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murse
Trad climber
Nashville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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First trip to the aforementioned this coming weekend, what routes would you recommend? Looking for 5.8-5.11, the upper end if they are well protected. And how is the camping in the area?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 07:59pm PT
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Hair Lip 5.10a - don't remember it being horribly run, but not great pro either.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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The county park costs, but has bathrooms and big f'in boulders too.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
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I also prefer Idyllwild County Campground to the State Park. Taller trees, more space between sites generally, and bouldering.
You'll have to give us more criteria than ratings to narrow it down. Too many quality routes to mention in that range.
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murse
Trad climber
Nashville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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looking for multi pitch, trad, preferrably with minimal R, and no X. But stellar single pitch routes would be great as well if there are several in the same vicinity.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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To recommend Hairlip ou of all the routes there... That's pretty funny. LOL.
I'd say this. The span between 5.8 and 5.11 up there is huge.
Among my favorites in each grade are:
5.8 - Suicide - Guillotine (kind of serious though.)
5.8 - Tahquitz - Mechanics route.
5.9 - Suicide - Flower of High Rank.
5.10 Tahquitz - El Camino Real
5.11 Suicide - Well it would have to be Valhalla, but don't fall on the second pitch crux...
5.11 Tahquitz - Chingadera is historical and can be histerical too and is well protected. Hit in in end of the day shade though.
That's just a few off the top of the head so to speak. Camp for free and boulder at the south ridge trailhead. Inquire at Nomad Ventures for beta.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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When you say "trad," do you mean gear only? There are very few sport bolted routes, but a lot of really good bolted face climbs that aren't X rated that I would put in the trad category because of how and when they were put up.
But assuming you want to plug in your own gear, but don't mind a few bolts:
Consolation .9
Illegitimate .9
Super Pooper .10a/b
The Vampire .11a
Dave's Deviation/Piton Pooper/Royal's Upper Arch combo .9/.10a
El Camino .10a
Traitor Horn .8
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
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The Open Book is the first 5.9 ever put up. It's a great climb and
very well protected. It is sustained and solid 5.9 but it is a classic and it's a Robbin's route. Did it a few weeks ago and really didn't need the big stuff. You can easily get by with pro to 3 inches. Double or triple up on 2s and 1's. Human Fright (10a) is great and well protected. Fingertrip 5.8ish was fun and pretty mellow-do the 5.8 lieback variation on P1.
Frustration over at suicide was fun but the pro was work and it's only 1 pitch.
As far as camping the rangers there apparently like dirtbag climbers.They were super cool to us. You can camp for free but to keep them happy pull a fire permit.
Watch out that place gets uber crowed on the weekends. We climbed on a wed,thurs,fri and saw almost no one. On sat
there were 100 $%^^&ing cars in the lot.
have fun, I'm off to the meadows....
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
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Don't miss Insomnia. IMO the best crack climb at either place.
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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If you have the opportunity to do some aid, the X Cracks are worth a go. Exposed and overhanging, I remember being a bit upset merely following and cleaning Right X.
"....you sure you got me?!" etc. lol
Dunno if they go free. Maybe, but they're likely high end.
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onyourleft
Social climber
SmogAngeles
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Jun 27, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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With the closure of Williamson, Tahquitz is ever more popular. Wear a helmet. Rockfall is still common. Bring a headlamp too. We foolishly got benighted three pitches from the top on "Whodunit," thanks to too late of a start, and slow parties clogging the route. The nighttime finish and hike out were almost fun, almost.
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Echo
Trad climber
San Diego, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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Daves Deviation was a really fun route, although it came recommended that we only do the first pitch... So thats what we did... Even still, doesn't take all too long and is a very fun route!
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 27, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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And for Pete's Sake bring lightweight approach shoes!
omg....memories of the hike up to Taquitz in way undersized Fire's, feet bleeding....but you just ignore it.
No need, bring sneakers; easy enough to clip em to your sling.
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murse
Trad climber
San Clemente
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
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many thanks for the beta.
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Thom
Trad climber
South Orange County, CA
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
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Doesn't anyone climb here anymore? Jeez...
Here's your "must do list"...
Tahquitz:
Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn finish 5.7/5.8
Long Climb (with direct start on Wong Climb) 5.8
The Illegitimate 5.9
Open Book 5.9
Whodunit 5.9
El Camino Real 5.10a
Human Fright 5.10a
The Step 5.10a
Super Pooper 5.10a
The Vampire 5.11a
Chingadera 5.11a
The Green Arch 5.11b/c
Suicide:
Flower of High Rank 5.9
Sundance 5.10b
Iron Cross 5.11a
Valhalla 5.11a
Insomnia 5.11b/c
Several more routes worth doing (routes on the Weeping Wall, for instance) but if you've limited time the "must do" routes above will leave you happily trashed at the end of your visit.
Enjoy,
T.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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THom knows it.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:41pm PT
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All you looking for cragging experiences with out the crowds need to check out the Big Bear area get the hidden treasures book from Brad Singer. Should be a new version comming out soon. Awesome crack and sport climbing. Somebody post some pics eh.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jun 27, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
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Does anyone climb here anymore?
Jeez man. I'm up there all the time. The poor sod said he was looking for 5.8-5.11 and at least implied not to bold at the top end. Iron Cross at .11a is a good bet must do for him for sure then, eh..?
Using a 3 star max rating, Thoms list should look like this:
Tahquitz:
Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn finish 5.7/5.8 **
Long Climb (with direct start on Wong Climb) 5.8 (no stars at all. loose and a waste of time.)
The Illegitimate 5.9 *
Open Book 5.9 ***
Whodunit 5.9 ***
El Camino Real 5.10a ** (would be 3 but it's really got one good pitch..)
Human Fright 5.10a *
The Step 5.10a *
Super Pooper 5.10a *
The Vampire 5.11a ***
Chingadera 5.11a **
The Green Arch 5.11b/c *** (unfortunately this fine route has been the scene of scandalous over use of pitons.)
Suicide:
Flower of High Rank 5.9 ***
Sundance 5.10b **
Iron Cross 5.11a *** (one of my faves, but most likely 11b to lead well.)
Valhalla 5.11a ***
Insomnia 5.11b/c ***!! The pitch to send in Idyllwild. Unless you are up to the harder one's.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jun 28, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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I'd add the Daves, Piton Pooper, Upper Royals Arch link up.
Illigitimate is two good pitches and then lots of 5.easy.
Nothing loose on the Wong/Long, I'd give it ** at least. Sahara Terror classic but some looseness to deal with. (Ask around why the alternate name is Farewell to Arms).
Mechanics is a must do for historical reference if no other reason. Think about doing it with nothing bigger than a ring flat piton, tennis shoes and a hemp rope.
Suicide
Suprise,10K Gold (maybe a bit on the bold side)
Surpentine and Revelation beter protected alternatives.
I'd give Sundance *** do the Sundike finish.
You didn't say where you are coming from. Depending on past experience your rating scale may be in for some adjustment.
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reddirt
climber
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Jun 28, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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hope I'm not the jerk who messes up the width of this thread but here goes. This was, I think, my first climbing on slab (Serpentine)... then I scooched up th side to take this shot of my partners.
btw, Fluoride, per our conversation outside the little girls' room at the original sushifest, I'm game for doin' Mechanic's the clean or dirty whenever you are ; P
jpw
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