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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Stupid Texan...
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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American Death Triangle? Isn't that really just some righteous retro action, like hip belays and biner brakes?
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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CMAC, please divide the forum into different sections. This would go into "NOOBS analyzing anchors or accidents".
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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im with dirt. i could care less if flamin on this guy hurts his feelins or makes the community look like style fascists. his instruction is unecessarily and abormally less safe than it could be. so his buddies convinced him to put the movies on village idiot. maybe he learned somethin.. whatev.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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I wasn't aware ('til now) that protection was used to prevent a fall.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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You guys need to lighten up. Myself, I can't wait to use that "lump of chalks" line! "Careful with that lump of chalks, they're like gold!"
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Hip belays and biner brakes have their place, same as a munter hitch. You can never know too many ways to do things, so long as you know when and why.
But somebody posting to all the world about how to do things wrong and claiming it's the right way, has no business doing so.
There are already plenty of shallow end of the gene poolers out there just waiting to killed climbing, and whenever some dumbazz gets it, more often then not their family will be out with a lawsuit against any and all. All climbers loose when those suits are filed.
No wonder folks shake their heads at Texans.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Comical to say the least.
My fav, he says again and again how a locking carabiner is redundant.
Um, no it isn't.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Tolman, I was just joking about the hip belay and such being obsolete, but seemed like any rap station in the era when biner brakes were de rigeur was an ADT, hence my little snapshot of some anchor or other in the Valley from the 70's.
They're wrong now, but once they were the norm.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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KNOWING that the earth was flat was once the norm.
Spectral evidence, admissible in court, was once the norm.
Once you know better, WHY keep on with something less than good?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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I have met some incredibly stoopid people in my life, and have also pulled some incredibly stoopid stunts as well.
I'm more often baffled by mankinds bs than brilliance, but it certainly runs the gamut.
I've rapped off my share of ADT dual 1/4" rawl bolt belay stations with so many layers of rotted slings you couldn't clip into the hangers. I'm also going about replacing them every time I come across them.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Well, I was going to mock the guy for his rope coiling video, it's hilarious. However, I've been sitting here for a couple of hours trying to make a seat harness out of webbing. So far I've created a spaghetti-like monster of tangles, but nothing like a harness.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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I tried making my own harness from 2" webbing for the swami and leg loops from 1" webbing.
Some things are much better bought than made.
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Even more than the unsafe climbing tips, the thing that bothered me the most with his videos is that he has to clear his throat between every sentence! Can someone get the guy a throat lozenge?!?
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bdaddy
climber
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All that is missing from his page is dirtineye's shoe lacing video, that would really tie it all together.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Hiya sh!thead, steal any fixed gear lately?
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bdaddy
climber
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For the millionth time dipshite, noone (I know)stole your friggin gear. Noone would bother wasting there time at the backwash gully piles you call routes anyway. Get a clue.
PS
check your laces
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WBraun
climber
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Hahahaha too funny.
Anyways .... we've all done dumber sh#t than this guy but we weren't making instructional videos. When making instructional videos, they should be made with the proper techniques and systems.
This guy is definitely blowing it big time and should not be instructing since he doesn't understand some of the more basic sound fundamentals of anchors and belay systems.
He should remove those videos.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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agree, if instructing, do it right.
sounds like he has a cough or something too.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Yeah, Werner, we've all done worse, at least I have. We've all also seen worse, you can bet.
There was a group of at-risk youth top-roping at Atlantis Wall one spring. They didn't realize how "at risk" they really were. Their "guides" had set up the ropes with one point anchors. One anchor, for example, was a single stopper. The "guide" had placed a cam over it to keep it from popping out of the crack. The cam wasn't attached to the rope in anyway, just sitting on top of the nut. Scary as hell.
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