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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 19, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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This should smoke out a few trogolodytes.
The Chouinard version of the Whillans included in the question.
In my case, yes, from about 1975 to the mid 1980s.
And if you're STILL using one - get counselling. Soon. And a new harness.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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My partner, Bud, wore one for years. I thought he was crazy. Probably the best argument I've ever seen for a swami.
Aside from the obvious danger they posed to male anatomy, that single strand could really apply serious forces to the pelvis. I met a woman at JTree in an extended cast who had taken a long fall in one, gotten sideways, and had that strap fracture her pelvis right above the hip socket.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
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Yup, the classic Troll in the late 70s. Not as bad as the rumors have it. Wish I still had one for the collection.
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Oh, yes. It was a big deal, too, since it wasn't tied. Seem to recall the leg loops snapped on to the waist belt.
Not sure how long I used it but I made the transition to something more modern in the late 80s.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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No, too expensive at the time. Besides, I just wanted to be like Stannard, Barber, Bragg, Dunn, Bein, Robinson, et al, so I used a 2" red tubular swami for years. Which, BTW, is still great for casual low angle cragging [i.e. Whitehorse slabs, Royal Arches, Snake Dike, etc] or long moderate alpine rock climbs.
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DonC
climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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yep, first harness I wore.
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
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Yeah, I still do...it's great for winter climbing.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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I wore it once.........what a poor design.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
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(I'm thinking that this whole thread is a Classic Troll.)
Nope. Never used one, and no one I ever climbed with ever used one either.
Never took a whipper on one either. And my bacon was never saved (many times) by one...
Never trusted those newfangled buckles... As a precaution, I took some 1" tubular and bar-tacked it around the waist so that I could tie an overhand-followthrough knot.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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I could tell by looking at it that it was just wrong, except maybe for women but probably wrong for them too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
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Is the bear catholic?
Does the pope ßhitin the woods?
of course! Time was when there weren't a lot of options.
I'll dig out a photo of Barrybro using one on Deto in, '06(?)
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Lorenzo
Social climber
Oregon--formerly DC area
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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I used one - once. took a fall and went back to my 2" tube webbing Swami.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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I always thought this was Whillans's cruel joke on lame climbers who would consider falling. Never even tried one on. Know some guys who used 'em and now sing soprano.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 19, 2008 - 09:27pm PT
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I started wearing one in the late 70s and used up to the late 80s. Damn fine harness for alpine climbing. I used to skipped putting the crotch loop through the waist strap and use a biner instead. Then I could drop the leg loops when nature called.
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Dec 19, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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On my second big wall my partner untied to do the deed and forgot to tie back in. Almost did a freefall from 1000+. I sewed a new harness with removable leg loops soon after.
Lets face it gear selection was so limited in the 70s
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 19, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Yeah, they look all wrong but ever since I took my second 50-footer in one (then I took it again) I was a believer. The only time I'd put the squeeze on my package was when I'd sink into it nice and slow, like rappelling or easing into a hanging belay. Falling was never a problem. maybe I just got lucky but... Whatever, I'm glad there are alternatives now but I'm glad I had one then.
Mal
BTW, I've spawned two kids since my Whillans days and both are more or less normal.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Dec 19, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Yes,worked fine, still have one.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 20, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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Our caving and climbing club had one. It was quickly scarfed by Pam as she was the only one of us who would dare to wear it.
Anders - check the soprano section in the choir for former users.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2008 - 01:10am PT
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Troll? Moi?
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Dec 20, 2008 - 06:42am PT
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I seem to recall hearing that in the movie The Eiger Sanction, Clint Eastwood was wearing one under his blue jeans during those climbing scenes where he is doing the first ascent(some of it on toprope) of a desert spire.
How kinky!
I never wore one myself. I was a 2 inch swami guy until the early 90's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8N-NRjchKc&feature=related
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