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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 12, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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I'm too lazy to dig up the Chehalis/Chilliwack peaks thread right now but it's prime conditions on Slesse NE butt right now...
11! people on the route yesterday (2 bivied on the ledge and 9 in-a-dayers) and some more up there today.
We made it from the cars to the start of Crossover walkoff yesterday, bivied and finished the walk out today.
North Rib access across the glacier seems impassible right now.
Mind blowing to think that Micro Marc soloed this and the north rib both in a single day in July.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 12, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?
nope, bivi ledge is bone dry, it's the last bit of sun on route on the day circa 3 pm
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 15, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Bump for a beautiful day in Squamish, get some while there's still some to get!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Hello, hello.
Calling Squish......
Anyone awake?
Everyone still hung over?
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2013 - 04:22am PT
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From a stellar day last Wednesday on the Grand Wall with Brad Ward, and Will Stanhope (taking the shot from above).
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 18, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Nice work Wayne.
By the way, that cedar is getting huge!
Back in 76 it was barely a shrub.
Wonder if it'll eventually pry the Pillar off?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 18, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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Well I'm pretty sure Jim Brennan is itching to get up there with a saw and prevent that from happening.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 18, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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I imagine future climbers of the 2100s will fondly grapple their way up the prosthetically molded replacement Pillar with their gecko suits on and feel very old school indeed
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Wayno- It was an Honour sir. Gear is gear. Once you know how it functions, it's all the same. Nice work by the way! Excellent off the couch climbing!
Hi Hamie! Nice to hear from ya! What's new?
I had lots of fun at the Psyche Ledge party. Many great conversations were had that night, the food was great and the set up was spot on! The many puzzled looks of the pad people walking around us was quite amusing.
Lots of great company and good times were had. Special thanks to Wayno for the amazing Carne Asada and Jim Brennan for bringing his "Q", plus running the whole darn show from beginning to end! Thanks also to Nina for her lovely pulled pork and Kyle for bringing his portable table!
Thanks also to everyone for attending and making it such a great time! What a great legacy to revive Perry! I think you have a hit!
I've been crazy busy lately so I haven't had a chance to get to my pics, but i have a couple from cragging on Saturday with Sandra Mari and Wayno.
Mari wanted to check out Cabin Boys Office, so we strolled up there
Mari on Ziggity Zags 10a
Wayno on belay.
Sandra got her redpoint on Laughing Crack, and then Nina joined us and we changed venues to High Cliff.
Nina on 20 Minute Workout 10b
She got the redpoint.
We did a couple more routes, and then joined Dave and Mari for a tasty beverage. Thanks for that guys! Thanks for the book Dave! It will be perfect reading material for Yosemite!
Nice work on the Grand Wayne! I can't wait to get back up there! Next spring. For sure.
That tree better not pry the Pillar off before i get to redpoint it! I'll be pissed!! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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The valiant and lovely cedar over from the base of the Split Pillar should be left alone, and indeed cherished. It has succeeded, in a harsh environment, and is little threat to the Pillar - despite the beliefs of some. It's well to the side of the base of the Pillar, and when it eventually falls, it seems unlikely to cause problems. Even if it did, so what?
It may be only the latest of a succession of shrubs there, taking root, slowly growing, and eventually being destroyed by ice or rock fall, accumulation of snow and ice on the branches, or simply getting too big. That's the life of the Chief, which is bigger than any of us.
The Pillar itself, and the flake systems above it, are in any case temporary in geological and perhaps even human terms. The Pillar is detached, except at the top, with its base sitting in a sort of niche. It expands, as do most of the nearby connected flake cracks. Undoubtedly elastic release, earthquakes, frost heaving, and heat expansion/contraction are real threats to it. A small tree some metres to the side, in a separate crack, pales in comparison to these.
The Pillar will eventually fall - get over it! It's not the only classic hand crack in Squamish. Don't the already over-zealous logger/climbers have something better to do, or do they want to go out in a blaze of ignominy? BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree, and you could hardly blame them. Cheap vandalism.
In my view, it would be an act of egotistical vandalism to damage let alone remove that tree.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2013 - 02:49am PT
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Squamish will be the scene of my comeback, if there is such a thing. There is something really cool about climbing there that I can't find the words to express. Actually I can, but I don't want to piss anyone off.;)
How did Luke's and Aislinn's wedding go? Any pics? Congratulations you two.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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Yes, I can climb today Bruce, meet me at the second pullout and we can do Running man on gear.
All kidding aside, why for art thou unable to climb from here on in?
Operation? Trip? Hand modelling contract?
As an arborist I can assure you Thuja plicata is a very resilient species and it's growth will slow to match the resources available. It will be there for a long time to come unless our climate changes, the pillar removes it or it contracts Didymascella thujina or Jimella brennani.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 19, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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What you guys don't realize is that the Pillar alreadyfell off, during the February 2001 earthquake.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1545/1
American climbers were panicked.
Some guy from Ontario even called up Murray at Climb On to ask if the GW was still climbable.
Thanks to the amazing skills of the Squamish Climbers Society, the prosthetic replacement for the Pillar that was emplaced very soon afterwards has successfully fooled most climbers into thinking that nothing ever fell off.
The original pillar was taken to the quarry next to the Bluffs parking lot and sawn up into granite counter tops for yuppies.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 19, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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Young guys don't divide their life into decades.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Young guys don't divide their life into decades.
Young guys can actually remember what happened in what decade.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 20, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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Young guys can actually remember what happened in what decade.
Really easy to do when only one or two really count.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 20, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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You could be right Lurky it's been a while since I was last up there although (yellow cedar) is usually at higher elevations. They have also been reclassified to the Cupressaceae family so it's now Cupressus nookatensis. This reclassification comes with the same controversy we see on this thread daily, surprise, surprise. People are people so why should it be..............
I will look more closely next time I'm lurking up there.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2013 - 10:37am PT
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I made comment on how much the cedar at the base of the Pillar had grown in my time and offered oblique and uninformed speculation as to whether it might eventually assist the Pillar in it's ultimate arrival at the base of the Grand.
I didn't suggest or advocate the tree's (or The Pillar's) removal.
Then we receive an all to familiar pedantic polemic (complete with biased aspersions against forestry workers with a weakness for rock climbing) and are reminded that although every other piece of vegetation on the Chief is open game in the name of benevolently making more moderate rock available to the masses, the cedar at the base of the Pillar is both valiant and nigh sacrosanct.
Reminds me of the Golden Spruce and it's demise at the hands of a man driven mad by mass hypocrisy.
Perry the Logger
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 20, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Haha Perry, I don't think any of us are even remotely considering actually chopping the tree. I only brought it up for the troll's amusement. It appears that I have succeeded.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 20, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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I don't think it will be merch for another 20 years or so anyways
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