Squamish Photos and Stories

we talked a fair bit on staples and his thorough testing on them. He also explained how they are actually much safer than most other bolts, because bolts can pop out if the rock inside deteriorates. With the glue ins, water can not penatrate the epoxy.

A good example was the route we were climbing right beside him: catscan. The bolts were rusty and had probably compromised the rock that we could not see. He says people use silicone or something to keep water out nowadays, but you can't tell from looking.

Our rock here is much stronger than most other places, so bolts hold very well. Most other places in Europe use staples not for there cheapness but because of the water/ intrusion factor.

Another reason he uses his systems is simply because people were stealing his hardware straight off the rock in certain places.

I asked him about how long the glue lasts and he said they told him 50 years. He doubts that, but is sure it will last a long time.

About the removal with a crowbar; that's a slot of leverage power which he figures is probably exerting around 4000 pounds to remove them with an outwards jerk. The staples are drilled two and a half inches deep at a downwards angle, so in a lead fall scenario you couldn't mimic an outwards torque.

How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?

How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?