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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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I'm looking to replace my old ACE's with a good, all-day climbing shoe. My feet have expanded and I need to actually take off my Ace's at belays. I'm not looking to climb 5.12; I'm looking to crag all-day in the Gunks with my daughter in relative comfort.
Some foot notes:
1. Longer 2nd toe [Greek/Morton's toe]
2. C-width / 9.5 US street shoe / 42.5 Euro
3. High instep
4. Toe nail fungus is under control by using John Stannard's grind it down method [60 grit and some patience]
Thanks in advance!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:43am PT
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Try the Acopa Aztecs, I have the mortons foot thing going on too(2nd toe long)the Aztecs seem to be a wider shoe in the forefoot and toe box. I used to be a boreal wearer and I find the Acopa line fits much the same. rubber is natural rubber and sticky as hell. give em a try, I think you'll be happy with em. give the guys an email at Acopa, they'll be happy to give you advice......and they back their product 100%.
Peace
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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Gunkie,
Regarding the toe nail fungus, a dremel tool does the job in seconds- make sure you use a lower speed setting. Try the new Techno from Scarpa.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
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I have the toe fungus, do you sand the top of the nail? I thought it was underneath the nail.
Mythos are great shoes for all day comfort, but I'm going to try some of these Acopa's also.
I can't believe donini is on the Taco. Thats f-n cool.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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Megas.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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The problem with fungus is the toe nail becomes very thick- especially the big toe. This creates painful pressure on top of the toe when wearing close fitting climbing shoes. With a dremel you can easily grind down the top of the toe nail. You can even bevel the toe nail to creat a better fit. It only take a couple of minutes for each big toe. I do this every month or so.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
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The Mythos has fewer brutal pressure points than the ace, and fits Ace-shaped feet (at least mine and my bf's). The symmetry would probably be good for your Morton's toe, although I don't have one myself. The lack of stiffness = more comfort for me, but your feet might get more tired as a result if you're used to a stiffer shoe.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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Regarding the toe nail fungus, a dremel tool does the job in seconds- make sure you use a lower speed setting
I have an el cheapo Dremel with one speed adjustment, light speed. It almost caused my big toe to burst into flames. I'm sticking with the JStan manual method using 60 grit.
It's working. Now I need to get some Tee Tree oil and vapo rub.
Regarding shoes: I tried some of the newer slingshot heel, semi-slippers. Not working for me. I'm thinking along the lines of Acopa JBs right now. But, keep those recs coming. Thanks for the help!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
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I have been wearing a pair of 5.10 Pitons for all day shoes. Toes get a little hot when in full sun.
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scuffy b
climber
Elmertown
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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The Aztec seems to be identical in shape to the Vector.
I recall the Aces to be similar in width, but a bit straighter, which might be better for the Morton toe thing.
EDIT
Emery boards, you know, are actually made for the purpose of
sanding nails.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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Another vote for the Aztecs and a comparison to the Vector. Acopa continues to impress the hell outta me.
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Aug 27, 2008 - 01:36pm PT
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Look up the Vmile by fiveten. For some reason this shoe has gone mostly unnoticed.
It is velcro closure, with perforated (breathable) leather, a slim, padded heel, and it looks good on the disco floor.
I put 5000 vertical feet on 'em in their first week, and they felt like running shoes... break-in period was shorter than a pair of socks.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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I always liked my feet until I took up rockclimbing. Maybe if I use the dremel on my little toes which can't find room to live in any shoes with out screaming at me.....
Seriously, how much PAIN on a scale of 1-10 should I be putting up with on the rock?
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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MYTHO"S get my vote on all day comfort if you get the right size .
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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Lynne, for the climbing grade you do, NO pain.
your shoes are way too small, or they don't fit your feet, or both.
People can climb up to 5.8-5.9 on certain sorts of rock in comfy trail shoes. I've bouldered certain sorts of V0 in crocks LOL.
Get something that fits you snuggly while wearing socks. Just make sure your foot does not roll around inside the shoe A stiffer sole will be nicer to your feet than a softer one.
I can wear my Megas ALL DAY and not worry about my feet, and I have climbed up to 5.11 in them.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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Socks ! Maybe that's the prob. Do most climbers wear socks ?
dirtineye, I really like 5.9/10 face climbing and I think I need good rubber sole for that...? Just can't fit my foot into one without pain...and I'm not a whimp.
If shoe fits "sideways" then it's to long and my toes don't touch. Oh well,
Bottom Line: Socks ?
Acceptable Pain Level: ?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 27, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
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scarpa technos are closer to your aces than the mythos and maybe closer to your aces than the aztecs.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:07am PT
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Another vote for the Acopa Aztecs. I've resoled mine twice, and they still kick ass. I also have a pair of Mythos, but for my feet they're not nearly as comfortable, and don't climb nearly as well.
One thing to know about Aztecs is that they will delam on you within a couple months, maybe less depending on how much you climb and, maybe?, how hot your climbing environment is. But they won't delam anywhere on the shoe that I consider important - they'll peel mainly on the sides (both) of the toe box. Hasn't affected my sense of their performance in the least.
Both times I had my Aztecs resoled, the same spots delaminated in a matter of weeks.
I'll buy another pair once this resole has run its course.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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If you like Aces try the Boreal Ballet Golds if you can find em
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Sanjan
Boulder climber
a prissy pit
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Aug 28, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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. . . some old Converse hightops . But seriously , seems like Acopa is pretty-much the official shoe of SuperTopo now . Bachar slips in those studio generated product pics every chance he gets , and the rest is hstory .
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