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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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So many memories of so many friends and influences, then and now. How can I narrow it down to just ten? I'll give it a good shot...
No certain order...Wish I knew how to add photos!
Adam Dick - The man had an ape index of +6, at least, a real knuckle dragger and my first climbing partner. We experienced our first roadtrip before either of us could drive, and sent 5.10's in RMNP and Eldorado canyon before we knew what 'R' or 'X' meant, and lived to tell about it. He pushed me, and I him.
Robin Coleman - A Local fellow, climbed 5.11x like it was 5.6, smooth as silk and never made a peep. Pure in nature and the eyes of a wise old man. He brought an inner peace to my climbing, the movement of it all, the flow.
Bob Scheier - What a crazy man, good friend and passionate adventurist. I learned from his mistakes...on more than one occasion!
Dave McIntire - Wise and young at heart, Dave was always game for an adventure! Four wheeling through the desert or freezing our balls off on some lonely apine peak, a true friend...Where are you Dave?
Martin Suchma - Big man with and even bigger heart. Best climbing partner ever. This guy could lead anything as long as he had a few biners and three sets of booty'd nuts. Canadian all the way and a VW lover, traveler, Father, Husband and photographer. Hope to see you soon Bro!
Shawna & Bob Allison - Father/Daughter - Selfless and giving in every way, taught many people over the years about climbing and the climbing life. Miss you Bob! Shawna, you are still climbing smooth, just get it into that over-protective head that you CAN lead it, you sent it on T.R. blindfolded!
Jeremy Collins - Yes, I remember the noob in you, but the desire in your eyes, the unwillingness to accept defeat, and the motivation to keep pressing on. Master of the heel hook, heel edge and heel useage in general. Master artist and a joy to have around. Someday I need you to teach me your skills, like I once did for you, but I like yours better!
Petr Beucek - Great pal, great roomy, great beer drinking partner, great climber and teacher of the 'knot placment' techniques that we here in the good ol US of A never learn becasue we won't stand for it! Great to have as the rope gun when the pro is sparse and the rock less-than-bomber! Hope you are still traveling about the globe. Miss ya!
Pat Warren - Who needs foot work, right? I mean back then, it was all arms, big man Pat. Now I admit times of self-induced golden showers mid-route while following this lad up some Tuolumne trickery...but still have the white-knuckle grip as I belay...remember that groundfall in JTree that I was so kind as too coushion for you bro!
Burgess Zbryk - A man of few words, traveled in style, introduced me to New Years at Hueco Tanks in the 80's. Full-on VW van, pimped out road trips....once accross Kansas, dead of winter....I remember the 720 we did in the van on I-70, many spins and controll regained...all that was said was 'Nice Recovery'.
Mike Stites, Clay Frisbee, Jesse Gross, Travis Donn, Mark Wilford, Kurt Smith, John Sherman..and the list goes on! Thanks fellas!
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durban
climber
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Dan Arnold - teaching me the ropes, being a great partner, and instilling good ethics when I was starting
Ronnie Cecil - irreplaceable friendship and encouragement.
Peter Croft - if I could pick one climber to be, it'd be him.
Clint Cummins - the epitome of generosity in a selfish sport.
John Long - his tales of jtree and tahquitz made my own backyard suddenly seem like a wonderland, and i learned a ton from his how-to's.
Jeremy Meigs - helped me become a better boulderer, and proof that you're never too strong to be the friendliest guy around.
Rob Miller - getting me in shape, keeping climbing fun, and showing what it means to try hard.
Joel Ruscher - same as Jeremy.
Justen Sjong - helping mortals reach big goals; the best teacher of climbing because he's its best student.
Joachim (Aki) Wuendisch - the partner whose ability and boldness I was always in awe of, and always laughing with (or at).
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Jamie Bludswurth, Scott and Tim Gossard, Randy Trivet, Mark "Petch" Peitrolungo, Tad Steele, Cade Lloyd, Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Garbarini and Jon Blair. As well as Tucker Tech, Brian "the Russian Peasant" Warsaw, Andres "Chili Dog" Zegers, "Bringing beers"Bob Nolen (and the entire Humboldt Stone Ascentionists), Sean Plunkett, and of course... Grant Hiskes!
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Polar Sun
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Fritz Wiessner nearly summited K2 in 1939. No oxygen, boots probably made by his local cobbler, wool clothing, cotton shoelaces, 5.8+ climbing--maybe harder, at 7,000 meters. This would have been the first 8,000 meter summit in history, some 11 years before Herzog and Lachenal's fiasco on Annapurna, and 14 years before the heavy metal blitz of Everest by the Queen's "army."
Were it not for the alleged accidental dropping of a crampon by his Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama, they would have summited and fast-forwarded Himalayan climbing two decades into the future. All ideas about the possible would have been expanded.
And,if memory serves me correctly, the expedition had only seven members, porters excepted.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Honor and praise to the following:
-Warren Harding
-Steve Schneider
-Kris Solem
-Herb Laeger
-John Barbella
-David Hickey
-Dick Sykes
-Chuck Kroger
-Glen Dawson
-Dingus Milktoast
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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1. Marvin the Marvel,
He is the first person to take me climbing and teach me how to tie a figure eight.
2. Bob Kamps for spotting, teasing me, and being a kind teacher.
3. Aaron Sandlow for taking me to my limits and pushing me beyond.
4. Jeff Lowe for taking me out to ice climb! Having a chance to do this is blowing my mind!
5. Cosmic, because he is a really cool partner to have. (Plus, Blitz and Locker since I never have laughed so hard during a climb!)
6. Copenhagen Dreamer, because I have climbed in Greece because of him. Who can beat that? Plus he makes trips to JTree always a pleasure.
7. Guy for getting me out climbing and being a great teacher.
8. Royal Robbins for his ethics.
9. John Long, his book on anchors actually saved me during one of my first climbs. (It was also the day I learned about the danger of climbing with newbies.)
10. Michael Reardon because he really loved living and climbed with such pure joy, you just couldn't have a bad day around him. I never met his equal.
AF
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Influenced and inspired by so many, including many mentioned here. I'll go with close to home.
*Scott Davis (Aid and attitude)
* Mark Wodtli (Climbing as poetry)
*Scott Kimmet (Laid back man, climb hard but don't take this S#@T too seriously)
*Rob Lesher (Hard core, let's do another one)
*Keith Royster (Fast and light, no prisoners)
*Bob Williams (get the SYSTEM down)
*Mel Johnston (Make sure everything is right)
*Mike Seizys (The sufferer)
*Bryan Schult (Got the pipe?)
*Jim Anglin (solo attitude, keep it humble)
*Scott Burk (We can do it in a day and laugh the whole time!)
Too Many honorable mentions.....Thanks guys.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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In no particular order.....
Shipton
Messner
Bonatti
Weissner
Robbins
Frost
Kamps
Bachar
Porter
To round out a baker's dozen just add Jello, Kor and Barber.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Many already mentioned, mostly for me though...
The Cozmic Banditos - Bruce Birchell, Mel Johnston, Keith (Royster)Stevens
Mugs Stump
Ken Embree
DM
Jim Bridwell
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Risk
Mountain climber
Minkler, CA
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Besides my dad:
Royal Robbins - A childhood idle I got to sit next to at Me-&-Ed's Pizza Parlor, 1960’s
Wayne Merry - Basic Rock Climbing, YMS 1960’s out of the Lodge Lounge closet
Anton Nelson - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
George Whitmore - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
Tom Gerughty- YMS accent of Mt Lyell, 1968
Rich Calderwood - Sierra Club outings, 1960’s
Warren Harding – First hung out with him after the 1968 South Face Half Dome rescue at the Tuolumne CCC Lodge (YMS then), draped in a blanket, feet in a tub with hot water.
Mike Corbett – Dozens of “after work” climbs, 1980’s
Walt Shipley - Horrendous risks taught first hand
Richard C. Brown - Classic mountaineering inspiration and timeless vision of the passion, almost as much as my dad.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Other than the first entry, these are in no order:
Bob Kamps.
When I first moved to California in 1981, I went to Stoney Point. There I met Kamps, and he gave me “The Tour.” That is a day I will always remember. Of course there are many other such days too. Mr. Kamps was The Class Act in climbing.
John Bachar.
We used to follow him around Josh when he did his circuit. It was inspiring. He moved like the great ballet dancers I used to watch in NYC all the time. There is something magical about being able to move well, and at the same time do it in such a way that your pleasure in the moment is expressed to others.
Hidetaka Suzuki.
I had the privilege of climbing with him a number of times. He was very powerful and bold. Anyone who knows me has heard the story: “Klis! Klis!! …Edging shoes be much betta!!!”
Dave Mayville.
Anyone who knows Dave’s story will understand why he is a hero of mine. Also, I remember when he started climbing. And why he got the nickname “Too Strong.” But then he figured out what his feet were for and the rest is history.
Ron Carson.
When I started to try to do some of Ron’s routes my world was rocked. Climbing in the Needles when Ron was around was like being in the intake of a jet engine.
Erik Erikson.
Erik taught me the value of truth in climbing. The importance of being straight – so when you say something others will trust your word. He is the real deal. After an ascent of Astroman (yeah, we each took one fall on one of our leads,) we were walking off and Erik says “So, we come back and try it again next week?” I just kept walking, and he says “Well, you’re not satisfied are you?” We came back and did it spic and span.
Jan McCollum.
I hesitate to mention Jan here because I know it will just go to his head, but all sh+t aside, that Dude is motivated. Cranks. And is a whole lot of fun to hang with. I might have done my hardest climbs with Jan.
Clark Jacobs.
Clark was always an inspiration but recently even more so. Enough said.
Darrel Hensel.
I don’t know Darrel well; we’ve met from time to time. I have watched him climb a lot though. He is truly a master, and fun to watch.
Johnny Woodward.
The author of many of the hardest boldest bad assed climbs around is one of my personal heroes. And he is a climber who knows about style.
edit: Since the question is who influenced you the most I have to go to eleven and add he name of Rob Brown, who introduced me to wall climbing when we did Mescalito. Also he and I have done a bunch of F.A's I would not have been privy too except for his generous spirit.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
send me on my way
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royal robbins - he spoke in one of my classes at school. plus, he's from a totally different background than a lot of climbers and he still made it.
walt shipley - he's bitchen. he had dinner with us once in tuolumne. he had twinkling eyes. have one of his quotes on my helmet. "see you in the next world. don't be late."
warren harding - harding's chimney is still my favorite climb
steph davis and
heidi wirtz and
lisa rands- pretty badass for doing all that solo roadtripping you read about them doing. that's HARD when you're a girl!
peter croft - i love his stuff on high sierra climbing!
cedar wright - i used to see him around the valley when i worked there, but i didn't know anything about climbing or the climbing subculture, but later on i was influenced by some articles of his i read when i was first getting started.
ammon mcneely - go speedster go. all around badass. 'nuff said.
tupac shakur - for telling it like it is
heidi pesterfield - for being strong, and local
joe simpson - for "touching the void"
jonny copp - "excuse me but can i be you for awhile"
stacey allison - i love her book
munge and DMT - sph 08???
the reno boys - for making me feel relaxed enough to get more confident on the rock.
quese IMC and culture shock camp - their music has gotten me through long journies
the native photographer dood we met in jtree - you're my hero dood. let's go climbing. if you see this, drop me a line.
i think that's a lot more than ten, but you know how i feel about math.
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Barto
climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Eleven, chronological, sort of:
1. Pete Wagner: In 1979, his pullup routine cranked him up to 5.11 and revealed two things: that training makes you better and that I was years from 5.11. Zen dirt-bagger too.
2. Pat Padden: Minnesota climber (FA: El Cracko Diablo, DT) Because he was the real thing: looked cool, spoke quietly, and climbed fookin' great.
3. Batso: DOWNWARD BOUND introduced me to two things: gallows humor in climbing and a climber looking badass.
4. Dan Murphy/Hobo Dan: Because he tried (and tries)to remind me that flowers and nature and crap like that should to be looked at on the way to a climb.
5. Sean Toren: Co-conspiritor on my first trip to Yosemite; unflagging belayer and devoted friend when things (like my meniscus) tore; only man I know tough enough to break his own thumb pulling down hard.
6. Mike Law: Because he wrote the hilarious Arapilles guide that admonished us all to "Fail going upwards..."
7. Mick Lovatt (GB): Super strong Brit who invited me to England (and Verdon) in the 80s where I made friends, met icons and found that the welcoming community of climbers exists worldwide.
8. Todd Skinner: Because he made climbing a great mission.
9. Tom Kalakay: We did my "greatest" climbs together. I'm indebted to him for his sound judgement and fearlessness--and for his willingness to shine the bullshit detector on me.
10. Bachar/Moffit/Edlinger/Barber/The Bird: Beacons to places, climbs, and levels of performance.
11. Kamps: Because he was an ace model of how to be an older guy: mellow, sly, moving on the rock forever.
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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I Can't believe that I've forgotten someone who definately had an influence on my climbing career as well as the way I live my life... the late great WALT SHIPLEY! One of the greatest climbers that ever was! I miss you WALT, our birthday is coming up, January 16th. I'll have an Olde- E ready for you my friend!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Tracy Franks (RIP) Took me out my first time at Spire Rock
Bill Dockins Montana legend and route pioneering afficienado.
Jeff Morris Showed me how to "work" and RP harder routes.
Joel Waltner The ulitmate "Yeah, I'm game for that." partner.
Tom Kingsbury For helping me to appreciate the expanse of the Boulder Batholith.
Chandra Easton A beautiful kind spirit with a passion for life.
Molly Dewar Encourages me to do what I love.
DFS Slacker extraordinaire and friend for life.
Brian Hagerty The dedication master.
John Wayne Haney For showing me how to be a father and a climber simultaneously.
edit: Barto, you put a smile on my face mentioning Kalakay--a Montana legend on par with Dockins and overall good guy.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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I can't put Walt on my top ten list, since I only had the chance to climb with him for a few minutes once. Of course I remember those minutes well. It was a sport climb in the ORG. My partners for the day were workin' on something and Walt saw me kickin' around and introduced himself, asking if I wanted to do a route. He let me go first, and I got about 4 or five bolts clipped before I pitched off. Walt did not really catch me, but slowed me enough that it didn't hurt when I got to the dirt. So he went up, but spaced and did not take any draws, so he just skipped the rest of the bolts. I think it was that Ned Guy's.. thing just right of ripoff.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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John Bachar
Just watching him could make you climb better. He would put it out there everyday, for all to see with no tricks, mirrors or Photoshop. Showed me what you could do with some sport specific training. Steadfast in his beliefs and ethics, and could back it up. Mental control.
Dick Cilley
Early mentor. Taught me how to drink ("make the bubbles go..."), toprope, and do the Wide. Big fan of the "take your uniform off" ie: climbing clothes, when going to Happy Hour. A shower out of a pan of water and some fresh clothes will keep you next to the Fajita Bar longer than your smelly buddies in rugby shirts. Source of great quotes. Do a 'Taco seach for proof... "tape is aid" comes to mind. Snappy dresser.
John Long
Ho man! Only guy I ever met that was actually bigger than life. Pioneer, powerhouse, and spleen busting funny. JL is the only guy out there that can get a 5.6 punter up on a 5.9, freesolo style, and talk him to the summit. "Casual Babe... you got it!"
Mike Lechlinski
Boldness and power in one package. Made it ok to put giant 5.9 runouts above 5.11 cruxes. "If you can do the 5.11, no way you should fall on the 5.9"
Mari Gingery
A perfect example of how those things on the end of your legs are for more that stuffing up someone's asss on the internet.
Warren Harding
Drove a Corvette and had chicks... who can argue with that?
John Yablonski
I've never seen anyone try harder. Yabo would pull so hard, that every vein in his body would appear on the surface of his skin, trying to escape the pressure demanded by the effort.
Jim Bridwell
What can ya say. Bad Assssss™™
Werner Braun
Makes Ernie Banks' quote "It's a beautiful day for a ballgame... Let's play two!" look like slacking. Werner flat out goes climbing. Always liked the way Werner would not suffer fools. hahahaha!
Walt Shipley
There is a lot to be said for soloing above your lead limit. The torture of "Shipley Drive" is something to behold. Self depreciating, probably never even knew how bad asss he was.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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My dad, James Evans, had me climbing at Stoney at age 5 and took me up Tahquitz, Middle Pal, Bear Creek Spire and more by age 10. He died when I was 11. We had planned to do Whitney together. His love for the Sierra is in my DNA.
Jim Angione- belayed me for a couple of thousand routes while I learned to lead.
Todd Gordon-called me from Lukachukai (out of the blue) to come and climb the Titan and a secret FA he and Brian Povolney had down in Canyon de Chelley. About 800 FA's and spires followed over 30 yrs.
Layton Kor-when his book came out it was God.
John Long-showed us nubies the ropes of Yo Valley survival, a real human being and possibly the strongest man to ever live. He still treated me as a friend after Guns and I denied him on Moonddance.
Rick Lynsky-together we could climb any wall.
Eric Ericcson-Eric is the worlds best unknown climber.Noone lives to climb and climbs to live more than E.
Royal R. and Doug Robinson- for the reasons mentioned above.
Maria Cranor-the definition of a wonderful person. She is the most well loved person to ever tug on rock shoes.
Margy Floyd Evans- my girlfriend and wife of 26 years. She made it possible.
Yes, a list of only 10 is tough. I would like to list most everybody I grew up and climbed with. The so cal scene back in the day couldn't be beat. The Stonemasters, Sheep Buggerers, Uplanders, the San Diego posse, all of you inspired me.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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These are the folks who helped me stumble up to this point:
1. The Marte' family for teaching me to climb in the mid 70's and to let me know that climbing is a very dangerous thing to do BUT that you should still do it
2. Thom Nephew/Bonnie Nephew-Thom for his amazing animal spirit and Bonnie (RIP) for her precious honesty and for showing that you can bring the family along
3. Bart Cannon aka:Barto for being from my hometown and going large out West, for driving me nuts with his driven personality and for singing as much of Tangled up in Blue as I-90 would allow
4. Chris Heck for being from my hometown and being able to go West and have an awful lot of fun while flailing on the rock and laughing at ourselves
5. Steve Araiza aka: Gumby for doing some good routes that we were'nt sure we should have been on
6. Steve Angelini aka: On the road with Steve for being fearless and for those great times in the City of Rocks
7. Jamie Duffy (RIP) for kicking me in the ass in the Valley and letting me know that maybe just maybe I could play in these reindeer games. Wish you were stil here
8. Tom Anderson for being an old groover who keeps on showing up around the mountains and still keeps bringing it
9. Kevin Fosburg because he could be really smart and still laugh at life
10.Shawn Callahan for training with me and getting me to do some routes that I never ever would have done without his pushing me
11. Jan Ebeltof (RIP)for showing that drugs and climbing can co-exist. Personnification of style for me in the 80's.
12. Dave Pagel for his contagious enthusiasm
13. Mike Williams/Mike Jackson/Tom herwig and the old gang from EMS- St.Paul
fact is the best people I ever met were involved in kayaking or climbing and I feel pretty damn glad I got to meet you
murf
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
one summer dream
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Jan 16, 2008 - 04:59am PT
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