Upper Yosemite Falls: who is the FA on the ice climb?

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2008 - 10:40pm PT

The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb?

The answer might be that there hasn't been an FA of that climb...

...what's the answer?

GhoulweJ

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

Dec 18, 2008 - 10:43pm PT

I know who did the first base jump off it.. Oh, that's not what you asked... Sorry.

climber

Cardiff by the sea

Dec 18, 2008 - 10:43pm PT

I don't believe that one has been bagged.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Dec 18, 2008 - 11:13pm PT

This has to be the best troll Ed H. has ever generated. Very fun concept too!!

best, ph.

Jaybro

Social climber

wuz real!

Dec 18, 2008 - 11:18pm PT

Ed Hartouni & Vic Tishous, 1/20/'09. Conditions permitting.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber

Last >>

Dec 18, 2008 - 11:23pm PT

Who did Nevada falls ? That was almost as unbelievable at the time .

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:25pm PT

One of my earliest Yosemite memories was belaying on the Arrow Direct in March of 1971 and watching huge ice sheets falling off the wall.

I'd be hearing all the angels, Bugs included, and hoping they would see me through before the thing melted.

Hey, ice climbing is just aid, right? How hard could it be?

WBraun

climber

Dec 18, 2008 - 11:48pm PT

Last winter frozen solid.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:52pm PT

I remember that Werner, and I was in the Valley that day too! but no ice tools, and anyway, you'd have to get up and go early and fast... and not worry... somehow...

Jingy

Social climber

Flatland, Ca

Dec 19, 2008 - 12:05am PT

You've got to be kidding me......

Are people thinking about doing that thing?

oh the insanity!!!!

Hold Up EDIT: If anyone is going to be doing this in the near, or far future.. Let me know ahead of time. I'd like to be there to see that.

Jaybro

Social climber

wuz real!

Dec 19, 2008 - 12:10am PT

Werner/Ed how long did that last?

It's moments like that, that I thank the powers that be, that I'm way too chicken to try that stuff.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 12:13am PT

I don't think it lasted very long, but Werner would probably know... I'm not sure it lasted the day.

WBraun

climber

Dec 19, 2008 - 12:17am PT

Not long Jay.

It fell apart before noon.

And klaus, to many old E's hahaha

It was Shipley/Fosberg on Sentinel Falls not Nevada. Nevada was Shipley/Wbraun/Cos. Unfortunately Cos got hit by a huge chunk of ice in his face while belaying Walt on the first pitch and was bleeding so we told him to go back to the Valley and get checked out. Turned out it wasn't to bad but but he missed out on the climb.

Cos was pissed and I don't blame him.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Dec 19, 2008 - 12:18am PT

"The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb? "

I'm wondering if ya'll were talking about climbing the cone at the bottom. Heard a few dicey stories of early forays up the cone that almost had bad endings.

Peace

Karl

WBraun

climber

Dec 19, 2008 - 12:23am PT

Upper Yosemite Falls that day would never had a chance.

It was paper thin.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 12:30am PT

We were talking about the whole shebang, bottom to top...
...more bullshit speculation: probably best just to go solo for speed.

The climb is totally committing, you'd have to have luck on your side as the melt out would be happening when you were high on the route, and possibly starting at the top. Starting very early would be a good idea, and hope for nice plastic ice to speed you along. But it is well beyond any ice climb I've ever done (but not so crazy by Northeast standards, think Pomme D'Or in the Malbaie River valley, it does stay nice and cold there, though).