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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 13, 2008 - 03:11am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 13, 2008 - 03:17am PT
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Mar 13, 2008 - 07:38am PT
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8 ball in RRG and Uprising on the Rostrum.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Mar 13, 2008 - 09:25am PT
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Very fun thread! Keep 'em coming!
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Mar 13, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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No, it is a variation of the pitch above the crux finger crack on the Regular North Face route. You do the 11c pitch off the ledge and belay as normal. Instead of climbing the 10d corner with the little overhang at the end, you traverse right on friction to a left facing hand and fist crack. Real clean and adds another 5.11 pitch to the whole rig. Worth it for sure!
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bob
climber
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Mar 13, 2008 - 10:02am PT
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Kevin, that sounds like loads of challenging fun and it has now taken priority over some other stuff!! Nice work. I'm going to be around the Valley all April and May, then will be up in T. Meadows for the summer fun. I imagine I will get the time to go give that line a go. Thanks again. No topo needed is what it sounds like. Sweet.
Bob J.
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bob
climber
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Mar 13, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Todd, is the picture above Man Dike in the Wonderland? IF so are there two routes side by side? (not too close) IF so, I did those routes!!!!! Good stuff.
Kevin, that route sounds better and better. I mean, does a gear list get better than that? Probably, I guess, for the wide lovers, but 5 of the 3 smallest? Yeah!!!!!
Bob J.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 13, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Manly Dike and Big Brown Eye;...side by side;...good and scary too, but not life threatening......
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bob
climber
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Mar 13, 2008 - 11:01am PT
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I tried the Manly Dike in the 90's and got shut down getting to the dike. I did the Big Brown Eye and that was awsome save for busting those face moves above that rusty old thing.
So, the pic above Manly Dike pic is not the BBEye right?
Bob J.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 13, 2008 - 09:27pm PT
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Gobie,
Find the SSCA site and blog? Let me know if you need links. Rene is still involved, and appears on these forums, on occasion. Some members spend time on summitpost.org.
Being far away, and a recluse, I don't get out much at all with the group (don't get out much in general), but I'm sure they'd all love your company at their events!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 14, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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Well, it's hard to follow the Silver Turret and Gordon's pictures, but...
My best FA is also my only FA. It ain't much. Others have climbed it and enjoyed it somewhat. One group even posted it on mountainproject and rc.com and gave themselves FA credit. They must've thought the bolts and anchors were natural. It's easy slab, almost a full 50 meter rope length. The best part of it was sitting around in the van mixing margaritas and thinking up names. We decided on Tough Shiites.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 14, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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(all photos "lifted" from Mountain Project)
List A:
Some routes I didn't "steal" from anyone else:
# D in Photo
Then there is List B: Some routes I stole from others.
List C:
My Best as of yet incomplete projects:
Still finding goodies.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Mar 23, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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My best ever was a solo F.A. on N.E. face of Mojon Rojo (Fitroy group)in 1987. Its just left of the Bridwell rt. V5.9 A2 done in a twenty hour push. First solo F.A in the region.
Scott
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 23, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
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my best FA was the one(s) I did alone,
wandering around in the hills of San Diego,
the ones that went unobserved and unrecorded.
little climbs that provided me with a personal experience
and a deep connection with the natural world,
before I knew what a "first ascent" even was...
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
Meyers,CA
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Mar 23, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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I may have had my first FA today. 60' starting with a 6''-7'' OW, leading to an exfoliating crack, to a squeeze chimney. All of it kitty litter granite. I guess someone else may have done it before, but with all that crumbly barbage, maybe not. Never heard my girl cuss so much, OW isn't her thing I guess.
In all, lots of fun.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Apr 14, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Wow, what a great post! Warbler, I am in awe, and Gordon those are some fantastic photos.
I guess some of my best FA's are the ones I remember for the partners as much as the rock. Here are some of the best pics. There are several others where I don't have as great of a pics but I know you guys just want to see the pics. Thanks, Dan, Joseph, Larry, and Drew for so many good times and great days in the vertical world.
Celtic Cracks 1000ft 5.10-
The Labyrinth Wall -home to some of my most exciting routes
Seppuku, Blood Wall 5.11a 500ft
Seppuku, Blood Wall 5.11a 500ft
Double D, Mt Wilson, Red Rocks 1500ft 5.10
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Owlman
Trad climber
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Apr 15, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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I've done 401
FAs. (Buwhaahaaaaaaaa).
The best one is called:
"large white man", in the Deltas with Benowitz (Sir Apple).
Somewhere in Alaska. You'll never find it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 15, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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this one is one of my favs.. Legitimation 5.8 *** undisclosed location.
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Melvin Mills
Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:28am PT
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Todd Gordon,
That 3rd picture in you second posting must be between Rock Point and Round Rock and is right off the highway to the east? Did you do the obvious cracks on the front side visible from the highway or the more hidden backside? I just passed the formation the other day driving back from some stealth climbing somewhere in the sandstone of the southwest and it looked sweeeeet. Those folks in that area got it made for nice rock. There are also some hideous looking welded tuff towers further south in the Chuskas.
I am pysched someone checked that tower out.
Melvin
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