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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Jul 11, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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The next King Swing!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 11, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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It will be a real game changer if somebody makes it 5.12+ slab, instead of an aid ladder or something.
One of the great "moderate" routes in the world could be no more.
I'm glad I did it when we were only climbing up to hard 10/ easy 11!!
We tried to free as much of the Zig Zags as we could, but didn't try and hang out and work moves and stuff. We just did as best we could onsight and slipped comfortably into aid bits.
But a desperate, mandatory free section would change all that.
What is the best thing for the community as a whole?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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CoZmic's Anasazi Variation!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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It's not like it can't be fixed if someone truly f*#ks it up. I don't think anyone wants to be known forever as the person who screwed it up. Uhm.. James isn't in the valley right now is he?
Meh whatever gets done is gunna be argued about ad nauseum though...should be fun.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Cedar Wright will climb it first .....
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 11, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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What would Robins do? Got to go to the man for permission.
Funny question.... why is chipping holds somehow more offensive than a bolt ladder? Just asking.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jul 12, 2015 - 01:46am PT
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paging Caldwell and Jorgeson - please report to the base of Half Dome,
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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It's a big wall route that has some aid climbing for the VAST majority of climbers. Keep it in the same vein.
Those earlier posts about slab climbing....the ONLY climbers who talk about slab climbing are from Cali and North Carolina.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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As far as the Direct goes
Whoa, wait a minute! I've missed something...AGAIN!!
The Direct is falling off too?
Correction: IS no more. I was talking about the 5.9 C-1 format, c'mon bro!
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Cragman, I belive that Jerry Gallwas was 19 years old and single when he did the First Ascent of the NorthWest Face of HalfDome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick. . .df
Edit, in fact I think that he was living at home and discovering the Dirtbag life of Climbing. .
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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With all the technology today, is there any way to glue the ledge system back on?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Sure, there's some modern structural epoxies that might hold up to 50 years until UV degradation sets in...
Before that, though. You go to the base and start dry-fitting the shards back together. Should only be a few million of them.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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With all due respect to Royal Robbins and Gerry Galwas, the pitches they established and climbed do not exist anymore. As such, it is not for them to decide how a new section of rock should be climbed.
But, I have faith that a suitable replacement of the lost pitches, in keeping with the character and popularity of the route, will eventually be established.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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A "reasonable" variation should definitely be one of the considerations in my mind.
I mean, a few thousands of 5.9 guys have done it, including Royal Robbins, let's go.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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This is an iconic route and some thought needs to go into reestablishing it so as to maintain the original character and grade if possible at about 5.9 C3. Royal, Jerry and Mike did their best and we need to do ours now with clear focus on the lasting quality of result. At least until Big Sandy becomes Little Sandy LOL
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Bonatti Pillar.
Shlt happens.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!