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RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 10, 2013 - 12:41pm PT

And ryand bouldered! bwahaha of course i did kieran, thats what ur supposed to do after climbing multi pitch, before i bouldered yesterday as brownie stated in such a proud manner we actually got on a route called squeamishness out left of the squaw & it definitely didn't disappoint. 5 varied pitches of physical climbing.

Didn't get any pics of pitch one which climbed a bunch of flakes & a mantel onto a stump before moving left via face moves.

Here's josh following pitch 2 which climbs a vertical corner to a improbable face traverse which looks blank from below but isn't too bad, then u get to some scary flakes up a steep finger crack.

Pitch 3 is the alleged crux, climbing up a nice, steep layback before a cryptic face move left past a bolt takes u up a strenuous layback.

Pitch 4 is the physical crux for sure, I was redlining by the top of this one. More physical, steep corner climbing with really varied movement. Stemming, laybacking, & some wierdness leads to a rest before you have to do battle with a steep groove. I felt like I was bouldering on this section since you are just hugging slopers at one point with kneebars & all sorts of thuggery.

Once you can enter the groove it's burly hand jams all the way to the anchor, a great challenging pitch.

Best of all you get to finish with 40m of straight in, splitter 5.9 crack climbing 500 feet above the forest. This is probably the best pitch of 5.9 I've done at Squamish that I can remember. Take penny lane & mix it with the $ pitch on st vitus & put it up high & yep that's it. Hero hand jams to the top where we high fived with a team onsight.

So yep klootch buttress delivers the goods, I'd recommend this route for anyone who's up for some varied, steep, physical crack climbing.

After we went bouldering in the north walls with relic until we had west Nile for sure then relocated to the grand wall boulders & messed around for a few hrs with controlled substances & heel hooks. Saw Kyle, Kieran & Nina who were also out climbing in the bulletheads. Fun day.

Oh,

I also heard a giant was spotted in the smoke bluffs.

browniephoto

climber

Jun 10, 2013 - 12:52pm PT

cloggin Duh feed with RyanD

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 10, 2013 - 01:10pm PT

Cloggin the feed with bolted cracks! what's with the bolt in the corner u guys climbed in that 4th photo. WTF?! there's gear everywhere, i cant believe you guys climbed that sport route, i'm a go up there and choppy it up right now before i go bouldering i'm so mad at all those bolted crack bolters ruining it fer everyone!

edit, cool photo's maybe this threads got some life in it still! I just thought everyone started mountain biking.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT

Nice work boys!! Out of bounds that spot looks amazing!

I'm so jealous i don't get to go have fun with everyone...

I heard Kyle and Nathan did White Lightning yesterday too....

Sandra and i wandered up to Ronins yesterday.

After assuring me that she was going to die several times, she finally made it up mcm clean.

I seconded it which went pretty well, but got a little scrambly towards the top.

Sandra top roped it a couple more times, to convince herself that; yes she could actually do this..... ;)

Then she suggested we go up to Fern Gulley which also had her convinced of her imminent demise by the halfway point. Once again she made the ascent unmaligned and i took it down.

As i was rapping the Chief was shining, with the imminent sunset.

It feels pretty good to be out again, but not normal to say the least! I still have a lot more work ahead of me..

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 01:45pm PT

Ps. This thread won't die as long as i'm still kicking.. I've been on a bit of an st sabbatical....

Grippa

Trad climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Jun 10, 2013 - 01:57pm PT

Keep the content coming everyone! Just under 2 months till I get to enjoy Squamish for the first time.

browniephoto

climber

Jun 10, 2013 - 02:01pm PT

no pro' bro!! although you could sink a coupla heads into that flare..

but seriously, without the bolt that stellar pitch would be a junk show of bashed out pasties and the bloody smears of splattered "Top 100" ticking gym climbers..

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2013 - 02:14pm PT

Are pasties acceptable free climbing pro now? Lol..

Good thing this isn't the valley!! Lol

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 10, 2013 - 05:19pm PT

Just trollin a little Brownie, u know me. No shame, bolt em all! I think I even fell on that bolt BITD lol.

It's true, Big Mike is out! With ropegun Sandra. That is awesome!

Maybe we should put a lil ticklist together for her?

I'll add:

People of size 5.5- pink cliff
Swiss cheese 5.7 - Nordic
Flaming arête 5.7- chek, foundation wall
Blueberry hill- calcheak
Many at second ave, new wall to the left of nubile woman in the bluffs
Davy Jones locker 5.6- pixie corner
Dusty eyes 5.4- boogers n' flies
There's another good one far far left boogers n flies called bilbo baggins I think? 5.6
Sugarloaf, many- Murrin

Edit- bilbo baggins is far right I'm dum

Baby Doll

Trad climber

Squamish

Jun 11, 2013 - 01:25am PT

Nice photos everyone. Thanks for the list RyanD :) I've put up a couple at Sugarloaf (last year and this year). Pixie Corner came to mind yesterday too. I'll take a look at those other ones you suggested. Thanks :)

Gotta work on my head space...big time. Its proving more challenging than usual given what's happened plus I haven't had much time on the rock so the combination of early-season jitters and stress from Mike's injury has been plucking at my anxiety strings. I know its difficult for others to understand but I'm working on it. Its funny cuz when I put up MCM last year I was soooo much calmer.

Other things I've been up to other than rope-gunning for Mike:

Weege's lamp

Tammi! I found the PERFECT space to hang the painting you made for the big guy... one of the nicest, not to mention, most meaningful, pieces we have in our collection. The photo of it doesn't do it justice...the walls are actually white not yellow and the painting glows blue during the day. Thank you!

And I also made a Get-Well Collage out of all the nice cards and messages which is hanging on our kitchen wall...

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jun 11, 2013 - 02:36am PT

Quick trip to Squamish on the weekend, but since I had to work pretty much every minute I wasn't climbing while I was there, I didn't tell any of you that we were going up. Felt bad about not having time to connect with Mike, or with any old friends, but figured there'd be time for that on the next trip.

We did no notable climbing, but did have an exceptional moment...

On Sunday we wandered over to Murrin to take a look at the Common Wealth, a newish crag we'd never visited. As we got close, I made out some movements at the base of the crag. Another party there ahead of us. Couldn't really see them through the trees. As we got closer, I was looking at something else (probably where my feet were going), not at the them, when I heard...

"Hey Dave."

Now, what you have to understand is that there are only two people in the world who call me Dave. But it wouldn't matter if there were two thousand, because I'd know that voice anywhere.

Yup. Number Two Son, whom I hadn't seen for a year.

He was out for his first day climbing since breaking his collar bone. Well, shattering his collar bone.

We had no idea Ian was in Squamish, but for me it made the trip. What a treat to see him again! Last time I was on rock with him was exactly twenty years ago, when he was just seven (he gave up climbing after that, but got back into it a few years ago). He was climbing with his girlfriend Deb, and two friends -- Matt and Shona (Matt works at MEC).

Maybe once his shoulder is fully healed, he can start hauling me up stuff I can't do on my own anymore.

(And in case anyone cares, the other person who calls me Dave is ST's Wayno)

Jstod

Trad climber

North Vancouver

Jun 11, 2013 - 03:14am PT

^^
Cool story - Hope you two manage to re-connect on the rock!

Not that it's very relevant to your chance encounter but we showed up at the same crag and were climbing next to you for a bit before your son and then you left. I couldn't quite figure out the connection between what seemed to be two different groups - now it all makes sense :)

Heard you were from Seattle and wondered if you were a Supertopan, but as a devout lurker, I left it at that!

Julian

MH2

climber

Jun 11, 2013 - 12:26pm PT

^^ ^^

That's two coincidences.

I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2013 - 12:45pm PT

I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.

What do you mean Andy? That already happened when we met! ;)

Dave - You were up here and didn't call me?? Jeeze! ;) Bring Wayno next time and we'll go cragging! Say hi to Mari for me too.

Paul Brennan

Trad climber

Ireland

Jun 11, 2013 - 01:23pm PT

Feeling homesick for Squamish and realised I've never posted a picture to this thread, so heres a couple of selected highlights of a highly evolved form of cheating that masquerades as real climbing:

(as nice a sight as you can hope for when taking a dump in a plastic bag)

One of the cooler ledges I've ever been on.

The route was maybe a bit much for me at the time, so was a proper mini-adventure.

Its hard to convey how big and imposing those roofs felt when cowering under them. That route was definitely too much for me.

MH2

climber

Jun 11, 2013 - 02:21pm PT

Perspectives we don't see often here, Paul Brennan. Those roofs can be as big as they wanna be as long as they stay up there.

Our first meeting was sorta pre-arranged, Big Mike. At least it was pre-announced. Looking forward to the next time!

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 11, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

I'm still waiting for the day when I come across a climber outdoors who I only know through ST.

We met that way too Andy! I recognized u from a photo I saw of u on here!

Killer photos Paul!

a highly evolved form of cheating that masquerades as real climbing:

So funny, thanks for the honesty- although I'm sure some here(kidcormier/brownie/fishboy/chief) would probably disagree :-)

Paul Brennan

Trad climber

Ireland

Jun 11, 2013 - 04:15pm PT

So funny, thanks for the honesty- although I'm sure some here(kidcormier/brownie/fishboy/chief) would probably disagree :-)

Don't get me wrong, I love wall climbing. Its pretty much all I did last year. How can you not love a form of climbing where you can be slow, weak, lazy, and still get kudos? And better still, be able to do it on your own, so you don't have to listen to partners complaining about you being slow, weak and lazy.

I love aid cheating, and it never pays to take yourself seriously.