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Highdesertman
Trad climber
jtree ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2017 - 10:28am PT
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So a very special area of the park is under attack. Less than two weeks after an ill advised face book posting of a bouldering area I've been climbing at for over ten yrs innocent slabs have started sprouting bolts with anchors! Right on a main trail through the wilderness. Didn't take long to discover it was a few local boys who had seen my face book posting and went out to see what I was up to. I don't believe Joshua Tree needs any more bolted slabs period. But most especially in the wilderness. About five bolted slab routes with anchors have been drilled up so far and I cant just sit by and watch the total trashing of an incredibly beautiful place. I want to chop these routes but its so damn much work I cant do it by myself. Any locals want to go bouldering and chop routes at the same time? The local boys responsible for this travesty should be the ones to clean up their mess but I doubt this will happen. These guys are going to get defensive as they try to rationalize what they have done. And if the park service wants to know where these routes are I will be glad to show them what's happening. And at that point I will be saying some names cause I know who is doing this. I've tried to establish some dialog with these guys but they wont return a call so oh well chop, chop, chop. Signed with good intentions Dino Banco.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 10:32am PT
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So go chop them, talk is cheap. There are Jtree Rangers on here, so they know. If this hurts you so bad.
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Highdesertman
Trad climber
jtree ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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Talk is cheap. Your response is proof of that!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 10:44am PT
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So go to the park HQ and drop the dime!
I’ll give ya a lift if you need one.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 31, 2017 - 11:01am PT
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If they are real climbs and FAs, whats the problem? Rap bolted or on lead? Difficulty?
It's never a good idea to involve the government.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 11:04am PT
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Obviously, you are so hurt by all the trauma these bolts create, go chop them, big talkers are weaksauce. Mr, Pebble Puller.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 11:07am PT
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If I find bolts were they don't belong, I don't post a rant on ST or anywhere, I just go chopping not shopping for attaboys/support on the net. so sad.
Bet you never even tried the new rigs, could be good climbing?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 31, 2017 - 11:16am PT
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^
+1 Jeff I've never chopped a bolt but agree if you're gonna do it, do it without ranting on the net and do it in good style. Getting public officials involved can only lead to bad things.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
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1) he's a climber, and whoever put the bolts in is also a climber. Complaining to authorities only hurts climbers
I don't think he is a climber, I think he is a boulderer
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
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I like bouldering routes not pebbles.
PS Maybe the OP is bummed he lost the race to the FA of those rigs.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
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It you are bolting boulder moves, shame. I was out at JT recently and saw former 20-30 foot boulder moves that are now sporting bolts.
C'mon people. Pack up your kit and head out to Queen Mountain etc. There is still a lot of obscure rock that has route potential. Do the work.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
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New route Not Queen Mt lol
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
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And if the park service wants to know where these routes are I will be glad to show them what's happening.
If you follow through with that then you are causing WAAAY more problems for climbers than the people who placed the bolts.
But if you want more rules and regulations for climbers then go ahead :/
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
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That is what I'm talkin' bout. Virgin patina. Looks great.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
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New route not Queen Mt. lol
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 31, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
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No statement by op that he has direct knowledge it was placed by power.
Please clarify op.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2017 - 01:08pm PT
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^^^1+ nailed it!
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Murf
climber
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Oct 31, 2017 - 01:47pm PT
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You've put up a ton of routes in the park as well.
So what is actually your beef; the area, bolting method, the bolt placement, the bolters? I'm pretty picky as well, so I'd enjoy knowing more details.
Murf
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 31, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
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Are you talking about the two new bolts on the Triangle Boulder N. Face??
Travesty....
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Oct 31, 2017 - 03:14pm PT
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I remember when Gaines placed bolts on the face right at the parking lot at Split Rock. Laeger and I removed them and gave them back to Bob. He was not happy about it! But he understood why we did it and never put them back. There are places where we would rather not see bolts but an hour into the wilderness probably isn't a problem.
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