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climber666madguy
Boulder climber
boulder (bro fest) co
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you guys are arguing over a total shitbox route to begin with. Why it was included in the guide I will never know. Go climb a real route and stfu.
and no one cares if you had similar experience ptpp. you are a sell out for the osbournegate.
cheers mate
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DixieGal
Trad climber
NC
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:14am PT
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In the fall of 2005, a Japanese party bailed from the second
pitch of Roulette after breaking off a block/flake and taking
a decent fall. I was nearby (starting WFLT) and saw the thing
happen. They tried the thing more than once, fell each time,
and then just decided to go down. To their credit, they decided to bail rather than drill or emasculate the route in any fashion. Plus they had just done the Muir Wall, and with no
down time, they were probably fatigued. I'm not sure if this
info helps the guy asking for info, but there it is.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:38am PT
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When Klaus says A4 I'm shitting my shorts.
And to be honest I thought Kate's first response was appropriate. As soon as someone decides to get defensive its all over. Kate was just telling it like it is and it turned into a pissing match.
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Oct 12, 2007 - 03:24pm PT
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great thread. Anyone been up there lately, BUMP?
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SonOfSpike
Big Wall climber
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Oct 12, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
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Here is a TR I found in Summmit Magazine Jan.-Feb., 1985
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Oct 12, 2007 - 06:31pm PT
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Sonofspike, thanks for posting the article... A good read.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Oct 12, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
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ha ha ha, that's a good read. I remember freezing my butt while belaying Earl that day, it snowed most of the day. I miss that man!
Jean
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 12, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeearl Redfern.
Hmmm. Yeah; I remember him.
Did a little line in the Kolob with him.
Two weeks ago I was in the canyon where he died.
Recently I jammed a crack he had done before me.
He had his own way of doing things and put up some monster routes, but bright flames often don't last.
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Dirk
climber
Boulder, CO
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Oct 12, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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Who was this guy? I mean, I know he put up a couple of routes on the Tower..... but they have only made me more curious.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
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Bill Crouse and I did the 2nd ascent of Roulette - I think in 1987. Actually I led the first pitch twice - the first time we got snowed on and bailed, pulling our rope. We came back a few weeks later and finished the route - I though theat pitch was going to be much harder based on Earl's description. It is a cool route in a cool location. I remember every pitch had a bit of spice. Bill took two whippers on the steep bulge pitch - the first time when the swedge pulled out of a #1 head. Both falls were probably 20-30 feet and caught by a beak - which after the second time was pretty bent. I'd highly recommend the route for its stellar location and thin climbing.
Another 'obscure' route I'd recommend is Luminescent Wall on the Porcelan Wall - an obscure Barbella / Shipley route. Geat climbing / killer location. Have fun!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:02pm PT
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this thread brings back memories of Aid-Man Bob...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Oct 16, 2007 - 12:30am PT
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drift............
RE:
"but that IS his real name, yes? "
yes -
Bob, and his affinity for Rattlesnakes...
kept one in his tent - finally got bit, told me about his 8k ER visit
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Oct 16, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
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I personaly know swan and he has got the climbing Blood. He got it from is pappy!! swan why don't you check my myspace and then get ahold of eric. i think he is the FA of that route or maybe not!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Great read of the FA of Roulette - it even includes big wall heckling from Swilliam.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 24, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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bump for SONOFSPIKE"s Post of the FA.
Sick, down right sick.
Not to mention, Klaus said it was harder than A3.
Falling japanese with big blocks
Head first plunges onto 1/4" bolts.
Hooks for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
OH and the great battle of kate and Lambone in 05'. SOme truly classic chit talking from the past!
Mucci
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Apr 24, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
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Wow. I used to be kinda spunky. Lambone and I are pals now. :)
-Kate.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Apr 24, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
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Hey, Pate. That's a good line.
Mind if I use it in a drunken rant, sometime?
They're my speciality, though I need material, sometimes.
I may, at any rate....after all, I'll be drunk, What the hell do I care?
(a jest, at best) ;-)
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 16, 2010 - 05:38am PT
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Ha, yeah sorry about all that Kate. Funny how we got along just fine in person huh? Sounds like you are up on Genesis now, glad you are still gettin after the buisness! Hope to catch up with you in June.
Roulette looks like a stellar line up the Tower, I'd like to get on it if I can't find the sac to lead that first pitch.
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