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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Thanks for sharing those awesome picture Harry!
Awesome links Greg. I met Jasmin at the top of elcap, her and Evan insisted helping us carry soaking wet gear down from my epic.
Very nice people.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Nov 18, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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From 2004
Tom Descending from Serra V
Waddington from Serra V summit
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Great action shots Bruce. I'm guessing that shot of Mike down is around '89 and Jean, where she at these days. Thanks for sharing. Thanks to climblight also. I guess your next Drew.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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Wow guys amazing shots! I can't believe I missed this thread!!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Looks like some great adventuring! Does all the sunshine make those glaciers so big?
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Wow great photos and stories, glad this was resurrected, I hope it continues.
I spent the summer listening to epic Coast Range stories from members of the Heathens Mountaineers Club. They did a big trip into Tidemann Combatant area and theres talk of another in the near future. I'm gonna throw my name in for a spot in the heli
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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I got stiffed by a 3 day storm and iffy routefinding on this thing but would like to go back.
This big rig beside it is very nice too. Bruce Fairley and Brian Cruikshank climbed a route up the east face but the real deal on the NE pillar (right skyline) is still up for grabs.
And then to the south across Doran you have this range of granite spires where Clarke+Croft and then the Heathens have been scooping nice routes
The real good rock is on the south sides, and this pic is of the north sides. Sigh.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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Wow, as big Mike would say:
amazon shots
Some very cool stories too, beautiful peaks & looks like a bushwackers Mecca.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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Oops. Stupid auto correct...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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I did a couple trips into the Niut Range in spring with Don and Gord Betenia. Some good times there too. Rock is mostly sh#t but pockets of solid granite can be found.
I sure would like to get back in there sometime. It's a great spot for spring mountaineering and a very cheap flight since it's right in Whitesaddle's back yard.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 18, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Ya but what time of year was it? I hear in July it's a real slag pile.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
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So last night there was a special presentation at VIMFF on the new biography of John Clarke, by Lisa Baile. This John Clarke, that is:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Clarke_(mountaineer);
http://www.nsnews.com/news/John+Clarke+lived+climb+every+mountain/7558391/story.html
The book is called "John Clarke Explorer of the Coast Mountains" - which he most certainly was, with perhaps 600 first ascents from the mid 1960s to 1996. But also many first traverses, plus a lot of conservation work, for all of which he was awarded the Order of Canada shortly before he died in 2003.
You can read about, and order, the book at http://www.harbourpublishing.com/title/JohnClarke
There's a mountain named for John, which you can learn about at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WYMs7v0_B4
Also a 1995 documentary, called Child of the Wind, but it doesn't seem to be on the net.
The author, with the book.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Great stuff.
Not having any of my own ain't gonna stop me (I did ask permission, a few years ago).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company. Anyway, once he was in a more conventional job, and on leaving in May was asked by his boss "How come you work here, I own the company, but you get four months off a year?"
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 19, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Sadly the closest I've been to Wadd is flying over it. The YVR to Terrace afternoon flight gives you some great lighting in the summer.
Going up you see one side and flying back down you see the other sides
Sometimes the lighting is very good
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MH2
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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Cool pics!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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Bruce - I clean them off with my tongue.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 20, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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John liked to take 4 - 5 months each year, first for a long ski traverse, then for long foot traverses. As he commented, it tended to leave gaps in one's employment resume, although he often worked for his parents' stained glass company.
Here's something not really Wadd-related, but definitely John Clarke related.
It's true, he did work in his parents' glass business from time to time, but he occasionally also worked on a landscaping crew. On one of those gigs, his partner was a relatively recent immigrant from Hong Kong, whose main interest was clothing and fashion.
Those of you reading this thread who don't know John, probably don't understand the gap here, but John's idea of being well-dressed was to wear long underwear that had been washed within the last month. And his idea of sophisticated conversation was "I got a look at Pk 2,125 last year from across the valley, and it just HAS to be climbed."
So, of course, he told stories to his work partner. And the work partner -- whose idea of adventure was going to a nightclub featuring a band he hadn't heard of -- was completely baffled.
This went on through most of the winter, until one day, after yet another lengthy description of a climbing trip but with the added bonus of a description of a bivouac, his partner said (channeling John's imitation of a Cantonese accent here)...
"Ah! Now understanding. You sleep... IN DIRT!"
How I miss the man
RIP brother
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Nov 20, 2012 - 01:26am PT
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Fantatic thread!
Thanks for all the great photos and stories.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 20, 2012 - 03:48am PT
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Like the aerials Drew with that forming see through lenticular over the summit. It shows a great view of your route on Serra II Bruce and your shot is a good angle of it also.Jim has some good pictures of the south ridge and I have a little video of it. Jim has tons of great pics we just have to get on his case about scanning them.Yes I'm talking to you, Jim.Nice story about JC Ghost and that's not your usual butt shot.
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