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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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Wojciech Kurtyka
"His climbs in Poland consist of many difficult climbs – in crags, the hardest free climbs and free solo climbs of the time. In the Tatra Mountains he did a lot of first free ascents, first ascents in winter and established new winter routes.
Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway, the highest vertical cliff on the continent (4 men Polish team).
He started in Greater Ranges in 1972, completing a little known – but important according to him – first ascent of the wall of Akher Chogh in Hindu Kush, in lightweight, alpine style. He started climbing in the Himalayas in 1974. After participating in two big Polish national expeditions in 1974 and 1976, he gradually turned to lightweight expeditions.
His teammates were such world-class Himalayan climbers as, among others, Alex MacIntyre (1977, 1978, 1980, 1981), Jerzy Kukuczka (1981, 1983, 1984), Doug Scott (1993, Nanga Parbat attempt), Erhard Loretan (1988, 1990, 1991, 1997), Reinhold Messner (1982, Cho Oyu winter attempt), Yasushi Yamanoi (2000, 2001, K2 and Latok attempts).
The ideas of minimal equipment and support even on the most difficult walls and highest peaks was included in his philosophical concept of the "path of the mountain".
Kurtyka's and Robert Schauer's (Austrian) climb of the West face of Gasherbrum IV in 1985 was selected by Climbing magazine as one of the 10 most impressive climbs of the 20th century (including rock climbing, bouldering etc.).
Besides being a climber, Kurtyka is author of many articles on climbing published in Polish and English. He is also an inventor (around 1980) of the local Polish grading system of free climbs. This system uses an opened scale, called "Kurtyka scale" or "Krakowska scale"."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wojciech_Kurtyka
Version texted in English:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Be free to post material concerning Polish climbing and climbers - the bravest among the brave.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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Marlow, you're gonna cause Philo to hyperventilate.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Bernadette McDonald. Freedom climbers.
Ed Viesturs about Polish climbers when "Freedom climbers" was published: “For many years, we in the climbing community have stood in awe of the accomplishments of Polish climbers. Relatively late into the Himalyan game due to political and monetary restrictions enforced onto them within their own country, the Poles sought the mountains as their escape. It was in fact the hardships they endured within Poland that hardened them physically and emotionally to seek out and endure the toughest climbs in the world. Freedom Climbers is a very enlightening and captivating look at the Polish climbing superstars, what drives them, their amazing accomplishments and their continuing role in pushing the limits in the mountain arena.”
An interview:
http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2011/12/15/freedom-climbers-polands-legendary-mountain-explorers/
On Supertopo about Freedom climbers: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1658855&msg=1659501#msg1659501
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Reilly
Because of Wanda?
Or is it Poland?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 15, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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My language filter isn't working.
I can't understand those videos, they're speaking Canada!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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Both
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Survival
It doesn't matter. Even if they speak incomprehensible Canadian there is a lot of excellent pictures, film and music. You can even hear Barbara Streisand sing "woman in love" in American.
The ambiance, the ambiance...
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Gene
climber
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Jan 15, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Our own Regan is keeping the Polish hardman/suffering tradition alive and well.
I love the stories of how Poles bitd left town with 2 lbs of cheese, 4 lbs. of chocolate, a pack of chewing gum, and about $0.35 in hard currency and somehow manage to trade and travel their way to Nepal or Pakistan, knock off three 8,000 meter peaks in a season, and fly home first class. Fine folks, indeed.
g
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 15, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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Those dudes were REAL hardmen. Freedom Climbers is a great read.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Aleksandra Taistra
"Which woman has climbed more 5.14b routes than anyone except Josune Bereziartu (who’s in a class of her own)? It’s not Liv Sansoz or Beth Rodden or Martina Cufar. The answer is Aleksandra “Ola” Taistra of Poland, who just redpointed her third 8c (5.14b): Die Hard, a bouldery monodoigt testpiece at Grotte Gabbio, near Fenrentillo, Italy. In 2004 and 2005, Taistra completed two 5.14b routes in Poland: Power Play and Nie dla Psa Kielbasa.
Taistra, 25, is not the only Polish strongwoman. Last year, Kinga Ociepka, climbed the 5.14b Geminis at Rodellar, Spain, at age 20."
Cosi Fan Tutte 8c+: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67495
Climbing an 8c
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Moose
Great stories! Are there any photos of the viaduct climbing?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Krzysztof Wielicki. Crown of Himalaya.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Moose: Cool, thanks for posting.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Jura Kraków-Częstochowa
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!