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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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This problem needs to be on every self-respecting climber's bucket list. Maverick's. So named because the thing feels like a wave that's crashing over you, and it was discovered just after Mark Foo's death at Mav's. It gets the big Thumbs Up from ever climber who's seen it -- all 12 of 'em!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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Meanwhile, 20 miles away in Capitol Reef...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Looks really awesome out there, BVB.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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And then there is The Horn, the Crown Jewel of Wayne County Bouldering and world-class in it's own right, a mere 90 minute drive from Big Rocks, 60 minutes from Capitol Reef, and arguably the most remote bouldering area in the United States. Indeed, Wayne County -- a land area the size Rhode Island, with less than 2,000 residents -- might be the ideal bouldering home base for a quiet, private, humble, introverted man like me.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Gud stuff BVB.
This prob is still looking for a second ascent.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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sw0le!
Keep 'em comin', Bob!
+1 on the DRL Tour.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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DAMN Larry! Gonna havta train up for that sh#t.
Meanwhile, back in Capitol Reef...believe it or not, this thing is hard and feels high. Your feet are on the top before it's over, after a horrible insecure mantle. That hold I'm grappling is the world's worst sloper. I mean really, how often has anyone seen me heel hook?!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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But seriously, shoulden't we just hop in the car, drive ten minutes to Torrey, pick up a latte and a copy of The Book Of Morman, glance back east where we can see the Horn, 50 miles away, in a high saddle of the Henry Mountains, then drive another 15 minutes to Big Rocks, and check out that bitchin' Rose Move on Mavericks? We just picked up 2,500 feet of elevation from the Wingate red rock country of Cap Reef, and are now on the windscoured high desert of the Awapa plateau. If there is a more abrupt 30 minute transition in bouldering environs anywhere, I've never seen it. Now about that Rose move...
As you can see by the disarray of gear in the background, this was another family outing. Hanna is exploring caves, Kyles is looking for arrowheads, and Jocelyn is behind the lens. Family Values on the high lonesone plains! Spotters? Bitch, please. My feet are only 15' above the ground.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Way to show some LOVE, Big Stone! $$$$$$$$
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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I just love the wee ones, Steve. I mean, the BIG STONE is alright and all, but who can pass on the pebbles?!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 25, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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E-mail sent, BVB! Someone may go Off!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Alright Eric! If he does it, and does it with brutal honesty, we'll be either heros of the year or the prime candidate laughingstock inductees in the n00b epic Hall of Fame. Cross yer fingers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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We all know that the Pebbles ain't right without the Bam-Bam and that's where you come in player!
I always wondered what you did to entertain yourself when you ran aground on Capitol Reef for a few.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Not a concern, BIOTCH. The urban support center for these areas is the thriving metropolis of Torrey, Utah, population 200. Torrey is a 175 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store, and the nearest Hospital with a Level I Trauma center is a 250 mile lifeflight ride to SLC, 500 miles when you consider it's a round-trip flight. In retrospect, the stuff I was doing -- alone, kinda hard and highball, landings sometimes not so good, no spotters, way out on 4X4 roads, years before cell service arrived in Wayne County with Jocelyn having at best a vague idea of where I might be -- well, it was sporty. I would not trade those years for anything. The place is so far from anything it will never have a scene. the Happies it ain't. Funny story: it was late Spring 1996. I'd been climbing at the Horn for maybe three years pretty regular without ever seeing another human. I come back into camp and there are two guys standing there. I'm in total shock. I walk up and very abruptly ask "WHO ARE YOU GUYS?!" No hey, howareya, whatcha doing, nothing. It was a pure Checkpoint Charlie "PAPERS PLEASE!" moment. As the words are ejaculating out my mouth I realize it's Woodward, who I had not seen in a bit. I go "Oh, sorry Jonny, it's just I've been climbing here for three years and have never, ever seen anybody else. Ever." Jonny can see I'm in shock, and knows exactly how to minister to my needs: he pulls a bottle of Lagavulin 16 out of his rig and offers me a fat one. We spend the evening gossiping around the fire while he ensures my glass of Lagavulin never gets too short. Woodward is a total class act. It was a great weekend.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 25, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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Yeah Larry, that last pic is probably kinda how I came across.
And now, Welcome to Torrey. Seriously, this is it. That line of trees on the left is the town's very charming "main drag." We brought a killer house here with a one acre Orchard for $80,000. I'd move back.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 06:01am PT
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A quiet ,private, humble ,introverted man.I´ve never seen a better description of myself.See you there this summer.Hows the hitchiking?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
Here's a nice warm towel Cilley Dickens...LOL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Bvb,
I have to say Torrey, Utah, looks awesome. Very fine Boulders and full on beautiful crags to climb. Great find.
Not to forget to mention, it looks like great paragliding off the mesas and flying thermal and ridge lift along the aprons. Looks like plenty of large cattle fields for LZs to land softly in. Kind of reminiscent of Torrey Pines, San Diego, for flying but just way inland and no waves. I bet in the right conditions a free-flight pilot can get really high there and go really far.
I too like finding great places where I can really do all my favorite outdoor adventure activities and no crowds. Looks really nice.
Shalom.
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