Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
mswan
Big Wall climber
Santa Barbara
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2005 - 05:42pm PT
|
Has anyone climbed roulette recently? I was wondering if it's a fun short route and what the anchors are like? Cheers
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 05:54pm PT
|
I wouldn't call it fun but it is a great route. I would say it is stiff for A3 relative to other ST A3 rated climbs, including runout hooking with longish groundfall potential on the first pitch.
Relative to everything else, the anchors were OK with usually 1 good bolt in the lot, sometimes more.
If you thought ZM was fun, you would think that this is fun. If not, this would not be fun.
-Kate.
|
|
mswan
Big Wall climber
Santa Barbara
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2005 - 05:59pm PT
|
thanks Kate, how are the hooks off the ledge? Fragile or bomber?
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 06:00pm PT
|
Dude, if you have to ask, don't go. Its a route with some consequences, your job is to be ready for anything, right? If you loved ZM, you'll love this. If you wouldn't climb ZM just yet, then maybe you shouldnt climb this.
-Kate.
|
|
mswan
Big Wall climber
Santa Barbara
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2005 - 06:07pm PT
|
What's with the negative response. I asked you a question about a route and now your raining on my parade like I'm not hard enough for this route. Lame
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 06:10pm PT
|
Wow she sounds strong!
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
|
Sorry to offend...I didn't want to be so rude as to ask for your tick record to help you know if it would be an "fun short route" for you. Maybe you should supply this information for anyone else who feels like trying to help you.
I'm not strong, this is the hardest route I've ever done, I am just trying to be very honest and answer your question.
If you liked ZM you will love it. If you wouldn't climb ZM, don't climb it yet. I could not tell the routes apart.
If you are at all questioning your hooking ability, this may not be the route for you, because there are maybe 40 hook moves of all types.
(omitted word easy)
-Kate.
|
|
mswan
Big Wall climber
Santa Barbara
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2005 - 06:18pm PT
|
ouch! shots fired (watusi)
by the way I never assumed it would be "easy". That word doesn't appear in my question. I'm not trying to evaluate my "hooking ability" either, I'm just wondering what the rock quality is like.
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 07:15pm PT
|
I am sure that there are plenty of other folks will chime in with opinions to balance mine. I'm a bit of a wus and was having an off week, anyway.
Besides, a girl climbed it, you'll be fine. ;)
:)
-Kate.
|
|
bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 07:30pm PT
|
"Besides, a girl climbed it, you'll be fine. ;)"
Ha!
Warning!
Mswan... The qoute above did not come from your average "Girl" and is not to be taken lightly.
~Ty~
oh ya and im sure WDD is way better than Roulette. So why even f*#k around on something "testpiecy" like that. I mean if your looking for a "Fun short route"
|
|
Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 07:33pm PT
|
Consider the first ascentist
|
|
Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 09:04pm PT
|
Yeah, you know he was having a bad week.
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 09:41pm PT
|
Is there a story with this route? I never found much, but its a cool line in a fantastic location IMO. (who needs awkward features, anyway) Would love to know more...
-Kate.
|
|
The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2005 - 11:24pm PT
|
I know for a fact that this MSwan fellow is a pussy. He even has a mullet.
MSwann:
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 12:35am PT
|
No, not a pussy at all. And you, Mr. Alpine, should recognize his grand style.
Alpine style, that is.
In fact, what we have here is a portrait of him at the last belay of Reticent.
And that tiny stuff sac was all he hauled...he slept in slings and drank the blood of decapitated bats for the protien and fluid.
He even led the whole route on that static line you see there, astounding, really, and only one yates screamer, held together with duct tape...which he bootied.
Rumor has it he shaved his face every morning with his own toenail clippings and didn't even use a mirror. Got the sideburns perfect every time.
Upon his summitation, he actually turned down the 18 dancing virgins and the three editors of climbing magazines, one of whom jumped to his death after beind denied an interview.
They said he was base jumping, but we know the truth...
And finally, after his proud three day ascent (he only took three days because he had to get just the right sunrise photos of half-dome, but who could blame him?)...
As he was so sought after as an icon ahead of his time, he had to go into hiding,
As a woman.
Named:
Ms. Wan.
Tragic, really.
But a true climbers tale.
-Kate.
(a little manic tonight, my heartfelt apologies to the lads dear mum, should she happen across this account...)
;)
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 02:08am PT
|
It only takes a couple of hard routes before people start to think they are a badass.
Also, it only takes one good schooling on any route before they become quickly humbled and stop cheast beating in front of other climbers and take their subtle ego and cram it up their ass.
Kate,
"Your time is gonna come...Jimmy Page solo..."
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 02:23am PT
|
Lambone...Watch yourself there stud boy. Why do you always feel the need to be such an ass?
josh
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 02:27am PT
|
Hey Lambone:
That's what I'm trying to say...I was in over my head, expecting "easier ground" based on the A3 rating. I thought it was really hard, as hard as ZM, on which I was also soundly spanked.
My time did come, I think I got pretty lucky. I haven't wanted to climb for a bit since.
I tried to give this guy an honest answer...read them over again, and see that I did the best I could...a good route comparison and the best advice I could for someone who questioned the hooking terrain...you best feel solid on all of it or don't go.
Oh yeah, go f*#k yourself, lameboner.
-Kate.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 02:34am PT
|
"Dude, if you have to ask, don't go."
no, this is what you said. which is one of the lamest things I think people type on internet climbing boards. You might as well just say "Dude, if your not 'in the know,' then you just suck and might as well give up climbing." Followed shortly by, "...and I can say that because I did that route."
Also, nobody asked or gave a sh#t if you were in over your head or not. glad you didn't die. All you had to say was the route is hard. Which is excatly what it says on the Route page. He asked how the hooks were, not if he was good enough to climb the route.
And DITTO you your last comment. If it was a real schooling then you wouldn't be here chestbeating about how badass it was.
whatever, you go on with your bad self toughgirl...
|
|
Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2005 - 02:45am PT
|
I stand by it.
C'mon, Lambone. (Sorry I told you to go f-yourself, tho)
Gotta love the internet.
Sorry to have spoiled your lovely evenings by being sutch an unhelpful bitch.
Let me know when someone gives you better beta, and post a TR when you get back.
-Kate.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!