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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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Thanks Send. This is the news:
"Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the feat at about 6 pm local time, scaling the famed peak in the Karakoram range, which lies on the border between Pakistan and China.
The news was relayed by noted climber Artur Hajzer, coordinator of the programme Polish Winter Mountaineering in the Himalayas 2010-2015.
“The summit has been conquered!” Hajzer hammered out on his Facebook page.
“It will be possible to speak of the entire success of the expedition when the team returns to base,” he added, noting that the climbers have to make a rapid descent as night is falling.
Nine mountaineers took part in this year's expedition, which was led by legendary climber Krzysztof Wielicki, 62, who came out of retirement for the venture.
Wielicki was the first climber in the world to make a winter ascent of Mount Everest, and the fifth to conquer all fourteen of the world's “eight-thousanders” (peaks over 8000m).
Broad Peak rises to 8047m, but has only now been conquered during the winter season.
Various members of the team attempted to scale the peak over the last few weeks, but winds, among other problems had prevented success until now."
Congrats!!!!.....
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Anejo
Ice climber
Yukon
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25 years ago, almost to the day, Maciek Berbeka has reached Rocky Summit. So as of today he made it to the top - Broad Peak. It is his third winter ascent of the peak over 8000 m (Manaslu and Cho Oyu in eighties). This guy is 59 years old. What a FEAT! Congratulations to Maciek and the whole Polish Team!!!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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"Considering all the circumstances, conditions, my experience, history of Himalayan mountaineering, knowledge regarding physiology and high-altitude medicine as well as consultations with doctors and co-organizers of the expedition in Poland, I have to declare Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski dead.
Taking into account the time that has passed since the last contact, altitude where it took place, their condition, current weather conditions and all other factors, I have to claim openly that both climbers are dead.
The expedition has come to an end. We are packing the base camp and start to descend. March via the Baltoro Glacier will take approximately 5 days. We will come back to Poland on approximately 20th March. Due to lack of electricity, we will not have any possibilities to maintain contact via telephones or e-mails and thus, the will not be any information about us till approximately 15th March."
Krzysztof Wielicki
Leader of the winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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RIP.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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my condolences to the friends, and families.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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Voytek Kurtyka presented in Vertical Sept-Oct 2012
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Polskie Himalaje - Annapurna 1987 - Winter - texted in English.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Polskie Himalaje - In Memoriam - Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943-1992) - texted in English.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Wanda challenged the Polish hardmen the same way as Lynn Hill challenged Americans when she freed The Nose.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2014 - 04:14am PT
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What happens if you bring some of the worlds best alpinists into the same room for a group interview?
That's what the French climbing Magazine Vertical did in October 1985. Those present were Wanda Rutkiewiscz, Eric Escoffier, Voytek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, Pierre Beghin, Doug Scott and Reinhold Messner. Here's the article translated and published in Mountain 109, 1986
Posted here on the Polish climbing thread because two Poles are involved - Wanda and Voytek.
There's an interesting take on the funding of climbers - receiving money from the State or not.
The Italian is not willing to take money from the State - the possible fascist State. But I think most Italians would be willing to receive money from one of Berlusconi's firms even with the possibility of Mafia and corruption involved. Italians don't trust the State. They have been governed by a bunch of infighting principalities, by Spain, by Austria and by France. They have to rely on themselves and the fox Berlusconi at least was seen as one of the people. After all, the idea of self-made man is really Italian, not American. Being in the pockets of corporations is good. Being in the pockets of the State is bad. Americans and Italians are similar in their views.
The Poles are willing to receive money from the State. Money from the State is money from the people collected through taxes to be used at purposes that serve what's common good. In Norway people would think in the same way. Being in the pockets of the State is not bad and not much will be asked for. Norwegians will take money from corporations too...
And the French? Pragmatics: They'll receive money from the State or from corporations because they need them, but if you ask them what they think, they'll say: "...but I don't like the money..."
Lol...
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Jan 25, 2014 - 06:03am PT
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The irony of the article above is that the majority of the people interviewed in it are now dead...
Wanda Rutkiewiscz- 1992 - Kangchenjunga
Eric Escoffier- 1998- Broad Peak
Erhard Loretan- died in the alps in 2011...
His credibility was greatly tarnished though, after he was convicted of manslaughter for the death of his seven-month-old son...
Pierre Beghin- Annapurna 1992
The mountains sure have an appalling death toll... Especially when you are pushing the limits....
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jan 25, 2014 - 08:20am PT
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Bigbird,
Yes, and had that lightning strike on the Walker Spur in 1975,been a little more direct, Voytech wouldn't have gone on to the greater ranges, and I wouldn't be typing this.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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The Gasherbrums are lonely - Voytek Kurtyka in Mountain 97, 1984
The remarkable traverse in June/July 1983 by Voytek Kurtyka and Jurek Kukuczka of Gasherbrum 2 and the ascent of the South-West face of Hidden Peak - followed by friendly ravens...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 19, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Why them Polaks so crazy? Why couldn't they just stay home and get rich?
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MH2
climber
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Feb 19, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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^^^^ Which parts of Poland have you visited?
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Feb 19, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
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Andrej and others,
Thanks for the insight about some accomplished, well rounded climbers.
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Feb 19, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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Bruce-
My bad if I came across as disingenuous, At the time I was not into climbing. I remembered the headlines and not much more regarding the matter. But "new sh#t has come to light", and my opinion has changed.
Another video featuring Wojciech Kurtyka....
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Lots of interesting stuff on that utube channel...
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