Squamish Photos and Stories

O.k.,hope this isn't too long. Sorry if that's the case.

The first pitch of genus-loci took 7 bolts and 11 attempts. Some days were pretty disheartening as we couldn't make it to the bolt we’d drilled the day before.

It was Peder and I working on this pitch and the Bear was in his element; less than vertical and keep your weight on your feet. I think he took the first try and managed to fire in the first two bolts without too much hassle. His arms were bigger than the drill, so he didn't have too much trouble operating it above his head.

I remember getting pretty flustered trying to gain some decent stance to drill the third or fourth bolt Nothing much for your feet there but a nice diagonal rail for your fingers. I got a hook to stick, but only for a pull at 4 or 5 o'clock. Pull straight down and the hook just falls off.

I wrestled a couple slings onto the hook and put my foot in it. Out I'd stem, sort of, right foot in the sling, left foot on the face, hold on to that rail with the left hand, and start hauling/drilling that bolt with the right. Not too bad. Completely thrashed from that bolt placement, we left for the day.

I'm pretty sure the next time we tried, neither of us could even get back to that bolt. Days later we were back for more thrills. Peder climbs right up there and is just cruising. We can both see an obvious ledge, of sorts, coming up and we've convinced ourselves we'll be standing on that perch drilling the next bolt. Unfortunately it's a ways up a faint corner to get there. The Bear starts making his way up, climbing as well as ever, pretty run out but he's holding it together like a champ. Oh yah, this is what we came for.

Suddenly he stops and contemplates his position. "too runout, downclimbing!", he said, cool but concerned. Oh man, I'm thinking this is not looking very good at all. It's going to be Bears in space and it's looking like at least 30 or 40 feet. I'm looking at my belay and thinking how rough this could be and somehow he pulls it off. He downclimbed to the previous bolt and lowered off.

I figure if he could downclimb that then I could. I went up, lucked out and got right up to Peder's spot. Then I got pretty scared and thought about downclimbing, but didn't think I could pull it off. I set my sights on that little perch and plowed up there. By the time I mantled up onto that hold, it was feeling quite runout. I hauled the drill and hammer up and managed to sink that lovely little 3/8 in there. Phew.

The next bolt I got to hang off a nice size left hand hold and even have a couple of crappy cams or r.p.s in behind. If I'd actually weighted those pieces, I was pretty sure they'd just rip out. A little higher it blanked out except for one little nub coming out of the rock. I could see it but boy, was it up there a ways. Will Stanhope, where were you? I suppose 21 years ago Will wasn't very tall either. I recall being on some fair holds and launching up the slab for that little nub. I missed it and took a lengthy fall. That was it for another day.

I'm quite sure our next attempt ended poorly; couldn't even get to our high point. Oh well, good things take time and we were convinced this would be a classic. I guess it's not a classic (as it turns out) but we sure got our money's worth.

Our next time hiking up I remember thinking it was a waste of time taking a haul line up with me on my first go. As if I was making it all the way back up to the sixth bolt. We talked and figured I may as well go prepared, just in case.

I led on double ropes, both clipped through each draw. This way if I actually made it, I could potentially pull one of them through all the clips and drop it down for Peder to tie on the drill and hammer.

Meanwhile, he has me on belay on the other rope, still through all the clips. Oh yah, we always had a plan. To both our surprise and shock, I made it, first try, right back up there. I couldn't believe it, here I was, back up at this massive reach, a little runout. Crazy, but typing this in, my hands are sweating, 21 years later. Things got a little tense for a bit.

Anyway, I gave it everything I had and launched for that little nub. Got it! Damn, I got it! I quickly mantled up on it before soaking in the distance to the last bolt. Now I'm standing all on my right foot, because that's about it for holds, and my leg is shaking.

Oh mumma, the thought of standing on the right toe and pulling one rope through all those clips, getting the Bear the end, hauling that crap all the way up there, then keeping it together to actually drill the bolt, was overwhelming. I'll see if I can make my sentences shorter on the next stream of consciousness. :)

I only had 10 or 15 feet till the belay ledge but that last bolt was so far beneath me. I remember thinking if I didn't get a bolt in there, no one would ever do the route. Then I recall thinking what a massive fall it would be if I blew it. I'm just balanced there, on that right toe, and it's shaking; of course. Like our 8 yr old son said the other day...AWKWARD! I guess this was more of what we came for.

The Bear took me off with the one rope, I pulled it all the way through those clips, he tied the drill and hammer on and away I hauled, teeth and hand. My poor leg just kept on shaking throughout the ordeal but somehow I managed to pull it off. Now that I clipped my good lead rope through the bolt, my leg mysteriously stopped shaking. Funny how that goes. I blasted the last 10 or 15 feet, which felt very easy, what with that bolt there. Huge relief for both of us. I really loved that about climbing, the mental burn combined with the physical challenge.

I'm very sorry if that was too long; I'm completely new at this.