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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Good effort Nate & Brownie. I'm glad u at least threw some pants on, I'm guessing Brownie didn't tho:-)



So what's the prerequisites for pipeline in Squamish (aka how do u get ready for this thing)??

-Beaver
-tantalus crack
-good chimney at the top of sunset strip
-chimney on parallel passages
-few days at cirque of uncrackables
-hypertension


Any others??
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
I can see Tantalus crack being useful. Boogie probably. Everything else would be too narrow or too wide. It's not a chimney, it's full on awfulwidth. After the bolt, it gets a bit wider, to the point where someone really tiny might get in there.
I'm not that bright, so I'm looking to go back once my elbow and ankle heal up. Prepare properly next time. Might have been able to make it a bit further if I didn't feel like I was going to grind my foot off.
If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?

No thanks. But if you're looking for practice, The Scimitar (just a bit left of Boogie) could go on your list.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side might be a good warm-up.
MH2

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
No doubt you've seen it, but

http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/offwidths/episode5.html
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 29, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Way to go guys. It's clear the way to prepare for pipeline is a pipeload. I also have a #5 and #6 that I'd be willing to lend out for the next round plus I have one of these suits.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Hahaha I like how the recommends for pipeline training are many atl 5.11 while pipeloads itself is what 10c??

I'll go up there with u in a few weeks Nathan, once I'm feeling better & for sure if Harry's suit is a 34.

I bet MH2 has done it, anyone else??
MH2

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
I bet MH2 has done it

Ha, ha! I've rapped down beside it so I'm not afraid of it, but the 'closest' I've come is a partner who has the gear for it and says we should get on it.

I'd like to thank Soloclimber for having the experience I have always imagined on that route.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Is that Robo unplugged? I think he had a wide fetish for a while, according to him its pretty good :)
thesiger

climber
Aug 4, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Is this the right thread to big up Alpinist #43 - the Squamish focus edition? Beautifully-crafted central article by Tami, nicely intertwining her parents experience of mountaineering here before the road was built with all sorts of other time shifts and perspectives (*). Great Slab Alley piece by Anders too.


* well maybe slightly too polite to our local casino/ electronic signboard operators in the last but one paragraph for my taste ... but that's detail.


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 5, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Heads up, somebody died today in Squamish in a climbing accident. SAR not back yet, no name released
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Aug 5, 2013 - 02:27am PT
Sad, very unfortunate. Relic and I were beneath the North Walls and heard the heli, as well as saw the SAR team in the main parking lot. Thought it was just another regular long weekend epic.
Very sorry to hear that.
c-plus

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Aug 5, 2013 - 02:27am PT
dang that's terrible. i saw a chopper doing a long line recovery around 8.
my condolences to all involved...
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 5, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
The news says it was a hiker that fell off the top of first peak. What's first peak? I don't speak hiking trail. How the f*#k do you fall off the top of the Chief?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 5, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
BK!

This is starting to sound familiar. Are u bored? Should we start a new thread for Anders?


You did remind me however that Anders & myself lost a bet & owe some $ to the access society. What was it again? $50 ? Can't remember.Anders?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 5, 2013 - 01:39pm PT

Bruce you know damn well thissiz a hot button topic and has raised blood pressures to the boiling point.

Are people still revved up over this?


And sorry to hear about the hiker.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 5, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Sounds like she fell from Bellygood.

No name yet.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/story/2013/08/05/bc-squamish-chief-death.html
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 5, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
I read the comments in Oplo's link above, and yup, someone has already called for safety ropes across "that ledge."
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 5, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Perhaps it was a lost or misled hiker, on the approaches to Bellygood?

There are also places on the upper part of the south summit trail where if you stray off it, you could quickly get into difficulties, not always readily apparent. More or less where the traverse off from the top of the Roman Chimneys gets to the forest.

#6,000, for Big Mike.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 5, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Yikes, this is terrible news re: falling off bellygood. Condolences to family & friends.


Bruce, hoping to head up there in a few weeks. Any word on how beat in that trail is? Should i bring the machete? I'll give u a shout for some beta before we go. Cheers.
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