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dolomite_said
Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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This came up on my subscriptions a while ago (it's not me / it's not my video) . I wasn't sure if it was already posted , but . . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTQcbnfiEYk
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 25, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
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ouch !
all i can make out on his harness is some hexes - it didn't look like the pro was bad ? is it a flare there or what ?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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it wasn't so much that the gear was bad, as much as the leaders decision myt to place more of it. when he brought his right foot way up like that, i knew he was hosed...
actually, if you watch where the rope is as he goes up into that layback just before he falls, he is a prety lucky guy!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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Ouch.
Anybody know what route it is? He did run it out quite a bit. More than I'd like.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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that sh#t skeevs me out man
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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Does anybody recognize the climb?
"... week climbing in Yosemite ... we suffered our third fall ..."
The guy liebacks up, looks like maybe he does not know how to use a hand jam to stop to place gear. He places no gear in the upper section of the climb. His foot slips and he gasps. His buddy on the ground yells up "You got it." "You got it." He keeps liebacking, then falls from near the top. Hits the midway block with his foot on the way down.
No analysis by the guy who posted the video. Clearly since the guy was that sketchy on the lieback, he should have stopped partway up to place gear for protection. Why did his friend yell up "you got it" instead of "can you get in some gear?" ?
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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Yikes, No helmet, he could have easily died with a good knock on the noggin.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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pro has its uses...
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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Kudos for going for it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
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Rather demanding afterwards, as well, esp. for a guy who couldn't be bothered to put any gear in...
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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i was watching that rope behind his foot the whole time... too many climbers are completely unaware that the cord probably shouldn't be used to insure a head first dive. Remember the article in R&I with Pizem? Freeing Arcturus he committed to a lieback across his rope and wham-o, broken back. Ugly stuff. Lest it be a lesson...
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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My palms were sweating knowing he was gonna peel.
"I think I broke my foot again."
AGAIN!? He did this before?
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Military? Just a guess from the haircuts.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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yeah - you'd think he would have treated the pillar like the ledge that it was and sunk two or three pieces in the first 15 feet off it...oh well. just be glad he didn't smash his brains out i suppose...
i bet he coulda got a couple hexes in too ;-) more cowbell !!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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" ...Kudos for going for it. "
I don't think so.
How many good climbers would let that happen? (By "good" I am not talking 5.whatever, just "heads up" folks?)
I'm glad the guy didn't die, etc., but that is just the kind of idiocy that will bring in rules like "you have to wear a helmet," or "you have to take a test to lead," etc. I can see us all, 10 years from now, with little color coded tags on our harnessess to certify what we can and cannot do.
Still, in the bigger picture, good the guy didn't get killed.
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Gene
climber
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
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Opportunities missed. Hope Dude is OK.
GM
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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Yeah.... laybacking sucks that way as far as getting and gear goes...
Poor bastard.. My one bad lead fall was a similiar burly and nasty layback. Although I wasn't THAT far over my gear!
-Fear
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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GDavis, that clip is pretty wild ~~~ At first I thought it was staged, but on second look, you see they guy's handhold break.
Shivers!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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What a bunch of fools. Way too many mistakes.
I don't like hearing "you got it" from the ground. It makes it sound as if the guy on the ground knows exactly what is going on with both me and the route. It's just spray, really, with them letting everyone know they've been there or that they think they know my climbing abilities that well. The reality is only I know what's going on and I'll decide what to do based on that. It should be more like golf where you either stfu, or say something less conditional like "nice job" or "way to go" - "you got it" usually just pisses me off - and what if I don't "get it" - the comment becomes negative like "you had it but blew it.."
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