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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 15, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
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khanom,
Do you have ice tools with you? Some pretty nice drips form up at Sam's. Otherwise just get out and enjoy the scenery, I'd recommend a run down to Glory Hole.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Dec 15, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
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Hi,
here is the Natural,
Scooter, about Stick in your Eye? I doubt it makes the top 10.
Here is how it got its name, you see this kid on my back?
He loved playing with sticks, used to use it to hit me when I wasnt travelling fast enough (yes, climbing parents are beasts of burden on occasion). Right before I did the FA of Stick in your Eye, he accidentally stuck that stick in his eye, and let everyone in cave creek know about it. Although in those days I think I was the only one around.
And you truly have to be a hard man to climb in MO. I fell once all alone, TRing some new route above Warsaw Lake, and cut my shin all the way to the bone receiving many many stiches. That was fun. Then there was the time with S. Burns I think at new routes at Trappers Camp. Damned Poison Sumac got all over everything only I didnt know it. I only figured out something later when blisters formed all over my legs and my. uh more private parts after taking a leak. You got to be tough to climb in MO, and dont even get me started about Cliff Drive.
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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Arkansassy...yummy climbing. Per Scooters request, I shall dabble into an 'off-the-top-of-my-head-top-ten+/-':
Sams, Classics -
Instant Karma
Edge of Flight
Quannum Leap
The Natural
Coup De Ta (sp)
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Cave Creek -
Sex Type Thing
Hippy Speedball
Stems & Seeds
Lips & Assholes
Cool Breeze
HCR-
Horseshoes & Hand Grenades
And many various nice crack climbs...too many to mention!
Basically, Arkansassy is the buisness if you live in the midwest. A fella can learn everything he neeeds to know about climbing (except that the golden knobs of Tuolumne are f&^king incredible).
Much love for Arkansassy Climbing!
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
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Oh Shizzle...Can't believe we got G. Olsen to post-up! MO climbing is sick. Cliff drive...funny you mention it, the locals have been replacing our ancient hardware finally...and I think they have now experienced what we had (the epic hours of hand drilling we did in that dense limestone is not much easier with a bosch!). Can you believe that there are like 40+ routes at trappers now? Crazyness!
Hope you are doing well G. We miss you here in Mo. And that Stick-in-your-eye route has become the standard warm-up at Cave Creek.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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Bov-
Is Hippy Speed Ball a new route? I like your list as well. Put some pics from the Bovine gallery up, I know you have some good uns'. See yourself on Patio Direct, a few posts up?
What route is BJ on I can't remeber its name.
G.O.- As far as stick in yer eye goes, I just like the fact it is vert with big pockets to the anchors. Fun to warm up on and do a couple laps.
P
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Scooter-
That 1st photo of BJ is on Lip Cancer @ Cave Creek, the Last photo, same post is of BJ on Stick-in-your-eye also @ cave Creek.
Hippie Speedball IS a newer line @ Cave Creek. Its an 11b-ish face climb over by some other newer lines (Sunshine Divine, Dirty Naval, etc.)
I might upload a few pics if I get a chance. It's kinda a pain if you don't have some time to waste uploading elsewhere and linking them here. We will see...
That is a GREAT B&W shot of you on PIGS IN SPACE @ The Quarry. I've never seen anything that really gives you the feeling of how big and horizontal that roof really is!!!
bov
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Dec 16, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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Looking at noshoesnoshirt's first set of images (first pic), I was wondering what guys in Arkansas were doing with haulbags? ;)
Looks like a ton of beautiful climbing there, for sure! Beautiful settings too.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 16, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
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Bovine, the author of Missouri limestone select?
Nice book! I have worn the cover down to almost nothing. I bet you've been climbing here since before I was born. heard a roomer of a henley wall trip next year, think the land owners will let it happen?
Can't wait to go to the quarry, it looks like it will end up being my second favorite area to climb in the AR/MO region. Wish i had known about it earlier!
khanom-
I would love to go down there climbing, but I have finals this week and then knee surgery next... You should be able to climb, I've been climbing down there when there was still half inch of ice on the ground!!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2008 - 10:29pm PT
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Bov-
You took that picture of me on Pigs In Space! Ha! And that is you on the Quarry pillar, hanging on a bathook I believe.
MOs.-
If you are under TWENTY, than I bet ole' Bov has been climbing longer than you have been alive. He draws some killer topos, and put up some good lines. Lucky fer us midwesterners!
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sketchyy
Trad climber
Vagrant
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Dec 16, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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I could meet you at sam's friday
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sketchyy
Trad climber
Vagrant
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Dec 16, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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I e-mailed you
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Dec 17, 2008 - 04:49pm PT
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Mosucks,
Psyched about the Quarry huh? That place is super sketchy now days. The roof of the cave is literally about to collapse in my opinion. It is for sure hanging lower than when we were doing those routes years ago, especially with a snow load and saturated soil above. The face climbs are probably still good, but traffic there is minimal so if go while the vegitation is dead or you might be bush whacking to each route. If you do make it down, let us all know how that roof in the cave is looking.
Bovine
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 18, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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bov-
I am waiting for owl roof to be low enough for a sit start.
It's been a long time since I have been to The Quarry...
It's WARSAW season!
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 18, 2008 - 05:26pm PT
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Top of the head response to the original post:
Arkansas Reality
For Whom the Bell Tolls
Involuntary Manslaughter
Boronocus
Stems and Seeds
Diet Pepsi
Instant Karma
Break in the Battle
Black Thunder
Troubador
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 19, 2008 - 01:29am PT
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Well that could be why I haven't heard of it. I'm thinkin about a Feb trip stopping by there to check it out so I'll let ya'll know my findings.
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 20, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
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Rodion-
sweet list. Every time I go to climb Black Thunder it's wet. Is it worth the wait? It looks genius. Have you tried "Red-handed" nearby?
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 21, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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Jer-
Indeed, Thunder is worth it. Super subtle after you gain the mini-dihedral--like HP 40 bouldering up there.
No, I haven't been on Red Handed. That's the blunted arete, right?
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 21, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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Yeah man- I climbed Redhanded the first time since Black Thunder was wet. They look similar, but BT looks to have some mysterious climbing. Some day...
How about top ten splitters in Sams area?...
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 23, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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OK...
ummm...
Reality
Team International
Copperhead
Diet Pepsi
Instant Karma
fun 30' perfect splitter #2 handcrack on the throne (name?)
Cat
Darkness at Noon... except it's not technically "splitter"-- very Utahn, though
help me, I'm dyin' here... what else?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2008 - 04:10am PT
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is darkness at noon in the back of that tunnle/corridor. If not what ever that crack is, is splitter hands.
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