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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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frickin brilliant chappy! i was wondering didnt pete minks climb the strand with you guys? love to hear about some of his antics on route.
cheers!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Wonderful share. The pics are great given when they were taken.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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Amazing post with some cool photos
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Mees
climber
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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thanks for posting those and kudos to such an amazing historic ascent.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Thanks, Mark and Kevin! Awesome!
At that time, we'd read about ice climbing in the Rockies, and it was sort of imaginable. I mean, at least it was cold, and stuff there was reliably frozen, usually too frozen. It was hard to fathom ice climbing in sunny Yosemite.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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GAK!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Wow, great post Kevin. Somehow I knew you'd get on here and weave a better yarn than Chappy. At least more complete. You didn't disappoint.
He always was kinda the strong silent type......I guess that makes you the court jester? HA!!!
Both of you on the same thread, with pix from the FA, old skool.
This is what makes Supertopo special, every damn time.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jan 11, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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TFPU
Three days on one piece of ice in Yosemite, with those tools and gear, between the 2 of you. YIKES!!!
Did you have a reliable forecast or just a wing and a prayer?
Much respect due to you two.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Wow, amazing photos and trip reports. This thread rocks and is as cool as ice!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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^^^Best post of the year for warblers last paragraph.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:18am PT
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I always knew this as one of the most amazing pieces of Yosemite history, but wow, what a great read! Thanks.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 04:40am PT
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Fookin' bumpasaurus!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 08:51am PT
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Bad Fing Ass
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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Inspirational then and still is today.
Makes me want to dig out my army surplus woolies, my balaclava, my Climax, my Chounaird hinged croutons, and a couple of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and go climb something.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Me too. But then I'd have to be young and brave and light and hungry....
I better think about it some more.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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Great story Kevin !
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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hey there, say, the warbler...
wow, as to this quote:
We were so dirt poor back then. I remember discussing the photo situation before the climb - either we could buy one roll of film and pay for the processing, or buy two and hope somehow to find the money at some point to have both developed. We had nowhere to go at the end of the Fall climbing season, so we stayed in Camp, and just barely had enough food to eat. Film was a total luxury item.
folks now-a-days can hardly imagine, yep, choosing between food and film, and for the preserved history, that we now see--GREAT discision over rumbling bellies...
also:
i loved the THRIFT store part... :)
and--love hearing your write up, to add to marks, :)
great team!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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You and Kevin, were kind and humble BITD, and I always looked up to you guys when I was a younger climber.
I think they still are, Coz. I haven't seen Chappy in years, and I doubt that he knew me, although I certainly knew who he was. He, Kevin and I are about the same vintage, but Kevin and Bullwinkle actually condescended to let me hang around them on occasion.
I still remember when I heard about this ascent. I'd already "retired" to work full-time while simultaneously going to grad school "full-time" -- that didn't leave much time to climb. I didn't know that Kevin did ice climbing until then, and from his posts, it sounds like he didn't until working on this route! It was a phenomenal achievement, and Mark's and Kevin's posts make this thread a real gem, for which we can all be grateful.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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You and Kevin, were kind and humble BITD, and I always looked up to you guys when I was a younger climber.
I agree.
Why didn't you turn out more humble too Coz? heh heh....
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Really cool Chapman.
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