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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jun 12, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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That guy in the yellow shirt, isn't his name really Mel? Or was it the Little Imp? Moaner?
"Oh man, there I was. Couldn't go up, couldn't go down. Didn't know what I was gonna do..."
A good route at Suicide that doesn't seem to get mentioned much: Disco Jesus. Good climbing, good protection, good overall route. IMO. Not the most classic route up there, but pretty darn good.
Edit: The Edge is good. And it does have bolts. And it would easily qualify as one of the select best at Tahquitz. But it probably doesn't qualify as well protected per the OP. Same with Rebolting at Suicide, I would say its one of the best at Suicide in that grade range but it doesn't seem to fit the criteria.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 12, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Its a sport climb right? I saw bolts/bolted anchor. Thats sport.
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fairweather
Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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The Step at Tahquitz back in the days before it was upgraded to 5.10a. I hadn't been climbing very long when I did it, and it was very humbling. I figured if that was 5.8, I may never get up a 5.9.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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There are so many good/great routes up there. No one mentioned The Iron Cross 5.11.
Here is Dave Tapes (Wonderly)on the first pitch.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I've always been very partial to Pink Royd. One of my favorites.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Where are you from? What are previous multi pitch trad (gear) routes you have done? What are your route finding skills? Slab, crack skills? Comfortable with trad pro and setting up trad belays (no bolts)?
Tahquitz and Suicide are generally runout. Longer routes on Tahquitz need route finding skillz.
People here are steering you to some pretty stout climbs.
Graham Cracker and the Guillotine are 5.6 and 5.8. Traitor Horn is 5.8/9 and pretty fun.
Based on what you have provided it would be prudent to start on easier routes.
Suicide sunshine face has some good bolted stuff but they are runout; some you are over 30' up before the first clip and 30' to the next.
Have fun and be safe.
edit: just noticed the OP date. never mind.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Graham Cracker and the Guillotine are 5.6 and 5.8 Thinking about heading up there one Sunday to take my daughter up the former (and maybe the latter). I haven't been over to the north side of Suicide for a few years but remember it getting more and more crowded every year. Is it pretty assured to be a zoo? Unlike Josh, you don't always have the option of just walking and finding something else further from the road.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Fat Dad-
Been ages since I've been there. I'll leave this to those more in tune with the current situation.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Yep, the north side of Suicide can be pretty zoo-y on prime weekends...the far end is popular with groups.
Or you might luck out, and have the place to yourself. Have fun!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Thinking about heading up there one Sunday to take my daughter up the former (and maybe the latter). I haven't been over to the north side of Suicide for a few years but remember it getting more and more crowded every year.
BITD, if you started hiking up at first light you were good to go. Besides, you don't want anyone above you. Just my thoughts.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks guys.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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The last times I have been up there (read that as the last 10 years), at either rock, there have been virtually no crowds anywhere.
One rule. Do not start a route on the N side of Tahquitz with ANYONE above you....as far as the eye can see.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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One rule. Do not start a route on the N side of Tahquitz with ANYONE above you....as far as the eye can see.
Agreed, some very sound advice that I wish someone had given to me BITD. Had to learn the hard way. Loose rock + easy grades + bumbling noobs = disaster
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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The Troll (Dave/Kelly Vaught) on either Sundance or Valhalla. I think it was Valhalla.
No, looks more like Sundance.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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^^valhalla
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Sorry DE, but that isn't Sundance. You got it right the first time when you said Valhalla.
No Go Ledge is too far on the right side to be that directly underneath when looking down Sundance. Plus, there are no ribs like that on Sundance.
Edit: ha, got beat to the punch by a minute
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I knew you guys would know which route that is with the Troll!
Rob Raker on Zig Zags in '84, note swami and EB's.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I met the 'Troll' once time up at the South Ridge. Watched him press out some lowball mantle thing like it was nothing. He rolled on to something else and I tried the mantle that looked easy, especially after he did it.
I eventually got it but I was going, "f*#k!" How easy he climbed being how big he is was pretty impressive.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 22, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
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All the afore mentioned are so much fluff. This is the only route you need to do. Ofcourse the original flavor has chaned somewhat do to that old bolt being changed out....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 23, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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So either Ian took that pic the day we were up there or you've sandbagged us having done it previously :-)
That was quite a day. Turboflange / Edge, Bat Crack Laps / then carrying the headless body down to the parking lot (fact).
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