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fosburg
climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Klaus was right! I've been seemingly usurped by none other than the man himself. For the record: Walt Shipley and I climbed the actual Nevada Falls. I don't think anyone else did it that year though it was in thicker than usual. Jeff Hornibrook and I climbed the obvious flow to the observer's right several years prior.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 20, 2008 - 11:36am PT
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yeah, Lee Vining ice is pretty much dead.
(As I look out my window at a frozen waterfall.)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Dec 29, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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Nevada Falls must have been awesome.
I agree, for example, I hear there are some lines at June Lake.
Still LV ain't that bad. Try ice climbing in Ireland. Perhaps in a Blue Moon. In a very good and cold winter maybe North Prison Gully on Lugnaquillia in the Wicklow Mountains.
Now, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe (and carignhorns etc) in wee Scotland...
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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I always laugh when I see/read about people clamoring to get to Lee Vining. There is SUCH good ice throughout Cali, if you just think a little and are willing to walk farther than 500 yards from the road. Pretty typical, lazy climber mentality though. But, hey - as long as guys keep playing on WI3 noob routes in LV, the really good ice is left for others.
Huh?
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Old posts, funny stuff.
Anyone else notice how thick the sarcasm is in my last post?
Probably not.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 29, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
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I know of a 1000' waterfall that freezes reliably every winter in the Sierras.
It is called Too Far To Walk Falls.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 29, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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I know of a 1000' waterfall that freezes reliably every winter in the Sierras.
It is called Too Far To Walk Falls.
hey, I know exactly where that is
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Dec 29, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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Many years ago John Mattox and I did a several pitch water fall in the Delaware Gap. He led the last pitch just as the sun came out, with water running down behind the ice. By the time I could follow, there was also several inches of water running down outside of the ice. I was hanging from my ice tools with water pouring into the parka collar and sleeves...coldest experience of my life...a DUI dry-suit would have been appropriate...perhaps that would be the ticket here
(Many years even earlier, Mike Hoover and I climbed The Trough at Tahquitz in full conditions, using strap on crampons and single wood-handle Stubai ice hammers...took us a long day to do what can be a ten-minute free solo on a warm summer afternoon..)
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 29, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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You guys need to stop with the secret stuff and post up. The valley could have some classic ice routes.
The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.
I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.
No lie. Ice climbing is like 5.13 now. The most amazing stuff is getting done, and not just the sport fixed mixed routes.
Just email them to Duane Raleigh. He knows all of the hot ice climbers, or the ones that people know about. He still climbs nigh every day, and is climbing hard. He's nothing compared to the youngsters, though. Climbing only .13d is weak. I had a guy tell me that last time I was passing through that part of CO.
draleigh@bigstonepub.com
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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The problem is that most of the decent ice climbers are to the east, in the rockies or new england.
hahaha... plenty of ice climbers in Cali,
I'm sure that they would love to do some of these routes if they were in condition.
that's a big if and the crux of the whole post...
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 29, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Ed,
I think that the problem is that ice in California is not that great, so people don't get a chance to climb ice here that often. I'm sure there are good ice climbers in Cali, but to get good you have to climb a lot. Given are climate, opportunities are few.
I really enjoy ice climbing. If I lived in Mammoth, I'd be in LVC every week.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 29, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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The 'secret' Too Far To Walk Falls I'm talking about would take you a stiff
two days to get to in winter if you were really lucky; more like three.
You might as well hop on a plane and go to Kanada. I know of some doozies
in the Cascades too but nobody will go into the heart of the N Cascades in
winter, either. I tried to con a helo company owner into taking me to one
BITD. He didn't want to jeopardize his summer contracts with the NPS.
"But you could hover and we'll jump out so you didn't land in the Park!"
It didn't fly.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 29, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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the cali potential is there, just add water.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 29, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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^^^^^ That is sick Stuie, why no more farming? or is there?
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 29, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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the cali potential is there, just add water.
and colder temps
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Dec 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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after reading what I wrote before…. If you plan on climbing the falls you don't have to tell me…
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 29, 2013 - 03:25am PT
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Anything on the North rim seems very unlikely (with conventional equipe} except for something like Lahamite Falls in Indian Canyon, a little shelterred like that.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:57am PT
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Lahemite Falls, November 2011
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Rockclimbing only seems dangerous
Ice climbing actually IS dangerous
and screwed up because you can't do it in nice weather
I like my punishment in moderation
There was on old Rec.climbing saying about Ice climbing. I wish I could look it up easier. Something about when you go ice climbing you're looking forward to it on the way, suffering when you're doing it, and then reminiscing about it afterwards.
Peace
Karl
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