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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You want light ?
As long as it ain't Coors Light. Or Bud Light.
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MH2
climber
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"Sometimes the mountaineer must adopt the attitude of the cow and chew the cud."
~ Paul Petzoldt
My own attitude on renaming routes comes from long ago at the Gunks where the most complicated it could get was a link of two other climbs:
Travels with Charley
Strictly from Nowhere
and it was called Travels/Strictly by my friends at the time. In the latest guide, I see that you can link 3 climbs.
The name of a climb is a lot less important to me now than it was then, but back then the name of the climb almost was the climb. The name had a supernatural talismanic power. Well, maybe it did, if it wasn't called Puff 'N' Grunt chimney, but called the Crack of Doom, instead.
Routes that are up to 30-some pitches, close to other such routes, and have long histories of aid and free ascents could present naming challenges.
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/05/yosemite-climbing/graphic/img_2011all.png
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Squamish stoke
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah, Squamish stoke!
Ghosts shot contrasts Andy's view from above quite nicely. What a pretty climb.
I stole this photo on the interweb of me that some Internet user "Kyle" had posted. Thanks "Kyle", from the Internet.
I'd like to make the psyche but gotta work & won't be in Squamish till the witching hour to see who's up still. Hopefully we'll see ya!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Last time I saw Wayne he was putting up a rope.
David, I think Wayne has his wife's cell phone. That is why he is ignoring your toiletface.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Just talked to Wayno, he's got the Carne Asada ready for grilling. We told Jim we're gonna try and be there around six to set up, so come on down any time after that.
I took Wayno out to the Smoke Bluffs yesterday, and sicked him on Clean Starts which he dispatched with glee.
Then we headed down to Burgers and found a bunch of the gang down there.
After suitable preparation i sent him up Burgers and Fries. (See relics pic)
Wayno rapping off Burgers
It was quite the sunset.
Wayno at the top
Stoked to see everyone tonight!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Just back from Psyche Ledge.
What a treat to have been there with so many wonderful people.
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MH2
climber
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Second the emotion.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Great time at Psyche Ledge last night.
A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.
So good to see everyone who made it.
I think this event is a keeper and worthy of putting time and effort into again next year.
Regards,
PB
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah, thanks Perry & everyone. Sorry I missed a bunch of you guys but I guess it was past ur bedtimes when I got there :-)
Still got to meet Jim B, Harry, & Wayno- all rad dudes. As well, the Cormier brothers, Ais, Mike, Sandra, Perry & a few others were still there suffering from various degrees of libation which was nice too. Next year it should finish with the hungover exasperator toprope speed comp on the Sunday.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.
Wayne and Nina also had a hand in the hosting, and deserve much thanks.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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True that!
Thanks Wayne and Nina!
Good to see you Dave!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Yes it was a great evening. Thanks Jim, Wayno and Perry. I agree it's a keeper as an annual event. I like Ryan's idea for the hangover toprope comp the next day.Great to reconnect with Tami, Dave, Andy, Anders and finally meet Ryan, Nathan, Wayno, Luke's bro and Big Jim( who told me a great story about his first mountain climb he ever did with some storm trooper German that lived as a hermit around Powell river). Bruce where were you? I wanted to see you and Tami arm wrestle.
The icing on the cake was getting a copy of Alpinism 43 to take home, thanks Tami.
Squamish is such an awesome place.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Squamish is such an awesome place.
In so many ways.
If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.
I need to thank all the locals for such a great weekend. I would try to name them but I wouldn't want to miss anyone.
The biggest thanks to Big Mike. Burgers and Fries was tasty. After not staying up with all the new gear and techniques, he has been a mentor, in the most humble way.
Tami, I can't wait to dig into the Alpinist 43. Thanks. It was great meeting Phil, I wish we could have talked more.
Jim made the day with the grill, the table and the generator and tunes. And the hand-truck. No-one had to carry coolers of ice.
I could go on and on but I'll just leave it with an, "Ill be back".
Wayno.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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A nice reclean at the Gobsmack, before the Psyche festivities. Great party guys. Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids. The tacos were killer. Thanks for the mag Tami!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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So how did Kyle and Nathan do on Freeway on Sunday? Any pics?
I talked to Yerian today and told him about the party and he gives his deepest regards to all his Squamish friends. He sounded like he is in bad need of a Squamish fix.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Kyle and I had a great, albeit lengthy time on Freeway.
We got a pretty early start, but not early enough to be the first party on route. Luckily, the two guys in front informed us that this would be the absolute peak of their leading limit and offered us to go first, as they might be slow. If they happen to read this - much appreciated!
I led the first pitch. It was hard. For anyone whose only .11a climbs are the two on the Grand and any in the Bluffs, this thing is a brutally rude warm up. Two definite crux sections, each protected by a bolt. I fell once at each one. Still the best I've done on it (third time climbing that pitch).
I linked it with Daylight Crack to get some space between us and the other guys. Three cams for that second half.
Kyle sent the traverse, thought it was soft for .10b. I thought it was harder than the one on Ultimate Everything. I started the dihedral, couldn't commit to the crux until I took a hang and got a nut in. Belayed on gear from the partway ledge due to rope drag. Kyle finished the rest of the pitch, would have got the OS but he was too short to reach a crucial lock and the left leg is in a strenuous position. I managed to follow clean on TR, which I was stoked on, as my first time up I botched the sequence horribly and hung the whole way up.
Kyle then took us up to the Truck Stop, very gracefully onsighting the 50 meter .11a corner pitch. I also got it clean with much effort.
After a rest, I went to go through the roof, but was reaching with the wrong hand and fell a couple times. French Freed a bunch of it just due to impatience, as I had to hitch hike back to the city once we were down and didn't want to be too late. I got better beta now though so should be okay for next time. Kyle got it clean with one fall at the start.
Now was where it got messy. Kyle started around the Autobahn traverse, but instead of going up once around the corner, he went directly across to a different anchor. Communication was pretty much non existent. I just waited until he had taken me tight and gave a couple tugs on the rope before I started. I hadn't had enough to drink and my arms were seizing up in a violent way. I had to hang on the first piece of gear and spend about 15 minutes shaking out. Once I made it around the corner, I went from following to leading and finished up the pitch at the proper anchor.
It was about 430 at this point. Kyle's confidence was shaken due to the slight epic he had just had, and I was worried that my arms would lock up in the middle of a hard pitch. Neither of us wanted to climb another .11. I led up the .10c without cramping, but then instead of going up the .11a corner, we detoured over to the right to the chimney pitch on Milk Road.
I led that, and could barely pull up our tagline without my upper body seizing. I have never experienced anything like that, and it was extremely frustrating. Kyle then went back over to the final pitch on Freeway and finished it up clean (.10d). I pulled on the bolts.
Nina was awesome, meeting us partway up the trail with water. When we got down, I had to run back up to the base and grab my shirt which I had jettisoned from the first pitch. Kyle gave me a ride to the intersection at Shannon Falls, where I managed to get a ride home.
I can't wait to get back on it. I was so beat I almost slept through my alarm Monday morning and could barely move at work. Definitely bringing more water next time.
Also - had an excellent time at the Psych Ledge party. Had some great chats with Tami, met a couple people for the first time (Peder Ourom - legend! and Harry) which was awesome.
Wish it was more than a once a year event.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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We got back to Seattle last night after spending a few extra days in Squamish. Too bad for me that I had to work for about half the time. But Mari got out for a good day with Mike and Sandra. She brought them back for a visit at the end of the day, so I at least got a bit of second-hand climbing -- and to spend some time with a pair of really nice people.
I finally finished work at about 1:00 pm on Sunday and we decided to use the afternoon for a combination of exercise, exploration, and climbing. Hiked to a recently discovered crag called The Centurion, somewhere up in the back end of nowhere behind the Conroy Creek road. There's one route so far -- six pitches of bolts to 10b.
First pitch looks like this:
View from the belay at the top of that pitch
It was late enough that we only climbed one more pitch, a mostly chossy affair which opened the door to what looked like some very nice rock above.
A pretty place, with great views, but if you decide to go there, take your 4X4 and drive all the way to the end of the road. The trail from there is quite pleasant, but hiking the road is tedious and time-consuming.
Anyway, thanks to all who showed up at the Psyche Ledge affair - and particularly to JB, Wayno, and Nina who put the work in. It was a treat to see old friends, and to meet some ST posters (and lurkers) for the first time.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice pics Bruce, good to see Kevin is still in the thick of it. I went up there once with Sig Isaac back in the last century and though it was great other than the bushwhack. That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 12, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
When Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson and I made the first forays up that wall we found a fairly clean line. We bushwhacked in, climbed (I think) three or four pitches, maybe up to moderate 5.10, and went home. Never went back (there were endless new projects back then).
I'm sure that some of the cracks and corners on the routes up there now had to be grubbed out, but if a 30-year-old memory means anything, I think it was at least a little bit less bushy than the Chief.
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