Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
|
Red Rocks 5.6 should be considered serious for anyone!! Talk about Cheese grater!!!! The harder routes are less featured and you actually might survive a fall unhurt.
As to if I'll climb with you, the answer should be obvious. Of course I will!!! Easter, Leavenworth, lets make it happen.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
|
11b/c Finlayson could mean a lot of things :-) there's actually a lot of footholds so it may not be far from the truth, he did however also call betazoid 11b/c(12b) after warming up on it one day so.........
|
|
harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
|
Hey Casper the candy ass, I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
|
I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
No sh#t. I think it was Jim Donini who once said "If you can climb at Index, you can climb anywhere."
I don't think it's the grades, because no matter how soft or sandbag the grades, you pretty soon adjust. I think it's more that the rock there requires a higher level of commitment at whatever grade. Most places offer a variety of commitment levels. At Squamish there there is plenty of climbing to be had at whatever level of commitment you are prepared to accept on any given day. Whereas at Index there are relatively few climbs -- at any grade -- that don't require you to bring everything you have.
That, plus the fact that there just aren't very many easy climbs.
Anyway, back to Squamish...
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
|
I never said that Mike. I was really happy with it when it came out, I just get over-critical when watching it that's all. You are putting words in my mouth!
That's funny it ended up on some euro site for download.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
|
My apologies. I guess I misinterpreted your comments ;)
Sick film dude. Those euros like to see our rock I guess!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
|
No Permanent Address is a Relic production?! It has a good vibe. There is a small bit where a women tops out on a boulder, maybe in the Happys, and does a brief almost-dance. For me that was unexpected, genuine, and the kind of thing that stands out from the crowd of more high-production climbing videos I've seen. I thought the whole thing was a good look at how regular people(?) go about a life of climbing.
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
|
Heading down to the brewpub in about half an hour if anyone cares to celebrate me vacating squamish for a while? Will be there for a while I imagine. All and sundry are welcome :-)
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
|
We are currently at the pub. Here's a couple crappy bar pics.
Fishboy, Luke and Aislinn
Paul is stoked!
Relic and Paul
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:42am PT
|
That's a good feeling! Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2013 - 03:08am PT
|
MH2, that's Carrie Cooper you are talking about doing the little almost dance. She used to be a pro dancer, definetely has some moves. She's a total babe and a crusher of rocks. I was very happy to film her :) She's a beautiful mom now and still a crusher of rocks.
Ahh yes the Brutal pub. Nasty food and even the beer was crappy this time. I swear the burger there has changed at least twenty times. You never know what you are gonna get. Good thing there was good company and good craic to make it all better.
See ya soon Paul!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 03:36am PT
|
Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.
Thanks Andy! I'm pretty sure no amount of 'shoppin could save those ones, but I figured it was the thought that counted ;)
Hope you had a fun night Jim! I think I may have turned the corner on the wall rat thing. It's just a matter of having the right partner. Maybe some day I might want to borrow a few of those pins..
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2013 - 04:15am PT
|
Jim apparently has the brew pub HR manual to reference & pretty much sums it up. Still it remains a fun place to swill a few budweisers a few times a year. Looks like u guys had a good time, I was working so maybe next time. Unless its Saturday night, I'll be working. Relic looks affected for sure! Still managed to go climb for a few minutes in the sun this afternoon though!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 10:25am PT
|
Nice Ryan!! I heard your going to Yosemite with the boys to aid climb??? I'm jealous, what happened to going with me and sending a bunch of sick free routes??? Oh well, good luck with them, sounds like some interesting objectives.
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
|
Cheers lads, and thanks to everyone who came out, last night was great fun!Jim, I'll definitely be back. Unfinished business on the chief, and the wall climbing in Squamish is genuinely quality. I'll make sure you can make my next going away :-)
Missing ye all already.....
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
|
Rather than bump the stupid "People who scrub rock and build trails are evil" thread I'll bring Ryan's question over here to the Squamish thread. Which not only is where it belongs, but gives me a chance to let Big Mike know we're all wishing him the best. And also, there's a direct-line connection between this project's unfinished state and Mike's current state, which means it just has to go here.
So, anyway Andy posted this shot of one of my old projects:
And Ryan said:
Thanks Andy! Looks pretty cool actually, some quality stone. What's the deal with that thing Ghost? As the FA'ist would you give us permission to go up there with chainsaws & wire brushes & Ice hammers & rappel powered drills to do a little cleanup??
The deal with that thing is that way back in the last century, on the eve of my fiftieth birthday, I was not a happy man. Life had taken the wrong turn for me, and instead of looking forward to celebrating the next day in the company of family, friends, and lover, I knew I would be alone, and didn't see that changing any time soon. So I spent that next day doing the one thing I had left that gave me any joy... I bashed in to the base of the Oleson Wall and started a new route.
It was pissing rain, and cold. The climb was filthy. Seemed appropriate to commemorate the day by naming the thing "Candles in the Rain"
Over the next year I worked on it intermittently, mostly by myself, but sometimes with my friend Helen Habgood. We made some progress, and I began to believe that the climb might turn into something good. But just over a year from the day I started working on it, I moved to Golden.
When I moved back to Vancouver another year later, I went back and restarted work on it. (And also on an interesting little wall I found in Capilano Canyon).
And then I pulled a Big Mike. In a completely innocuous little fall on my bike (at the grand speed of about two miles per hour) I broke my hip.
As depressing as my future had looked before, I now didn't know if I'd ever walk again, let alone ride or climb or ski. Which is pretty much where Mike is going to be in a week or so. His close friends will be there for him, of course, but I can't stress enough how important it will be for all of us in the Supertopo community to continue to support him during his rehab period. I had strong support from my friends, but what really made a big difference was to hear from so many people in the internet climbing community (rec.climbing, back then).
Now, as it turned out, the hip frx marked the low point, and ever since then things have become better every day. It started with the support of the climbing community, progressed through an amazing job offer, which took me to a new city that is the best place I've ever lived, and led ultimately to meeting someone I've been in love with ever since (and happily married to for most of the last decade).
But I never did get back on Candles in the Rain.
I got close though. A couple of months after my accident I limped and staggered through the snow from the Bulletheads parking lot to the start of the backside trail. Getting up that little 10-foot scramble (this was before there were stairs there) was the hardest climb I ever did. I managed to get to the little bridge across the creek, but there was no way I could deal with the bush and boulders between there and the base of the wall. In fact I almost couldn't make it back to the car.
In the early spring, my bolt-together leg had healed enough for Andy (MH2) to take me out for a day in the Bluffs, but then came the job in Seattle, and...
In theory, I could could go back to work on that climb, but it's not likely that I will, and I would be thrilled if some of you guys who are active at Squamish now got out the crowbars and saws and wire brushes turned it into a real climb.
And maybe take a little chunk of rock that you've pried off it and give it to Mike as a present from me.
|
|
Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
|
Hey Jim Brennan, I'm an aspiring wall rat and am looking to pick up some pitons if your friend is willing to sell em' off.
I should probably stop being such a lurker and contribute. Can anyone name this climb?
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
|
Looks like up up and away to me Danny. Hey I got lots pitons you can borrow if you ever want, in exchange for Wet Denim Daydream beta.
604 849 3133 (text only)
I got the today through Thursday off if anyone wants to climb in the rain hit me up.
|
|
markr
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
|
Is that Up Up and Away, Danny?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!