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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 24, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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michaeld
Sorry man. I still don't see your commet re: the website. No matter anyway.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 24, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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Jerry took it down after his bolts were chopped
Once it is on the internet it is etched in stone, except for the pictures
http://archive.org/web/web.php
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 24, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Good luck finding routes at SL with no photos.
"It's on that one boulder with a tree next to it up the hill from the other boulder with the chalk on it."
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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(continuation of post 39 and 60) "ok fine, and you no doubt have surmised, from Bill, that my name is Rick. I think, for the time being, i will call you Mr. Witt. Now Mr. Witt, i'm struggling a bit with things. I know why Bill is here, he's my long departed friend,and i can understand that i have somehow been instantaneously transported, teleported if you will, here to Kyburz, but for the life of me i can't explain why the 400' tall maiden is standing where the loaf used to be and why exactly you,somebody i have never met, are here in my dream- i mean it is my dream isn't it"? "Well", he began,"up until this morning, when your friend Bill so rudely collided with me, i knew exactly what i was doing and why i was here, you though and all the other guys blasting me from the past will just have to figure things out for yourselves.You know mate, bolts are very expensive these days, and those stupid routes on those lesser rocks strewn around the hillside don't deserve the expense, they belong in the Maidens flanks.So on my way up to put in new eliminates i removed them all lickety-split.Ahh, the eliminates would have been things of beauty too;carefully sandwiched between routes on either side and taking great care not to step out of bounds even one inch to the left or right. I would have been Aiding too, to put in a nice shiny, if a bit scruffed, 3/8" bolt every ten feet.That would have made the eliminates accessible to the hordes from the gym, people who could appreciate their true merit".At this point i had a thought and interjected;" You know Mr. Witt, in the old days peoples names were derived from their occupations, and have you ever realized just how downright unflattering your two names in combination are- think about it, Nit Witt.Since you have, by your own admission, been Aiding to establish these "spectacular" lines why don't we just start calling you aiding or Aidin for short, and come to think of it why don' we add a Mc to your last name. Aidin McWitt has a more dignified tone to it doesn't it"?(to be continued, have patience please)
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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f*#k you stinkeye
and your big eager mouth
i' told already once upon a time,
with no rhyme that i
cant have a half say
upon the subject of
bolt chopping unless
they sprout next to cracks.
uh,
that probably constitutes a fairy tale, eh,
except the f*#k you part.
or hows this for blunt-square-edges-to-the-point-simple and concise,
you, stinkeye are one premium jackass.
see you at the crag, smite.
heres my face that stands firmly behind my words,
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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Good luck finding routes at SL with no photos.
But you can get a sense of the routes that have been put up, how about this
"Climb mostly on knobs. Closely bolted for the climber wanting to lead first 5.9 sport route."
dumbing down the 5.9s? What if I can't pull a 5.9, can I closely bolt a 5.7?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Or what if you solo 12+ face? F*ck bolts at Sugarloaf then? Can that person come and chop everything easy that they can solo?
If you don't like a route, don't do it.
There is no reason to chop someone else's bolts UNLESS:
The line was first done with x amount of bolts
There is a crack you can protect the moves with
I have a feeling it's an old guy with an ego who is upset the Loaf is not how it originally was back in the 1800's.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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I think the message is STOP FORNICATING the Loaf!
+1
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Just don't bolt them. You can climb them. Just no bolting.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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So far we have 1 whiner starting the thread,
Wegee stating that he would chop bolts next to cracks (AS HE SHOULD)
Ron posting a picture of some bolting atrocity which I hope has been chopped
Some idiot claim he'd shoot people because they chopped his bolts bolts
The statement that peeps should stop fornicating the loaf (funny and true)
And me sitting back having a beer ;)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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funny thing is Fatty,, theres TONS of bazillions of undone rocks and areas tucked away from the beaten paths so GO FORTH unto them and eeestablish ye-name! pioneer you aint if yur jabbin bolts into the lumps around the Loaf..
Ron but then they actually have to do some real work and it wouldn't get in a book..
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Pretty sure I know which route this was, but don't know what it's called. Here is my rough description of the location. Up the hill from midway rock (between midway and sugarloaf proper) is a boulder with a flake broken off on the downhill side forming a chimney. There is a (fairly new?) bolted line up said chimney. The uphill arete on this boulder (closest part of said boulder to sugarloaf proper) contains a short bolted line. Mainly used to access anchors for TRing?. I believe this is the route that was chopped. The first bolt (a pound in button head had a smashed hanger with a new bolt next to it (really ugly). There is also a new anchor at the top of the bolted chimney that allows one to not top out the original chimney route. I'm sure this description will make sense to some of you locals, and you can describe in better detail.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 24, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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(continuation of post 39, 60,76 ) About this time we noticed a USFS cruiser slow down on the highway below, its occupants examining our every twitch for the slightest sign of non compliance of the rules for proper utilization of federal property.The cruiser was equipped with all the latest gizmos and weaponry to subdue ,with extreme prejudice, any and all unruly forest land users. One of the LEO's was on the phone, no doubt to the legal department seeking any possible interpretations of the myriad of convoluted laws with which to charge us with and thence proceed to use all the cruisers aforementioned features, with extreme prejudice of course.Retreat seemed in order, you know out of sight out of mind, and we hustled uphill for the cover of the charred stumps.With the cruiser no longer in sight we turned our gaze towards the lovely Maiden. Bill spoke first, "Isn't that the prettiest little lady you have ever seen. You agree, don't you Mr. McWitt, and can i call you Aidin, it seems much closer to a proper name that a proud mother and father, god rest there souls if they are departed, would give their son". "yes, yes, i agree on all accounts, Aidin is my name and new routes be my game". " Fair enough" i said. "Aidin can you please point out all the new routes you and your buddies have put up over the last couple decades. And can you also please give a little historical narrative of when, how, and why each was established". Its funny how perspective can shimmer and change on the slightest of whims in a dream, reality becomes totally disjointed.I swear, standing there watching him use anatomical features, and the ladies various articles of dress as reference to locate and describe the many routes, that his visage and stature completely changed back and forth at least a half dozen times. Most of the routes i could stretch my interpretation of fair means, employing the techniques and equipment of there particular time, to include on a list that a reasonable person would consider legitimate, if not admirable.His descriptions of these routes, which made up the larger percentage , coincided with him appearing to be of equal stature to Bill who was standing beside him,and his face changing from the ridiculous neumanish features to that of a distinguished gentleman of his age.Other times, as he tried to justify routes that should have never been conceived, let alone created, i hung my head low mourning the rape of the poor, sweet maiden. At times like these his voice had that unbelievably irritating scrawl as the buckteeth chattered and the ridiculous ears quivered. (Thats it for now.I swear i'm getting close to the end)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 25, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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You guys are accusing the wrong person in bolting the sh#t out of the loaf. There are other people who bolt the sh#t out of every boulder around there. I do not think it is OP. Have some respect, and do not blame EVERYTHING you can think of on the guy.
Name-calling left and right, have some class.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2012 - 03:12am PT
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Dear Mr Sumner,
Can we keep the bit about the “distinguished gentleman of his age” and the “admirable” routes and cut back on the part about the “ridiculous ears” (how did you know?). Other than that it’s a fine tale and I sit in eager anticipation awaiting the closing installment.
Just wondering; in your vision does the 400 foot maiden wear a chastity belt?
Because I have a key!
Yours, moderately fondly
Aidin Mcwitt
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 10:09am PT
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GoMZ
If that is what this fiasco is all about, then maybe good for the chopper.
That "route" was I believe put in by Jerry and his wife? I never agreed with it either. Seemed like 5.3?
New anchor above the chimney? I suppose it will get used, but again, there was already bolts across the chimney that worked fine when extended with runners if you were looking to TR the chimney.
I'm the guy who put the 3 bolts in the chimney (GREAT repute by the way).
I couldnt place the bolts on lead so I free soloed it then lowered myself back in off the bolts that were across the chimney opening and scrubbed and bolted the line.
JKlatt gave me many screaming emails for having put those 3 bolts in the chimney as he said he was "saving the chimney for himself and had told others NO when they had asked him if they could bolt it". Guess I didnt think to ask Jerry first.
I put in the very minimum of bolts I think possible (3). He wanted 5 minimum. I told him "I don't care, do what u want" I did it how I wanted to (it's a "bold" 5.7 chimney... Lol). At one point I Was going to add a bolt just to shut him up (it was painted pink). Then I decided forget it.
Disclaimer:
I figure I'll just throw this out before it comes along.
I also have an unfinished route (started a few years ago) on pyramid rock. I think I'll get it done this year (few years of less climbing / divorce years). I get a well deserved reminder of this nice unfinished line from Aiden whenever we cross paths. I'm hand drillIng this route on lead. At one point I was told by these bolters that I should be power drilling as to ensure better bolts.
Maybe this will bring pause to some of the less than inspiring bolt lines that have been going in... Maybe not.... At the end of the day, it is just a hole in a rock.
Cheers
EDIT:
Ron, blow me. How u gonna protect the above chimney??? Maybe make some 4foot cams...
It could have stayed an 80' free solo... Chop 'em. I don't care.
YOU left these faces for us cuz it was the time you were in.... We are not staying in 1970.... Just not going to.
You guys had clean fresh cracks and few climbers.
Crags are now overloaded with long lines for clImbs. Different day man....
But I agree to your comment of bolting 5.3 etc.
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OR
Trad climber
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Late to the party here but....somebody bolted a 5.3?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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Bolted 5.3s??? Bolted cracks?? bolted chimneys?? Hell even the GYMS dont start someone out on a 5.3 wall... And if we "enable" those aspiring 5.3 leaders to use bolts,,what will they need when they reach the 5.11 grades- one shudders!
I am not a sugarloaf expert, but have not seen any bolted cracks or 5.3s. Can someone please give an example of a current route that has a bolt next to a crack (on SL formation. I don't know what's going on on all the boulders around. It's a mess from what I have seen) or has bolts every body length on 5.3?
nobody has said that in this thread VM...
Aidin McWitt is pretty disrespectful.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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I saw that bolted 5.3 slab (maybe 2d or 3a, ha!) by Sugarbun earlier this month when was there with Petch and Ron Vardanega. I'm usually pretty tolerant of other people's efforts. It is time and money to put them up. But I didn't really get the purpose there. Hmmm.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Vitality
5.3-5.4 = Bulbosity
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