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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 25, 2014 - 02:41am PT
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Trango Pulpit 6050m, Norwegian expedition 1999, North face
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Norwegian spoken. Not texted in English.
This film is about two separate Norwegian ascents of the Trango group in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.
June 1999 four Norwegian climbers (Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per Ludvig Skjerven, and Einar Wold) set out to climb the unclimbed northeast and north faces of the Trango group (Trango Pulpit, 6,050 m). The team reported of difficulties up to A4/5.11. The climb was completed after 35 days of consecutive climbing. The climbers survived the return to base camp after 48 rappels and three days without food.
"The Trango Pulpit. A journey under the skin." An article in English by Robert Caspersen.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200009100/print
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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May 25, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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In regards to Kurtyka:
I was at a cookout yesterday, and my old friend John Porter from England was visiting. Porter has gone on a few expeditions with Kurtyka, and keeps in contact with him. I had a brief but very memorable encounter with Voytech, on the Walker Spur, many years ago, and asked Porter, how he was doing.
Porter replied with a smile, " Well, he's a millionaire you know".
Apparently, Voytech's importing business has been quite successful.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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Obviously my bad. Sorry about that but very glad to find out that I am wrong. I checked on Loretan but not Voytek.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 25, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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Every time my random iPod shuffle brings up the Bangles singing "Eternal Flame" it makes me think about Trango Tower.
It would have been hilarious to see Gullich and Albert chilling on the ledges listening to 80s girl-pop and singing along.
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Vertikal
climber
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May 26, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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The climber Dag Kolsrud lives is Oslo and still climbs 5.12. He is no musician though. Google his name + researher and his professional info will appear.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 26, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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What Vertikal said... and I'll add: barefooted... inspired by Bernd Arnold...
Echte Elbsandsteiner: Bernd Arnold - Wege nach Innen
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Marlow- Would you please post that video over on the Dresden thread. Thanks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Long overdue Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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Hey Jim- What were you headed in there to climb?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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Were you guys intent on repeating the original English route?
How did the climbing go on whatever you chose to take on?
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Skeeered
Big Wall climber
the otherside of the crack
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hell of a TR! THX for posting it back then SG
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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That video is amazing, thanks for posting! what an unbelievable place on earth to be...just beautiful...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2018 - 08:41am PT
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Bump for acres of stone...
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