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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:49pm PT
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Hahahaha.....that's pretty funny jb.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:52pm PT
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Wow!, First people complain that there are not enough climber related topics. Then they attack the climbers that they wish they themselves could climb in the same league. I dont get it.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
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I think it's the heat and our brains are fried..... Maybe, with temps like these, there should be some sort of auto-response our bodies go into, like hybernation.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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So dirtineye, If I read it right, what you said was, that if he told you he was a liar you would believe him?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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Spock logic bomb: "Everything I say is a lie... I'm lying"
From the Harcourt Fenton Mudd episode. (?)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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darnit Jaybro!!
Y'all sure do pay attention.
'nothin' slippin' by on your watch.
bwa.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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Hahahaha ......
Good one Tarbaby and Jaybro
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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the statement on the other side of this paper is true.
the statement on the other side of this paper is false.
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joeblow
climber
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
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"The Emperor's New Top Rope" hummm?
What we all saw that day was, a film crew, waiting to film a free solo of the Vampire. Reardon being lowered down, inspecting the route. Then hanging like laundry, screaming at the top of his lungs "TAKE" dozens of times while attempting to toprope the route. Then not soloing the route. With Mike Lechlinski holding court at the base.
You know it's been a while JB, but I don't seem to remember you using those type of tactics
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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I found the crux to be that first pitch. Pretty easy for me at the time. I found the 5.11a at the second pitch easy, but the 10d on the third way hard.
Its funny buy when I did the flakes I was able to reach past the crux and the 5.11c felt like 5.9. Ha, Ha.
But technically whats the big deal about the Vampire.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Crimpie,
I know its a little late but, do you know anyone in the legal field that deals with Slander cases? They might find some clients here on ST.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:16am PT
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My take on it is the guy is soloing right at his limit and taking chances.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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I've seen him a few times at Tahquitz. I've never seen him pull anything harder than mid 10, BUT! given his confidence and abillity to scamper all over that rock, at high speed, at that level, I wouldn't doubt his ability to dig down and pull off something truely cutting edge. He also puts common sense above arbitrary route descriptions. For example avoiding sketchy slab moves when other alternatives are available. Being a master of "off route" "cheating" at a much lower level, I appreciate that.
I don't know what he's capable of or even care. There is no one else climbing at that level at Tahquitz on a regular basis though, not even close.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:37am PT
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RLF- (BTW, what route/problem is that picture?) I believe it's crowd pleaser on turlock at stoney.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:38am PT
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Hey, I wasn't there so what do I know but here's a couple points to consider
There is an 11a thin, thin slabby traverse on the Vampire. I don't care how hard you can hang on, a really hot day and delicate slab moves don't go together.
Also, Reardon has a twisted sense of humor and has remarked before about being "Witnessed" struggling on a rope while on routes he supposedly soloed. The "take, take" could have been a bit of theater.
But that wouldn't explain, if true, why he would have let down a film crew expecting him to solo the Vampire.
But, if he really couldn't do it, why would he agree to go there and be filmed in the first place.
Lots of questions, who knows?
Peace
Karl
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todd-gordon
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:40am PT
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I like Prince's music too, John.......His new album has alot of funk stuff on it...and the one song with the kick-ass guitar solos.......he is brilliant....the pants with the butt cut out WAS alittle too much, but never stopped him from playing to kind leads. We are over due for a music session, John......it's been awhile....
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:43am PT
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It must have been so f*#king hot at Taqhuitz on Sat. I did the first pitch in the cool shade. If it was above 95F in the Sun I could see him not doing it.
Give the guy a break, he is one of the best climbers I have ever seen.
Juan
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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Two weeks ago on Fri. there was a nice thunder shower early in the day. On Sat most of the routes were dry. In fact the Vampire was dry, except where the bird feathers and other stuff had washed out of the crack. Nothing to worry about while on a rope...
soloing is different. Mike never fell on the rope. I think after cleaning the crux holds, he did all the moves clean, two times. Mike decided to wait untill Wed. The video is awesome!
Wes
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:56am PT
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JB - Prince is the comensurate showman,good singer,writer arranger and PR manipulator. But (Todd) as a guitar player (lead) he is comically over the top,affected,self indulgent and gets fuzz box tone. Sorry totally OT but they started it.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 02:22am PT
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Al Dude....you may be right about Prince's guitar playing.....My point IS .......I'd rather talk about Prince than M R.........(Give him some slack... he's got short man's complex........I'm still talking about Prince..you know...)
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