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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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dude shoulda fired in a piece. If I was belaying him I woulda made him... hope he's alright...
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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Weschrist,
With all due respect I have never advocated a macho "go for it, you got it" attitude. In fact, I'm quite the opposite. Unlike you, I have never had to rescue or recover broken-up or lifeless bodies from a climb as a result of inexperience or bad judgement. I have witnessed my share of completely uneccessary
climbing accidents. I agree that climbing is about knowing your limits and finding a CONSCIOUS balance between pushing your limits and living to do it again. However, you can't legislate or compell good judgement or good decision making. In fact, experience and good decision making often come from making "stupid" mistakes in the past. What ya gonna do Weschrist?? How are ya gonna control stupidity so the stupid don't ruin it for the rest of us ??? Simply calling people stupid ain't gonna do it !
A Respectful Cracko
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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The sad things is I've seen folks climb that way.
Way scary.
The whole time, I'm yelling "Put in some PRO!! Dude!"
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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How many folks here did not have a mentor that showed them the ropes?? Whether you paid for it or not, those mentors were your guides.
The bloke in the first vid obviously had no mentor.
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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I'm standing by for the "rope stretch warning" thread.
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scuffy b
climber
Elmertown
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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His first broken foot may not have been related to climbing.
While I agree that was a stupid lead, for all the reasons
people have brought up, it's quite an assumption that this
guy hurts himself climbing as a matter of routine.
But Man, he really blew it.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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I'm pretty happy we didn't have video and internetz when I was a n00b.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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i've spent the last day or so since watching this vid trying to recall if, when i was first learning to lead, i did anything as patently unwise as the guy in this video. i don't think i did. i was so hyper-aware of the risk when i was leading that i basically didn't get very far above my pro unless i was way, way solid. as well, i'd usually be pretty reluctant to go for it if i didn't know the pro was bomber.
generally speaking, i came closest to getting myself killed long after i had the whole climbing thing ruthlessly dialed.
i guess the moral here is when you are starting out, it's best to understand that there is much you don't know, and to behave accordingly. me and my buds were self-taught; we were the classic "hitchhike to the crags with mom's washing line" kind of crew. nobody showed us how to use a stopper -- we shoplifted a few from stanley andrew's sporting goods store and goofed around with them on the ground until we figured it out.
my first many, many leads were on routes so well within my comfort zone that i could focus all my attention on ropes and gear and getting that stuff dialed. i didn't start leading at my limit until i had three or four hundred climbing days under my belt.
i hate to say this, but it's been noted many times before and it's worth noting again: the vast majority of today's beginners learn to climb in a gym. they do the 5.11 pink route a few times, then jump on a 5.10 crack route in yosemite. the results are woefully predictable.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
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yes, it's true that most of us spent hundreds of hours on rough ground up high before we ever stole a clothesline, but then I bet that if we could rerun young bvb we'd find plenty of non-standard moments.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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my god kerwin, your doug buchanan impersonation is spot on. you should think about turning pro, for serious.
i enhance the transfer of my mind's thoughts from one fooled fool to another fooled fool imbued with ample capacity for non sequiters robustly!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:54pm PT
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I, like bvb, was (and still am) a pretty cautious leader. If I'm run out on tough terrain it's because I'm in shape mentally and physically and really solid, not because I think it'll look cooler. I have climbed with guys like the one in that video though. Guys who are doing something sketchy for god knows what reason. The caption on the YouTube video by the guy who posted it eluded to the "irony" that here it was their last day and this guy gets hurt on merely a single pitch climb. This shows a bit of naivete on his part, so it seems pretty obvious this was a troop of pretty beginner climbers.
I don't find this very sobering. Sobering would have been a video of a guy doing everything right and STILL decking. Actually that would be terrifying since we all kind of live with this illusion that if we do everything "right" we will be ok. This kid did nearly everything wrong, which I find heartening. I hope he heals up ok and goes on to live his life with a little more thought.
*edit* Cracko you should probably talk to Werner with a little more reverence. Considering the amount of bold stuff he has done, for the length of time he has done it I'd say he is being pretty damn careful.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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bvb: "[Y]our doug buchanan impersonation is spot on."
Was it the "non-standard moments"? I rather liked that. How about "non-Stannard moments"?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
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Glad to see he fell on the first pitch.
Was that a multi-pitch route?
No biggy, he seems to be somewhat O.K, i mean when a Kayaker swims, we don't make too big a deal about it.
Just the nature of the game, a fall.
Nothing new, eh?
Gravity has been around since the creation of this present Universe, but how would I know that, I ain't no frickin Cosmologist, somebody wake up Stephen, I have a few questions.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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Even my encyclopedia-of-yosemite bf couldn't recognize that route. Anyone? Beuhler?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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personally, i don't think that's yosemite. the vegetation looks all wrong, and the route is a total mystery. if it was in the valley someone woulda i.d.'d it by now.
the veritable mysterious nature of the robustly cloven granite led the foolishly foolish su'topians to inveterate cogitation and inane musing on the origen of the climb. luckily, the haplessly foolhardy adventurers depicted in the covertly captured surveillance tape -- national farce service rangers, no doubt -- made no mistake as to disavowing their need for a so-called "guide", who would have accomplished no purpose but to deprive them of their picuniary sustenance while availing them naught but his questionable "wisdom."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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I couldn't recognize it either...
but it did look like he lost his right foot (slick, no doubt) and that at least a couple of pieces pulled. Should have put in something higher.
The dialog is interesting....
dude 1: ...inaudible...
dude 2: "ya"
dude 1: "if he falls right now he's dead"
dude 2: "no he's not"
dude 3: "you got it ..."
climber dude: whimpering sounds
dude 3: "you got it, you got it"
climber dude: "don't talk to me ... , I've really got to concentrate"
climber dude: "SH#T!, OH!"
dude ?: "OH!"
dude ?: "are you all right?"
dude ?: "let go of the rope, let go of the rope"
climber dude: "ok"
dude ?: "are you ok?"
climber dude: "YES!"
dude ?: "are you hurt?"
climber dude: "I DON'T KNOW, I've got so much adrenaline, my butt could be broken"
dude ?: "a little help"
dude ?: "ok"
dude ?: "undo your legs, undo your legs"
climber dude: "I can't " more whimpering & hurting sounds
climber dude: "ohhh! DON"T SET ME ON MY FEET! don't set me on my feet!"
dude 2: "lay him down, lay him down, lay him down"
climber dude: "ohh, ohh, I think I broke a foot again"
dude ?: "find something to put under his head"
dude 2: "lay him down, lay him down"
dude ?: "here you go"
dude 2: "grab the other rope, grab the other rope"
dude 2: "uh oh, SH#T"
climber dude: "that's life"
dude 2: "huh?"
climber dude: "THAT'S LIFE"
climber dude: "undo this shoe please, now!"
dude 2: "ya"
In my book, not "that's life."
I hope the climber dude is ok, and I hope that he is healing. But I sure hope that someone informs him in a rather stern manner that he was being a stupid as#@&%e, not a climber. My guess is that he was the experienced guy of the group, he was the mentor.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 26, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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What the fuch is it with the lieback? Its a jam problem with great pro.
Juan
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 26, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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Here's an obscurity, and a reminder never to stop belaying until you get word from the sharp end. (Take her from the 2:30 mark):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=To8ToBQuF7s
Strangest, most avoidable fall, everybody was ok; Cochamo Valley, Chile.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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That was weird Bruce. It looks like a piece blew up high, and it was a grounder from that piece.
I think he was still 'on belay'. Right at the beginning of the slow-mo you can see the higher piece that ripped out.
Still weird how he slid out.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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OK, next guy who falls spends a year confined to the Gym.
And if you die while climbing, I swear I will never speak to you again.
You should only climb as high as your I.Q.
This guy was in 20 feet over his head.
Climb at 1/3 your ability and you will never fall.
Then just upgrade your ability if you want more fun.
But don't go over 1/3 otherwise you might be meat on a rope.
Any free solo Cannabis climbers out there?
Then again, how would you know?
They are too sneaky to spot, paranoid weirdos, lurking about in the brush.
Stains on their pants from constantly jerking off, fot the love of God, why won't somebody do something about this problem?
Nancy, I love ya baby!
Just say No!
Wait, she's worm feed, right?
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