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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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see if the slab traverse goes at a modest standard, say 5.10b/c.
ELITIST!!! If it's not 5.5 we should put bolts in every 5'. (sarchasm off)
Moderate or not, I think some high end free climbers should be up there if it gets rebolted. If there's going to be a bolt ladder it might as well follow the natural route for a change.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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If there's going to be a bolt ladder it might as well follow the natural route for a change.
The original route seemed rather natural - if circuitous - to me.
Tamara poses the most interesting question to my mind. In 1957, this climb broke new ground. While we think of it as a trade route now, it was quite elitist when first climbed. What, if anything, is worth preserving -- the "trade route difficulty," the cutting edge climbing, or something else?
John
Edit: I think El Cap expresses my own feelings pretty well.
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
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Hola mi Americano Dogs!
The wall es back in the action by muy bold Espania hombres! No Americano could do so bueno route fix and rename of old classico route to nuevo standards! Bueno suerte mi Americano dogs as not hombre in USA has huevos of size rechoired for escalde ascent
Salut! Viva Espania!
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Pelut, I can't understand a thing you are saying because of your accent. It's gotten worse.
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c wilmot
climber
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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do you have to clip bolts to free climb? Can you not just skip them if you want the challenge?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 15, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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The original route seemed rather natural - if circuitous - to me.
Agreed, wasn't referring to this route in particular, was actually thinking of the one in the pic below.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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I agree with Will that it would be dumb to ignore close free climbing possibilities while bolting it.
I free climb 5.10 these days, but 5.13 doesn't look impossible to me, so I'm not sure about that line of reasoning.
Sure, ideally it would be great if someone like Mikey Schaefer would be in town and up to do it.
But I suspect most of the 5.13 granite FA folks are off climbing elsewhere in mid summer.
(P.S. I hope I'm not the clown! :-) )
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Thanks.
I'll admit - I didn't think City Park or the Great Roof would go free.
But being wrong gives a chance to learn! (Wouldn't want to get Half Dome wrong, of course).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Pelutted is back. Viva Trollo!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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IMO, that route (or, pitch) is GONE. To try and bolt to recreate it really goes against the precepts it was formed on.... the idea of clean climbing...."
Well, I think its good that intermediate level climbers can climb up the face of half dome. A long moderate route with one or two really hard pitches in the middle would not be a good route. I liked the idea of going left into easier terrain if this is possible. (I have not actually done the route) Then if someone wants to free climb the "direct" face, feel free. But also keeping style in mind and making something that other people would want to repeat. On the other hand if there is really no work-around, and the only way up is to bolt something, then I would go for a grade more in keeping with the rest of it. Is your dad not interested in this at all? At one time he was especially interested in climbing ethics and this would be a good time to weigh in. - Paul
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Highlander
Big Wall climber
Ouray, CO
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Heard there was more rock fall up on the Dome today, it may change a little more before it's all said and done.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Or another team decides
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reason
Big Wall climber
Fort Collins Co
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Jul 16, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Just hope whomever re-establishs this section takes into consideration the over all route and that the Regular Route is very popular moderate route, this should be reestablished in that spirit. If the climbing on the new section cannot be aided and ends up being in the 5.10's there should be bolts added so it is possible to aid the route. It would be tragic if moderate 10 climbers where shut down on this moderate classic. I am a moderate 5.10 climber and have done this route two times. It is a very special big wall.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 16, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Regardless of where this thread on Supertaco goes, we all know that a bolt ladder is going to be drilled.
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tahoemnts2
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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How did Honold free this section? Just follow his lead...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 16, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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Agreed Lambone, and since we know it will likely be freed again as well, just advocating that they follow the likely free path.
If that means aid climbers have to go sideways instead of directly from point A to B, so be it.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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The only place on Half Dome for moderate climbers is the cables? That seems a bit elitist and dickish...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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They've got snake hike too
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Listen to all the goobers on here begging for an easy variation. You don't know what's up there, and what's offered. If someone goes up and puts up a new variation, and you don't feel comfortable climbing the variation that is established then either you don't climb the route or you go up with the intention of finding something that suits your skill level as an FA variant.
I hope whoever has the balls to step up to the killing fields up there puts in something free.
As Piton Ron said "Bonnati Pilar" haha.
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