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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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One of my all time favorite expedition accounts! Brown, Boysen and Mo bag a big one! From Mountain 52 Nov/Dec 1976.
Full size of the inset on the previous page showing the original route.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nice. I asked the crowd to post up their Fissure Boysen stories awhile back...thx
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Just read Fissure Boysen to Tradchick the other evening.I think it's my favorite climbing story ever.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
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Post a link to that thread if you got any interesting responses. I got to hear the tale straight from the man himself around an Indian Creek campfire.....More on that later.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Mar 10, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Steve
Boysen came to Holubar (now defunct) in Denver after this
ascent and gave a tremendous slide show about this ascent.
I can still remember him speaking of his knee being stuck
in that crack. Thanks for posting the article!
SW
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Mar 10, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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"Americans would call it an offwidth crack; I called it something else"
"Mo could hardly jumar up with only a jammed knee for support, even though it would have held him."
This article has the goods!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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Climbing bump!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 17, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 01:49am PT
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Vintage Trango Bump!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Boysen is 68 has had two hip replacements and still climbs 5.12 cracks and face.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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right on Steve,
one my fave's too.
thanks for posting.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I would never have had the pleasure of meeting him or Rab Carrington if they weren't Jim's pals around the campfire out at the cottonwoods in Indian Creek. Tom Frost thinks the world of Martin, as well, having had a grand time on Ama Dablam with Jello for dessert!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That's too funny Steve. I met Mr Boysen in similar circumstances, only at the at the Superbowl. After Donini introduced him, I shook his hand and asked, "Of the Fissure?"
He answered,
"Pissoff!"
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I remember this one well, very inspiring! 3 or 4 of those pictures do something that a lot TR photo's don't do, they give you a real feeling of the immensity and unforgiving nature of the place. Surely in the top of my fave TR's.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Would love to see this OCR'ed...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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Shame indeed! Bump!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Sep 25, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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On the boulders around Ama Dablam Basecamp, Martin moved with the surity of a sloth. Hanging upside-down he would ponder the next move and then slowly, in complete coordination extend and twist his long body to get the maximum reach. Just there, at the end of his fingertips, would be the required hold, which he would calmly clamp, then search out the next move. Breashears and I could often follow Martin on those problems, but not with such complete control.
A dozen years later I went to Trango Tower to try to free climb it, largely inspired by that old article in Mountain mag. Gullick and Albert had already free climbed the tower via the Slovenian route two years earlier, but Catherine Destivelle and I thought we might find something better in the vicinity of Kurtyka and Loretan's route. But cracks were too icy that far around on the east side, so we settled on a new start (9 pitches) to the Slovenian route, then we finished out our free climb that way.
In the decade between the first ascent of Trango Tower and the first free ascent, even the greatest climbs in the world had focussed down to the style in which they are climbed.
-JelloFondlyRemembersMartinCatherineAndTrango
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 26, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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Thank you Jeff for sharing your Jello memories.
Jay, please elaborate about the Super Bowl. So funny.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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Jeff- Thanks for posting, as always! You two clearly had a lot on your minds with respect to style...
From Rock and Ice November/December 1990, just back from the fun.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 26, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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A HUGE BUMP for this one! Whoo hoo, it just keeps gettin' better!
Tell us, Jaybro, tell us!!!!
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