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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 18, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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I recommend a week day the weekends are quite busy.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 18, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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An obvious solution is a wire.
insert, rotate, set ..... viola!
Isn't that an old idea from ron olevsky?
????????
If you are talking about that removable bolt thing then that was somebody else but hey, I get blamed for everything else anyway,..
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 18, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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No.
With cams the pivoting causes podding. The scars get worse.
Ironically when I first climbed (and then renamed) Touchstone hammerless more than 31 tears ago many of the then artificially induced nut placements were smaller than #1 friends and had to be nutted, but when cams got smaller people too lazy or unskilled (likely both) just plugged in cams and now many of the nut placements that would have at least lasted much longer are getting podded out.
Just another example of selfish climbers with a sense of entitlement.
And all this talk of spreading out the users to "reduce" impact is disingenuous.
It doesn't reduce the impact it merely disperses it so that by the time we are all forced to acknowledge it then we are no longer dealing with an elephant in the room.
It will be the blue whale.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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And all this talk of spreading out the users to "reduce" impact is disingenuous.
It doesn't reduce the impact it merely disperses it so that by the time we are all forced to acknowledge it then we are no longer dealing with an elephant in the room.
So Ron are you saying we should just stop climbing on sandstone?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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Can I do it until I need glasses?
I don't think that quitting is realistic, but how much do we need to destroy before acknowledging that a new protocol is called for.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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All this discussion of scarring to the rock itself should go to another thread. Yes, it's a real threat. In the future it will be an important debate.
Here's a real and current threat to Indian Creek: as some of you know, the BLM has been considering a proposal from ATV enthusiasts to put a new ATV trail through Creek Pasture Campground. Latest is that the route is now re-routed away from the camping--yes, the BLM has been listening to climbers!--But it is now moved close to the Bridger Jacks themselves and Lavender Canyon. We have just a week or two to comment.
http://www.facebook.com/notes/friends-of-indian-creek/atvbridger-jack/383049398434785
Here, for non-Facebookies:
Hi All
If you recall, the BLM was considering putting an ATV trail through the Bridger Jack Campground. Everyone got together and wrote letters, and they saw that the overwhelming majority of people were opposed to this particular placement of the trail. They have rerouted it around the campground and we should all be pretty psyched about that.
However, when they decided to move it away from the campground, for some reason they also diverted it from its previous line on the west side of Highway 211. Originally it was to go up the Davis Canyon Road. The FOIC was not happy to have it there, but we recognized that the trail was at least being sent out of the upper reaches of Indian Creek Canyon where the ATV's would have been in close proximity to climbers. It seemed like a happy medium. The new routing, as shown on the maps found at the web site below, shows that the Davis Canyon Road is no longer the direction the trail will take. The new plan will potentially route it on the Bridger Jack Road, around the Bridger Jack Spires and into Lavender Canyon.
http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/monticello.html
We all love the camping at Bridger Jack and the beauty of Lavender Canyon. This would change dramatically with a heavy-use ATV trail into the canyon. There would be quite a bit of noise on the Bridger Jack Spires as well. We urge everyone to write a letter to the BLM office in Monticello and ask them not to route the trail around the Bridger Jack Spires. We have only about a week or so to get all the letters in. Remember to be polite... our BLM friends are pulled in many directions as land managers. You can send a letter to:
BLM_UT_MT_Comments@blm.gov
Thanks Gang.
Sincerely
Friends of Indian Creek
---------------------------- BLM's proposal:
http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ut/monticello_fo/_planning/indian_creek_2012.Par.95114.File.dat/EA.pdf
Kudos to Jim Donini for his efforts to herd cats.
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JBoydston
climber
Deep South
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Sep 19, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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How does a trail day posting degrade so quickly, oh yes, Ron took care of that.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 19, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Three posts a year and one of them is to flame me for decrying rock impact?
JB, I'm honored!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Alright...already, back on track....get your butts to the Creel Oct. 13/14!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Thanks for throwing this together Jim.
IC is really being loved to death since that pseudo guide book
came out and the Friends of IC have really stepped up to help
cover the damage. I'll be at Looking Glass that weekend missing
out on your party, maybe next year.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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There is also another work day September 29th some of us who can't make the October work day will be attending. Check out the Friends of Indian Creek Facebook page for more details on that. Seems to be a similar event including a fundraiser and BBQ as well. To bad you can't make that one Donini!
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JBoydston
climber
Deep South
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Sep 20, 2012 - 09:10am PT
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Ron,
I didn't flame you for 'decrying rock impact'. I did flame you for thread drift. I've done some work in access and constantly hear from people who are quick to point out the problems while doing little or nothing to find a solution.
I can tell you that land managers/owners tend to be very aware of internet forums such as this one and pointing out 'problems' will only heighten their awareness.
Have a blast at the Creek people!
Jeremy
PS - I just heard from BURT BRONSON and he'll be monitoring the event to make sure nobody's hucking TR laps on IHC in full chain mail armor.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Thank you Jeremy!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Thread drift?
Sorry. I must have messed up. Perhaps it was that word "stewardship" in the thread title.
Was that stewardship of access or stewardship of the resource itself?
Oh, and, sorry to be asking such unpleasant questions in front of those pesky land managers. What are they here for anyway?
(oh yeah, stewardship,...)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Both Ron, access and resource.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 20, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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Yeah. I know Jim, but so far the resource is all talk while ever so slowly the degradation continues.
Just remember when you next climb the incredible handcrack that for every grain of sand that wears out of it with your passage a baby chuckawalla dies.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Then come and add to the talk.....we start there, develop a plan and then actualize it.
I'm going climbing...ciao!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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And bring a chuckwalla!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 20, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Ron hasn't exactly invented a new issue, he's just persisting in Ronbo fashion in making sure that we think about it. Finding the right balance between conservation and recreation in parks and park-like lands, while protecting their values, is a near-Talmudic proposition.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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Post Facelift, pre IC Volunteer Day reminder!
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