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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jul 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Those BASTARDS!
Of course, the marina/boat-launch and campground money-makers won't be *curtailed* any.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Oct 23, 2010 - 01:54am PT
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Did a bunch of routes out there this week... the flakes, rat crack, a few .9s and .10s... all seemed as I remembered. But, Edger Sanction (10.a) seems like a few holds are changed/missing... felt like 5.10c/d. Somebody fix that, okay. lol
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 23, 2010 - 02:24am PT
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bummer, didn't see that.
maybe need to hit that this year.
Salad, let's roll!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2010 - 10:57am PT
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I've done Edger Sanction maybe 10 times or so. A few of those times it seemed harder than it's grade and a couple of times much harder.
Then again, last time (2-3 yrs?) it seemed perfect 10a.
There are a couple of climbs/problems in Joshua Tree that are harder or easier depending on Pluto/Jupiter alignment, humidity iron oxide content, number of coyote pups within a thousand yards, thermal activity or pollen count.
I think Edger is like that..
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 03:41am PT
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Yeah Wayne... was the last route of the day... maybe I was just tired... I don't know. :)
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Johnny K.
Mountain climber
Southern,California
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Oct 24, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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Good times
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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For you hard core lovers of Big Rock climbing history: here's that picture of Paul Gleason leading the first free ascent of The Virgin.
We had such fun, exciting, and wonderful times on that rock.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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you guys just don't get it. the citizen exists for the convenience of the state.
write to your representative in congress, the state house, city or county government. they'll be the first to tell you. throw the bum out and the next bum will tell you the same. they learn this when they get money for lawn signs.
------
here's a big rock story that left a lasting impression on me and my approach to climbing safety.
the RCS, and then the SCMA, used to have an annual picnic there and it was always a great clusterfarouk, daisy chains on all major lines. i think edger was my first 5.10a lead, and it gave me the confidence to start attacking others.
one such happy picnic day, there came the sound of someone taking a long fall without the usual accompanying yell, groan, scream or howl. "it's stan! stan fell on ..."
i forget the name of it, one of the more moderate face routes around to the right, probably a 5.6 or so. stan klein was an RCS regular, stalwart climber, never knew of him taking a fall like that, but there he was dangling unconscious at the end of a 60-footer. his belayer was probably ron mastrianni, also a stalwart regular and an inseparable friend. their regular climbing dates were sue and suzanne. ah, 'twas a merry group then.
stan's fall seemed a little hard to believe as we all leapt to the rescue. he was handed down the face, and then through some thick poison oak at the base, which gave an extra memory of the day to some of the participants.
fortunately an ambulance showed up within 10 minutes and stan was on his way to good care. they found that he had suffered a brain aneurism on the walkoff to this easy climb, probably about where he was getting ready to set up an anchor. most of the climbs on that side involve such a walkoff. stan had winked out at the most vulnerable time.
the happy ending is that stan recovered completely after many months of care, re-establishing the circulation that the aneurism had blocked off in his brain. he came to the annual picnic a year later, but spent the day just watching and socializing. looking up at the rock, i remember him saying, "i just don't feel like i have to go up there."
such a circumstance is hard to anticipate, of course, and pretty much unpreventable on a walkoff like that, but it led me to use a prussik knot a lot more than i used to, to back myself up in exposed situations on rappels and close to the edge.
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DonC
climber
CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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Phil - If my memory is correct, I was there the day you and Paul did this. I think it was a cool day and one of you was joking that maybe the holds would swell-up and get bigger if it warmed up a little. I think there were some good whippers that day.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Very possibly, Don. Most likely it was Keith joking about the holds. Remember how we use to love the sun coming over the top of the rock and warming things up.
So true about taking whippers. Amazing how with use to trust 1/4 inch bolts in those days!
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Oct 24, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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Thanks for the good news ( even if it's 25 years old ), Tony !
I was there that day too. ( I'm thinking '85, or there about )
"Puppy Dog" was the climb.
I had always assumed he had died, as he didn't look too good when he came by me ( everybody there had formed two parallel lines, between the rock and the ambulance, and the backboard was passed along, hand-to-hand ).
I heard shortly afterward he had suffered an anuerism, but I can't remember how I found out.
Finding out he made a full recovery, that makes my weekend ! Thanks, Tony !
I'm not RCS. We were guests of a guy we met in Big Bear named "Asher". That was the only RCS function I ever attended. My pals and I didn't even climb that day, it was too crowded.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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hey--glad to break some good news, chaz. mariko is telling me '84--we hadn't become parents yet.
would that have been asher waxman?
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
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Yes.
Can't forget a name like that.
What's he doing ?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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asher's pretty active as a sierra club peakbagger. i spent a couple days with him and his good friend dan richter about a month ago--we hiked up leavitt peak and stanislaus peak out of sonora pass. stanislaus is probably one of the most esthetic hikes you can imagine--across wide, alpine meadows to a sharp old volcano overlooking the headwater canyon of the carson river. i was hoping for a sasquatch sighting, but no such luck.
we then attended the memorial for john fischer in bishop--they were good friends to john, and asher took the last photograph of him, the day before he died in that accident with a deer on 395.
i think asher and dan are two of the most erudite people you'll ever find in the mountains. they're both opera buffs, and i came away with an appreciation of a number of things i never even knew about. asher works for the beverly hills library and i think he reads every book that comes in.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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Hey Rudder,
Can you Youtube the Vid of me carrying Deb up "Stick to what"?
I'd love to send it to her and the rest of "Team Vortex"
-w
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Oct 25, 2010 - 03:26am PT
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Will do, Wayne! Don't know exactly when... it's on compact VHS tape (after all, that was in 1999). I have to convert it or get it converted. Looking forward to it, though!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2010 - 10:53am PT
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Awesome!
Whenever you get a chance.
Prognosis is good for my latest injury and I should be back to my normal climbing abilty by Jan/Feb. Until then I'll be on slabs, once I can get out of bed without help, that is.
Maybe you can lead me up "Run for your life"?
Never did tick that one.
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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i know this is off topic but does anybody have any route name or grade info on the bolted boulder and slab just on the south east outskirts of the dam, i found it yesterday there is an access rd just off ramona xpwy that is only 100ft long and it dead ends to the hills ( slab and boulder are just right of deadend rd ) direrctly southeast of the dam.
jimmy
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 25, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
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nothing ?
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