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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Mar 25, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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By far, compared to 4 generations of previous approach shoes....
Camp 4 5.10's! Love the heel rand! Great for stability while plunging down scree and talus. Got heavily abused in Patagonia while carrying 70 lb loads. 5 stars!
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Mar 26, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Pyro on the Mountain:
My La Sportiva Cirque Pros say "Made in China"
and they are not very tough.
It seems some of the Sportiva models, including
climbing shoes, the models that don't last (I mean longevity of
line, not longevity of a shoe) are Chinese (Flash, Merak etc)
but the ones with staying power (Mythos, Miura etc) are Italian.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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Yeah I have to say. The 5.10 Camp Fours are the best approach shoe I've ever bought as far as durability and comfort. I've led 5.8s in them too. They are just pretty darn tough. No sign of wear and tear on the rand area after a year of heavy use. I'll actually either run out of rubber or have to burn a hole through the leather to wear them out.
Go get some.
Most popular new shoe with YOSAR dudes recently.
At the AMGA get together the question was more what guides weren't wearing them; super popular.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Mar 27, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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Just got my Acopa scramblers in the mail. A perfect approach shoe, and obviously capable for easier routes. Its like the flyer, but better. Thanks Jb!!!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Mar 28, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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I almost went with the 5.10 Camp 4's as well. I went with the CTC's since I found a great deal on them and the Camp 4's were pretty new and I was wondering about five-ten's quality issues.
Sounds like the Camp 4 are pleasing lots of folks so far.... will keep 'em on the radar for next time.
Fletch
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 28, 2008 - 10:13pm PT
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Atchafalya - Glad you like the Scramblers. For some reason they remind me of Croft...
Speaking of the old Flyers and approach shoes, I remember one day in July I was shooting photos of Croft soloing Butterballs. After I jumared back to the top of the cookie and coiled my rope and did the descent, I was hanging out in the shade waiting for Croft. It was ninety something degrees out and all I wanted to do was go swimming. Nobody was at the Cookie that day.
I waited and waited for Peter but he wasn't around. Then I looked up at the Nabisco Wall, and there he was, soloing it in Flyers! I couldn't believe it....but yet it was true.
Peter on Butterballs before he soloed it in Flyers... air temp, 90 degrees.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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No fuking way?
I have to hear that straight from Croft to believe it.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 28, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
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W - For real! I wouldn't BS about that.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
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Wow, un-fuking real ......
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
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Dragging out an old thread....
What's your favorite approach shoe these days?
I prefer comfort over technically precise. Reasonably sticky. Durable, maybe even resolable.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Used 5.10ies for years, the last couple pair didn't last so well. They aren't bomb proof like they used to be.
I've got two pair of the scarpas and like them. Still have them both - got the second pair because I wanted a little insurance against them not being made. They are more comfortable on my feet, which I think is the most important thing.
I do everything from shopping at Safeway to approaches and easy rock to hiking the Grand Canyon in them.
Not sure about the resolability - probably not.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Great to see the old voices on this thread.
Speaking of shoes, Chris Trull pointed out the Scarpa Crux to me, by far the best all around shoe I've ever owned. Good for rock hopping, easy bouldering, hiking (just finished a 30 mile backpack with my boy). Super comfy. Looks like they will be excellent wall shoes too, hope to try them out on a big wall this fall.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Fun thread , I'm a old D7 addict, they needed to shed the 1st sole 1st.
Now as always I watch for a shoe that looks like Lava Domes.
The Scarpa Zen was the last pair, I switch between 'Sportiva & Scarpa shoes.
And have kept to a safer policy that if it is worth climbing it is worth putting on
A climbing shoe.
I had looked for the real 'Klettershoe' but could not justify themfom what I understand, you want to replace the for-foot with a climbing shoe smooth sticky rubber.
The listing above was as far as I ever got to ordering a pair.
So instead I fill a ; ( Sz 1,1/2 X ) larger than regular 5ten Cyote red lace-up, with a stiff toed orthotic, to make an edge boot.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Ditto, Scarpa Crux.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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I have always preferred Five Tennies for the rubber but I don't like the newest version, too stiff and clunky IMO. I have an old pair of Patagonia Cragmasters that are the bomb, seemed like the perfect combo of climber hiker unfortunately Patagonia stopped making them a few years back. I still am a diehard FiveTen fan and am using the Five Tennie high top now. Tried the Ganda Guides and found them too stiff for my liking but they are a great backcountry scrambling shoe and hold up to abuse.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Pleased with the new sportiva tx4. Fit is slightly loose, fixed with inserts. So far, much like. decent in snow, have done long days with heavy packs, plenty of 4th class. Probably not as good for 5th class climbing, not as good as others there. Rubber is top notch. Quality is very good so far. Just not form fitting enough for climbing climbing, more oriented as a long day, high mountain shoe.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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liking the Salewa's - wildfire for light approach and mountain trainer if I'm backpacking into climb.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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WHATEVER fits your feet!
I'm on my 3d pair and third model of Five Ten Guide Tennies. They are excellent for me. They fit me better than the Scarpa equivalent.
I use them for big hikes with big loads, long day hikes, 3d class/easy 4th and even 5.6.
My latest model is the best one yet. Fits me best, better ankle protection, best grip on rock and best water resistance. They are NOT waterproof but I've hiked many miles in a damp pair after a thunderstorm, a creek crossing or a snowfield. They are wearing very well.
Five Tennies for the rubber but I don't like the newest version, too stiff and clunky IMO I agree they feel very stiff and clunky. I almost didn't buy them but the comparable Scarpas didn't fit me well. i've found the stiffness useful on scree and snowfields. Right out of the box I did a big day, including drenching thunderstorm, without them bothering my feet. (see my other comments above)
I always wear socks.
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