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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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oh, snap, I think I just figured out that the old Chouinard white harness was based on or like the Whillans.
crap, does that mean I'm older now?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 13, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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I think the Whillans was the inspiration for many fast wall ascents back in the day. As if you had to hang in that bitch for very long, you just wanted the hell out of there. Oh the pain and the numb legs and bruised kidneys.
and the Italian guy wants one? They were made by Troll I think, but no longer. They should have came with whips and chains. I remember when I got one I was so stoked. Dropped my old handmade harness like a hot potato. Man we were styling with the Rugby shirts, EB's, Whillans harnesses, and bandanas. Damn straight, back in the Day.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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This kind of harness is very easy to use in mountaineering... with ski or crampons... and you haven't the problem of regulation...
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scuffy b
climber
Bad Brothers' Bait and Switch Shop
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May 13, 2009 - 11:40am PT
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Actually, I never did use one, and, in fact, I've never seen
one in use except in photographs.
I guess my sort of dropout phase matched up perfectly with the
Whillans window.
When they were introduced I was using a tied 1" harness that
worked great.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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May 13, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I used that harness for 15 years... with some great fall( 1 in pichenibule, verdon... 25 meters...) without problems... now my harness is very tired.. but i like this!!!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 13, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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One time, thought it was ghastly, went back to swami...
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Mattq331
Mountain climber
Boulder
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May 13, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Of course - there really wasn't much choice (at least in the UK) in the 70's.
And Mal is right on - they only became nut crushers when you rapped or hung from it without checking the package first. I never noticed it during falls.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Mungeman: Yes, I think the design of the Chouinard harness was derived from that of the Whillans. The Whillans appeared (commercially) in 1972 or 1973, the Chouinard a year or two later. The designs were fairly similar, apart from the crotch strap bit.
I used the Whillans harness through the 1970s and early 1980s, took a fair number of falls, and didn't have any problems. It was helpful to have a belay seat for hanging belays, though.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 13, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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I had one in the late 70's and early 80's and survived a few small falls in it. Even managed to have children after using said contraption.
Cheers,
Doug
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matisse
climber
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May 13, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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my first harness. it is still out in the garage somewhere.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 13, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Bought one, put it on, noted the route taken by the central strap, and went back to my good ol' swami. But my gf liked it:
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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May 13, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Whillians..1975
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 13, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Bought one in Australia around 1970. Took about an 80-100 foot fall ripping a long A4 pitch in the valley a year later. Guess I was lucky since I later had 2 kids! I eventually wore it out.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 14, 2009 - 02:58am PT
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My first harness was also a Whillans. As others have noted, the design wasn't as bad as some assume--assuming you lean back and don't fall standing straight up.
Curt
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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May 14, 2009 - 08:49am PT
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Big improvement over the swami for rapping. I never took a lead fall in one, I didn't want to join the Vienna Boys. Racking on the harness was way ahead of it's time.
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pittolo
Mountain climber
italy, turin
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HI!!
yesterday I have bought a "alpine bod" harness(black diamond).
It's an evolution of a donwhillans harness.
The first impression is good! Very light, easy to wear, not very expensive(but that is'nt very important for a climbing harness!!)
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clemay
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I did once and my left nut still hasn't forgiven me for it.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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(With voice at a high pitch shrill) "YES!"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Are some of you implying that the designer, otherwise known as the creator of cross-training, didn't have the qualities to 'sack it up'?
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