Discussion Topic |
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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The weather looks awesome now and for the next 7 days. Will it hold through the 25th? I hear you can get some crappy weather roll in. But weather be damned. Just bring the right "Shit".
TONIGHT
Partly
Cloudy
Low: 42 °F
SATURDAY
Sunny
High: 69 °F
SATURDAY
NIGHT
Mostly
Clear
Low: 45 °F
SUNDAY
Sunny
High: 76 °F
SUNDAY
NIGHT
Mostly
Clear
Low: 46 °F
MONDAY
Sunny
High: 78 °F
MONDAY
NIGHT
Mostly
Clear
Low: 48 °F
TUESDAY
Sunny
High: 80 °F
TUESDAY
NIGHT
Mostly
Clear
Low: 46 °F
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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i think kruk is free...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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I could pass along a phone number Steve, but problem is, Cinnamon does has an obsessive compulsive disorder regarding stainless steel poles and shedding clothing, otherwise leads 5.11 A3+
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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How goes the hunt for a partner Steve?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Good luck, Steve!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Steve- I did the Competitive Edge (aka Real Nose) with Charles Cole in 1984 not Jay Ladin. It features some very spicy free climbing in the 5.11+ range including the wild connecting pitch with the Nose up high. I pulled out all the stops on this one.
Did you free the pitch moving left off of the top of Armageddon? Solid 5.11 friction way out from the short line of bolts starting the third pitch.
The topo that Gerberding and company sent in to the Reid guide doesn't show several of the pitches that I did free on the FA. You can tell my leads by the 3/8" bolts on them.
The long crack pitch leading into the Yarding Slot on the left side of El Cap Tower in really good once you negotiate the opening moves leaving Entropy Ledge.
The interesting aid pitch with the strange square holes in it that you already have fixed we called the Head of the Charles.
Find a very solid partner for this one and have fun!
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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methinks that Genesis is alot easier than this route.
EE
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Does anyone have a topo in digital format, that they would be willing to email to me?
I would like to get a good look at this thing, so I have something tangible to keep me up nights.
Burly Bob
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That isn't a topo, it's a joke...but then so is Sloan (aka Nanook).
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Yes, like that. Thanks plaidman. A little rough, but good enough to get me turned on. Weeee.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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So...
What's the pin rack?
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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plastic surgery disaster would be a way better choice of route for this time of year.
EE
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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None of my leads took more than a couple of pins. Charles was less commited to clean climbing than I was.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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wow, i fekked up my history on this one, don't know how i thought jay ladin was involved.
yeah, i've done minimal free climbing on this one, except when it made sense. i led armageddon with 10'-12' draws, basically toproped it into submission. but i did free up to the first bolt on the third pitch, instead of lowering off some dicey rivet way up there.
probably be looking to aid anything that looks easy to aid and hard to free.
it's definitely harder than genesis already.
time to go meet somebody i hardly know and go send this route, shipoopster
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Have fun up there Shipoopi! Live it up!
Yo Steve Grossman,
Is there another topo for this route? lol, last time I checked people are climbing 5.14 on El Cap these days, and also doing super hard aid climbing, so maybe you should reconsider your 'all climber's would have to be worthy of my 5.11 testpiece before I will release a topo' attitude. lol, also love the 'Charles wasn't into clean climbing as much as me' line: does that mean that someone might want to bring more than free shoes and filed down rps to climb this route? Are you saying your partner just climbed any old way he wanted?.....sounds very familiar in Yosemite,lol.
If Steve(who has climbed 5.13 for those who don't know him) finds a way to aid something that you freed, will he have climbed the route? Will he have passed your test, or will he have passed the test of the Stone? Will he have tried to re-create your experience, or will he enjoy the experience of the mountain today? And if you never shared a topo of your route(I don't know if you have or not but I know you didn't for other El Cap climbs and from your post it sounds like you didn't) how will he know what your experience was anyway? Man, lighten up a little. Yosemite is public land: share and celebrate it. The next generation is doing sh#t you can't even imagine, and guess what--they're reproducing too so it's only gonna get crazier ;)
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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weather looks great. Schneider shall storm the castle. Upon reviewing the reid topo for this route it seems a bit contrived. Sorta like a bunch of vaiations linked together to create a route - which seems significant of many of the hard routes on the capitan. There are many routes which are varients of 5 pitches or less which get a page in the reid guide. Always thought that the best ones were independant from start to finish. only the original routes are independant and there arent that many. Of the more modern routes only a few come close, Jolly Rodger and Sea of Dreams only have a few pitches that are on other routes-these ones come the closest.
Pacific ocean wall is perhaps the best independant line
yea I'm bored
E
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nanook- I don't support you or your guidebook effort for reasons that I have made very plain to you on several occasions.
The Gerberding topo on page 72 of the Reid guide doesn't accurately represent the route as it was put up so I have added to what is shown there.
Most folks are interested in the style in which a route was established and I have talked about this one a couple of times on the ST because I am proud of our efforts. Those free leads were cutting edge when I did them in 1984 and represent some of my best and boldest chalkless face climbing in Yosemite. Subsequent parties can OF COURSE do as they see fit as long as the route character is maintained and respected.
As you see fit to add bolts to 5.10 pitches on the the Nose without any explanation thus far and are more than willing to drive iron on C2 pitches, clearly style and respect for maintaining route character don't mean a damn thing to you. That is central to why you are unfit to do the guidebook to Yosemite in my estimation and hardly the only disqualifier. You are a line-of-least-resistance kind of guy so your position is abundantly clear and thoroughly uninspiring.
As for the rest of your little queries, you already know my responses.
Steve is an elite climber and may be just a little interested in what went into this route historically and wrote me about it not long ago when I was too busy to respond properly. He has plenty of respect for the efforts of guys like me unlike you. Quality effort is respected on El Cap and today's accomplishments build proudly on the past. If you had any depth of character you wouldn't try to discount my climbing performance by comparison with a standard that you have never remotely approached in your own efforts.
Only mediocre talents are threatened by excellence and so it is with you and Pete and a handful of other clowns who demand to be heard and have so little to say and nothing of consequence to contribute to the Captain's tapestry.
Now I'm the one that's bored...
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