Good, all-day cragging shoe?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Aug 29, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
The purple shoes are Modelo A-1's made over five years ago. They are not made anymore.

Tea tree oil rules - I got the same problem!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 29, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
Ah, Anastasia and Nefarious ...good friends give good advice and take the time to do it. Thank you !! Enjoy your Friday and TGIF Lynnie
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Aug 29, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
Anything super tight.. Preferably with a curved down toe..

lace up.. so it doesn;t slip around once you get a gallon of sweatyfeet goin...

Board lasted.. to you can toe forever!!!

Ankle high Chuck Taylor style!

That should give you some ideas as to what you need!!!!

I hope!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 1, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
bump
Forest

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Sep 1, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
Mythos. They've been my sub-5.10 shoe for the last 10 years. They even work on 5.10 without a problem. Somewhere in that range, I switch to Miuras for the better toe and edging.
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
Sep 1, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
I use two shoes on long or all-day climbs, depending on the route (I have Morton's toe, but no fungus).
I like the Mythos for slab and thin crack and I use my very old Aces (the black ones with neon green on them) for climbs with more face holds or wider cracks. I climbed Royal Arches plus Crest Jewel (about 25 pitches) in the Mythos.
samg

Trad climber
SLC
Sep 1, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
Big fan of the Aztecs also. My pair are have been holding up just fine climbing four days a week all summer and I'll definitely resole them when the time comes but if or when they kick the bucket I will buy another pair for sure.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 1, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
Phantom Fugitive-

I bought the v-mile and I have to send them back. I usually fit a size 8, I bought the 8 and I can't even get my foot into them.

Do I buy my street size or something?

I loved the five ten ascents, but they don't appear to be making them anymore. Not the best performance, but damn they are comfy.

Tom
Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber
Misery
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
hey tom-I am a size 8 street shoe, and size 8 Vmile... prolly already took care of this I imagine.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
I second Scared Silly's comment about 5.10 Pitons, very comfy for the all dayer.
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
For an all day shoe, I have been using the 5.10 Huecos for years, but I really want a pair of the Acopa JB's - they look sweet! :-)
kelly slater

climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
tradmasters
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
Apologies if repeating what's already said here... just skimmed the thread.

Best all-day shoe is the one that fits your foot well and is not too tight. But the replies on this thread show that opinions vary.

edit: MisterE, I've got a pair of unused size 12 Acopa JBs for sale.
climbinginchico

Trad climber
Modesto, CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
Well since nobody has mentioned it yet, I have a couple pairs of Evolv Bandits sized snug but toes flat. They are my all day shoes, and what I climb harder trad with due to the nice toe profile. I also got the extended toe rand, this increases comfort and friction in smaller cracks. Those shoes I have worn nonstop on 14 hour days before.
oldcragger

Trad climber
Truckee,CA
Oct 27, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
No contest... For all day general purpose: Mythos.
Acopa B3 for hard technical.
perswig

climber
Oct 27, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
Newtons, if you can find 'em. Great all-arounder.
shutupandclimb

climber
So. Cal..............d00d
Oct 27, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
I had a pair of 5-10 Ascents that were the greatest for all day climbing.

I have v-miles now for a long route shoe. They work well and are relatively comfy..though still not broke in.

Note: the new v-miles are equipped with Stealth onyx rubber. imho the c-4 is much better.

Daphne

Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Oct 28, 2008 - 12:16am PT
For all you Mythos fans, when you get them resoled do you specify different rubber, like c4?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 28, 2008 - 12:23am PT
Old Cragger, if you like Mythos try the new Scarpa Techno- same comfort but more precise and better edging.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Oct 28, 2008 - 12:27am PT
Huecos.

Mister E, stick with the Huecos (this from a guy who owns 2 pairs of JBs) unless you've got a wide fetish.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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