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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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BK- yup!
Ghost it's vagina er I mean cobra crack ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Obviously too easy.
So, who is the climber?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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Hard to tell from the back. With the hair I'm guessing its Didier? Interestingly Wiki says he quit climbing after first ascent?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Not Didier. And he did not make the first ascent. But yes, I did hear that he'd given up climbing -- I think he entered a monastery. Or some kind of religious withdrawal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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No the movie first ascent which documented his attempts on cobra. After a bit of googling it looks like Nicolas Favresse?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Fred Sanford?
"Don't you know your guzintas, Fred? Two guzinta four, three guzinta six."
"Yeah, and five guzinta yo lip, Grady!"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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It's Nico. A friend and I were up there on Boogie Till You Puke a few years ago (okay, Erik was on BTYP, I was providing a manly belay). We'd seen a rope hanging out from the cliff top, redirected through a sling to a tree, so it hung well out from Cobra Crack and didn't know what it was for.
Then three guys showed up. One jugged up the rope with a video camera, the other two roped up and one of them started climbing Cobra Crack. He didn't get it. He could do all the moves, placing pro on lead, but he couldn't link it all up. What was really impressive was that he didn't seem maxed out. No screaming, no thrashing, just amazingly smooth. The climb was a bit too hard for him, but not by much. When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Nice guy, too. Real quiet and friendly.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Nice Ghost. That sling is still there!! Gave me a few ideas, although I haven't had the opportunity to try them yet. That thing looks rediculous when you stand at the base of it! :)
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 10, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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I stood at the base of CC last summer and realized that the people that can climb it are a different species from me.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Yeah, pretty amazing. One day, back in the dark ages, we were toproping a bunch of hard routes around on the NE and N sides of Siwash Rock. Some kid, 15, as it turned out, came along and hiked up the regular (south, "Slippery Slab") route on the rock. Downclimbed the thing and stood around chatting. We tossed him a rope, and he waltzed up some of the hardest routes on the north sides that we'd been struggling with.
We tried to get him interested in going to Squamish with us that weekend, but he just wasn't interested. But talk about talent...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 11, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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Yeah, Tami, 1963 or 1964. Guy's name was Sommerville or Sommerfield, or something similar. Not Sanford, or Smaill.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:00am PT
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Nice story Glenn! Thanks! When me Ryand and Kieran were on ypls, I looked down and saw Marc Andre soloing up behind us to recon Milk Road. He turned around at the aid move in the traverse over to the base of Milk Run, but it was still pretty impressive!
Watching him solo crime of the century was pretty cool too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Hey Hamie! Me n' Kieran did this one today. I was happy to see when i got home & looked in my instruction manual that it was one of your routes. My first aid lead too, although you probably didn't have 75 cams like i did :-) Did you name it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:57am PT
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Bump for Hamie! Check out the last message on the last page!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 14, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Ooooohhhh, The Terror! I had dreams of cleaning and attempting to climb that thing years ago. They were thwarted by some old-time locals telling me that Peter C had done it many years before and never bothered to even report it.
Great rainy solo-aid route though!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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Scrubber i think someone has been working it recently or did it because there's a shiny new fixe anchor under the roof & at the finish. Pretty clean as well.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 14, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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A new bolt appeared at the end of the roof too, to allow you to climb to the top without your rope pinching under at the corner. Obviously not needed for solo-aid, but pretty crucial if leading free.
K
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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Oh interesting, the free bolt u speak of was not there the other day?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Terror, one of my first leads bashing pins. I think Dirty Harry may have told me who was working the free ascent. Seem to remember someone mentioning it over coffe at Sawbucks in town. Dam it sucks when your memory goes!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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It was you that left Rolf. Your memory is doing fine up North, here.
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