Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
|
|
I'm not chiming in on these particular bolts, but I'd urge in caution bolting anything within the public's eyesight in a wilderness area. It's important to remember that we have our own arbitrary rules on how and where bolts are placed that have nothing to do with how the public perceives them. Small groups or even individuals have managed to shut down bolting in wilderness areas before and could easily do so again (i.e., the Superstitions and the ban in Idaho that eventually was overcome).
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
|
I've even removed bolts a time or two.
LOL! Say it ain't so!
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
The Big Moe will never be the same.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
|
#ColoradoCrack5x
|
|
aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
I think your best bet is to go directly to the offending party, and take the tack that bolting on a public hiking trail can lead to complaints by hikers, and a shutdown of the whole area or at least restrictions and unnecessary politics with the Park Service; it has happened in other places, etc.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
Just finished the fa of a five pitch route in the park.
I'm guessing that was with a 40' rope. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I've never seen anything in JT that was over 3 pitches. I'm not a local and have not spent as much time there as some. Five pitches with a 160' rope equals 800 feet.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Perhaps a traverse of the Astrdomes?
|
|
Highdesertman
Trad climber
jtree ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
|
Five full pitches amazingly enough. I've never bolted a slab ever and I've never bolted a single climb in the wilderness that i'm aware of so theres no commonality whatsoever.
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
What’s wrong with bolted slab climbs? More than half the bolted routes in the park would be considered slabs.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Five full pitches amazingly enough
I think Right On has been considered the longest route in Josh? Three long pitches, four if you do a short one along the way. Figures on Landscape is three. Solid Gold is three. Do tell, om what formation did you find five long pitches?
Inquiring minds need to know...
|
|
Garboni
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Either the OP doesn't understand what a "full pitch" is or perhaps he has difficulty with basic math.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
5 pitches? Must have bolted the Gunsmoke Traverse. Hanging belay every 20'?
PS- I confess
I chopped that bolt on Double Cross.
|
|
BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
|
|
Nov 1, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
I think Right On has been considered the longest route in Josh? Three long pitches, four if you do a short one along the way. Figures on Landscape is three. Solid Gold is three. Do tell, om what formation did you find five long pitches?
Inquiring minds need to know...
I think in terms of length, Right On (550 feet) is the longest route at Josh. I believe the longest steep route (near vertical) is The Gunslinger, a 4 pitch route I did with Scott Cosgrove in 1990 on the North Astro Dome, which is slightly longer than Figures On A Landscape. Gunslinger has 4 pitches (5.12b, 5.11b, 5.12b/c, 5.12a).
In terms of pitches, the route with the most pitches, and another candidate for the longest steep route at Josh is a route called New Lattitude, which is a right to left girdle traverse of the Sentinel's West Face, which I did in 1994 with Dave Mayville, that has 6 pitches, although a couple are short ones due to rope drag issues: 5.11d, 5.10d, 5.11b, 5.12a, 5.10b, 5.11b.
My guess is that Dino's new 5 pitch route is a girdle traverse of the North Face of the Snickers?
|
|
Loco de Pedra
Mountain climber
Around the World
|
|
“if you spray it, they will come”
|
|
Highdesertman
Trad climber
jtree ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2017 - 09:55am PT
|
Trauma Traverse 2nd pitch goes at 5.9 100ft.and share the anchors of crime of the century. third pitch 80 ft.at 5.8. 4th pitch 80ft.5.9. 5th pitch goes at close to a hundred feet at 5.9. with three different ways to finish this route. 1 black bolt on todds route is used and one bolt on bobs route is utilized.I had just led this first pitch and that's my buddy at the other end following the route. Start on the young tree route and go straight up rather than going right as for young tree.
|
|
BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
|
|
Looks like a cool route!
|
|
BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
|
|
It was on the last pitch. I was at a hanging belay. Scott was on the lead fiddling around trying to drill a bolt about 30 feet above me and dropped the hammer. As it whizzed by me I was able to reach out and grab it as it fell. Saved the day!
|
|
cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
|
|
Wow
a five pitch traverse
you boulder too much dino!
traversing is the bastard stepchild of climbing
5 pitch routes usually require more than a single 50m rope to descend!
don't get me wrong,...love jt
and snickers n face is a cool hang....
pretty sure we climbed there together years ago with my lady friend
good times
|
|
Highdesertman
Trad climber
jtree ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
|
Hey bob I've been meaning to ask you for some time now, was that your handkerchief with a rock on it? Few years ago.
|
|
BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
|
|
Nope
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!