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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I think Hamish is on to something.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey BM
It's good to see you are out and about on the rocks again.
But.......I thought that you said, back in the fall, before your snowboarding accident, that you were going to wear a helmet for rockclimbing. Am I wrong about this? Again?
Most people here in the West Koots wear a helmet, or 'helmut' as some STers prefer, but then we live in the sticks!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I think Mike the big sweaty bastard would have gone blind from helmut sweat if he had one on.
Was a fun day indeed. Got in a Grand Wall boulder sesh, followed by a pity call up to the poor suckas up on Humpty Dumb Tee. I saw very little movement on the portaledge, like roasting carcasses. Met up later with Kyle and Nathan for a nighmare rock joint venture with Perry and Nadine.
Good sweaty times.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Relic it was great to hear you had a good outing with the indomitable Big Mike and a'll but we don't need to hear about what went on after.
Looking solid Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Helmut sweat??
Uh....yikes!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Groan... Lol nice one Harry.
Hamie! You are absolutely correct of course. Somehow my twisted logic allowed me to think i didn't have to wear it on top rope... Which is of course not correct, as there are still plenty of risks which can be mitigated by wearing it.. As well as setting a good example for others.
We saw Beer can Al yesterday, working on his new project next to Rambles.
We also stopped by the Casino to check out Nate and Kyle's progress on the Sherrifs Badge.
Nate and Kyle chiling at the base of The Daily Planet.
I was way too tired this morning to get up so we decided to go swimming instead.
It was roasting here today!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I saw king can Al yesterday & was quite concerned as he was drinking a can of coke instead of the usual Molson Canadian. Hopefully everything is ok...
Are u sure that's the base of the daily planet & not a different planet? Looks like they landed on the super moon in that pic? What happened after they chilled at the base??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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It was cool in the high country!
We were wearin' puffy jackets up at Athelstan
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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Well, Kyle led the 12a corner with 4 takes and one whip. I'm pretty impressed he even ventured up it!
Nice pic Dru! Looks fun up there!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's awesome, good work lurker Kyle!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, I took a rather large whip on QuickDraw down below off literally the last move before the anchor, and lost confidence in leading the Planet. We continued up anyways, and there was a party of three there at the base just taking turns leading the first pitch. We hung and shot the sh#t with them for the better part of an hour before Kyle decided that if he didn't attempt it, he'd kick himself for the rest of the day. He did really good on it too, and probably could have done better if '.12a' wasn't so intimidating. He destroyed though, with a full onsight of QuickDraw and then that go at the Planet. By the time he hit the anchors we were in full sun, so I just told him to thread the chains so we could get out of there.
Definitely boosted my confidence watching him do it, and I look forward to getting back up there.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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You're welcome! I wish i didn't have to deal with politics first....
I need to go say hi to Robin anyways. You can't get away from politics, no good deed goes unpunished!
Now that I am a Penticton local, I am amazed how well community standards outweigh personal bolting styles here. I have even added bolts on some of my new projects, after well directed input from local climbers.
No one owns the stone! As much as I respect Robin and consider him a friend, he creates routes to be climbed by the community, which has a right to expect a minimum standard.
His anchors are constantly being replaced in Skaha, and I would not hesitate to replace what I felt were substandard anchors. His routes are not ground up traditional test pieces! To quote Peter Croft “ It’s sport climbing, it’s not supposed to be dangerous”.
My opinion, “Replace all the suspect anchors first, and then list routes on public forums which use staples as protection.” Beginners, especially those climbing in the heavily trafficked areas, deserve to know what they are getting into, perhaps if the staple routes turn into TR routes there may be pressure to replace them.
I also spoke with Robin and John Howe on this issue, John insists that Robin has never supplied any technical / scientific data on his staple installation. Until I see supporting data, I would not advise anyone to consider them comparable to 3/8” stainless steel expansion bolts. In the past I have supported Robin’s practices out of respect for his contribution to the community, after moving here to Skaha, I think consensus should dictate bolting practices.
There are many climbers that have worked on a political level, volunteered for rescue, and contributed as much as Robin to guarantee our continued safe use and access to Squamish, The Bluffs and Skaha. They deserve as much of a voice as the first ascensionists.
Rolf Rybak
CASBC
Regional Director BC Interior
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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Something in the bulletheads?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nope, so funny though how I thought the staples were endangered the other day & now today they were all over the place!!
I like Rolf's post.
Me n' Kieran were scared of the light after being demoralized by the sun & its energy sapping qualities the past few days. so we did a route named after this feeling called Photophobia up at the Klootch buttress.
It offered some fun steep climbing & wonderful shady conditions for a hot, sunny day.
Brownie took the first pitch, some rambly ledgy climbing led up to a steep corner with nice jamming.
I led the second pitch & linked it with supposed crux third pitch, it started with a steep easy wide crack & led to a steeper corner system which culminates with a transfer into a steeper corner system to a nice ledge belay.
After this Kieran took us up the fourth pitch, a fun corner which he linked with the fifth, a slab with three bolts & possibly the technically hardest moves on the route. It was nice to climb this route in 3 long pitches before rapping off.
We still had plenty of daylight to fear so we headed over to the pet wall which was lovely in the afternoon shade. Kieran redpointed the Pheasant & I did the same to elastic man.
There were 2 things that happened at Murrin though that were amazing. First we saw the most sunburnt kid we had ever seen hanging out with his family by the lake, when I say sunburnt, this is a gross understatement. This was next level.
The second was the man we met who accepted the blackwater challenge. Me n a few friends have a running joke where we put an imaginary amount of $$ together every time we are at pet for whoever will make it up blackwater when it is a slimy waterfall. Obviously nobody ever accepts, i think we had the pot @ $45 one time. Well today as a joke these dudes asked what it was & I said "$10 if u send it today", to my amazement one of the dudes sez " I'll give it a burn" lol the whole wall is dry except for blackwater so we negotiate the terms he will get 3 hangs, well obviously he took a lot more than that & a few whippers too but to my amazement he got to the top. F*#king champion, he had never even been on it before!
After that show we headed to the grand wall boulders & got too stoned to climb but bouldered a bit anyway which was interesting then I met up with the wife & dog & headed to brohm for the first swim of the year in the final rays of sun. After that a Tbone was prepared, accompanied by a glass of cheap red someone left at my house to wrap up a most excellent day off in beautiful Squamish where I am currently being devoured by the couch.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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One month till I'm in Squamptonia. You guys are keeping the stoke alive!
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MH2
climber
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It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!
Ryan, Blackwater must get enough traffic to have killed vegetation on the hand and footholds. Bare rock still has reasonable friction when it's wet. But I never tested that on 5.12 or on rock where the holds might be covered in slimy chalk. Good for that guy!
Also avoiding the sun, last Sunday:
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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There has been a rockfall on the Apron, from somewhere near the end of the second pitches of Sickle and Over the Rainbow. It may have occurred on July 1st, and at least one perched block remains.
B.C. Parks has closed the area affected, including the trails leading to all climbs on the central Apron, and all climbs from Diedre to Banana Peel - Diedre, White Lightning, Sickle, Over the Rainbow, Sparrow, and Banana Peel, and the routes and variations between them. All are exposed to further rockfall, especially their lower areas. B.C. Parks is apparently assessing the hazard, and appropriate measures.
See http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4535 for more.
Here is a photo of the perched block. It's amazing that little tree stopped it! It's unclear whether the rockfall originated there, just above (between the two overhangs on Sickle), or perhaps from the big ledge at the end of the second pitch. There was a large rockfall from this area in the 1960s.
Apparently it's OK to climb routes on the south Apron, approaching via the Slab Alley trail and the Slab Alley or Pineapple Peel start. That is, the Groove, Slab Alley, Pineapple Peel, and Banana Peel and A Troll's Sonnet, coming into the latter two from the right, and avoiding their first two+ pitches.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Word is death block is now gone from Apron.
No idea if it squashed a Lexus on the highway or if somebody sunk some staples into it and longlined it off...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!
Good to be back on the rock! Now about that front page... Lol
Thanks for the post Ryan! Very nice. Looks like fun up there.
We're hanging at murrin today. See if u can figure out where..
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