faces. I thought I would join and contribute a couple photos myself.
My buddy Luke gets his ninja on at the 'Neat and Cool' crag. Cody Tuttle photo.
a project on the lower north walls. Chris Christie photo.
Met Zac in the campground, and he decided to try u-Wall. He casually onsghted the entire route, then did the same 'Freeway' the same day.
U-Wall again, this time its Tony Mclane cruising up P1.
This is what happens when it dries up in the winter, you stick to everything. putting up a new route at Penny Lane.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Great postings Hamish - how about your Humpty Dumpty solo ?
The vid of Sunday TRotter freeing the Edge of Pan is unreal, cool how his palming, slapping, tickling, and pushing techniques fire up when the holds run out, now we know how it's done.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Welcome, Marc - it's great how younger climbers are adding their bit here, carrying on from the Squamish Silverbacks Society posts. Your film the other night was great.
I liked the famish=hamish conversion.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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Marc, you climbed with Zac?!?!? He is the hardman of oz (where I'm from)...probably one of the better trad climbers in the sea of bolt clippers in the Blue Mountains. Zac has balls of steel, of which I'm sure you've seen ;)...
BTW, respect for your free attempts (and hopeful success) on temptation, that is audacious!
Nick
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Come on Marc elaborate on your afternoon jaunt up freeway, we'ed love to hear how it went!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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In the middle of moving I came across this photo I clipped from a Metolius catalogue. It's my friend Andreas Taylor in fine form on The Left Side.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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So i thought i'd post a few of my photos and see if anyone else has anything to share!
So said Big Mike in post #1. He pushed this thread off the ground, probably not knowing where it was going to go. Thanks to all who have added to it and welcome to Marc who may be young in years but has put years into climbing. Check out his repeat of Grand Wall free.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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hamish!! Yowllzz!
Gripping typing laddie, about a gripping climb.
I had to read your stories twice, the second time with a drink in hand.
Splendid, just splendid!
Thanks to everyone for the the follow up and fine photos.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Wow.. Welcome to all the new readers and lurkers alike!
Marc- Nice pics man! Bruce Lee Vs the Kiss Army is cool I've never seen anyone on it. What's that new slab route at penny lane rated? Luke showed me it the other day.. Looks hard!
mh2- I had no idea where this was going... The truth is Climbing at Squamish in the 1970's was kinda fizzling out and I still wanted to hear more tales and see more pretty pictures, so I thought maybe if I shared some of my pictures I might spark a few memories.. I can't believe what it's become and am stoked every day I get to read something new.
Nice pictures of Genus loci!
Hopefully I have some time to edit a couple new photos for you guys soon.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 21, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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What is it with all the liebacking in these shots?
I share your pain Greg. Liebacking on anything steeper than about 75 degrees should be illegal. But what can you do? Ever since Kevin published that photo of Keith F*#king Reid on the Pillar, you can't call yourself a Squamish climber unless you've got huge muscles and can lieback overhanging pencil edges.
Feh!
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