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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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My whole life growing up on the inside coast of Vancouver Island I can't count the number of times I've stared over to the mainland at the craggy peaks that dot the coastline. From the summits of many island peaks, on a clear day you can see deep into the coast mountains even to Waddington.
The other night I re-watched the Dean Potter wingsuit flight off Mt Bute and was blown away by what little I had heard about this remarkable granite peak. I found this route School of Rock, 50 pitches or so long, over 6000' of vertical http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/canada/british-columbia/2009-mt-bute-school-of-rock-by-b-kay/
How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range? Do you fly in up the coast from the mainland or water taxi? I've been toying with the idea of an old school sailboat assist into the inlet and bushwhack into the mountains but maybe I'm just a sucker for punishment.
What are the logistics of exploring this area, what are the hazards? What new activity has been done in the Coast Range? There's very little granite on the island here and apart from cragging in Squamish, my real interests lie in the alpine rock. I've been staring at these peaks far too long and its about damn time I got to know them a little more intimately.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Unless you've got lots of time, I'd suggest flying in, unless you want to do some exploring in the John Clarke style. If it's granite you want, There's some stuff in the Raleigh-Gilbert area, Bute (of course), lots to do in the Klatassine area. Fly into the upper Tellot Glacier from Bluff Lake (heli), and climb your brains out on the granite there.
So much to do.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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How many of you west coasters have climbed in the coast range?
We all have. And a few of us survived. Most didn't though, so the right way to start this whole discussion is to channel Locker, and say..
Yur gonna die!
Seriously though, there are some people posting here who might be able to tell you a thing or two. They'll step forward, or not, but since you brought up the idea of starting from the Island and crossing the water to get to the mountains, you should start your research here: http://kobus.ca/adventures/waddington/index.html
That was one the most badass things ever done in the Coast Range.
And I think Rob Wood did a lot of water approaches, but I don't know him and he doesn't post here.
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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I did the NOLS waddington range traverse years back....
The approaches suck..... We spent 4 day just to get to the to the first glaciers... We started on the inland side and went out the knights inlet.
We started at Twist Lake and ended at Canyon lake at which point we were took a sea plane out.
The view were amazing
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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If you've been gazing across the water from, say, Comox, why not take a boat up Homfray Channel and do the NW buttress on Mt. Denman? I've looked at it for many years and never been in that particular area. Looks good, and rock should be ok.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ghost and I know stuff about one another we prolly should not know but do nevertheless because of multi-day rainstorms.
True, and you can read about it here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/759442/The-definitive-Canadian-climbing-underwear-thread
If you read that thread a bit, you'll see that GF is in it. Ask him about the Coast Range. Bruce Kay posts here a lot, and also knows a thing or two about the Coast Range, and about Mt. Bute. Likewise Jim Brennan and Bruce MacD. And Hamie. And Tricouni. And probably a bunch of others.
In fact the depth of Coast Range knowledge and experience here is staggering.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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Thanks for the insight all and the stories. Yeah I know what wet is, this has been one of the rainiest seasons I can remember and I've been on the island a long time.
I was thinking of doing the inlet approach and bushwahck if I can find some objectives that aren't too far from the coast. I'd love to get deeper in and climb some of the more epic peaks in the area with Waddington being a lifelong goal. I still have to sharpen my skills a lot before that kind of stuff though. Mainly I would like to do some trips out there to get to know the area, maybe scramble a few peaks before doing anything too comitting.
Besides the fact that I might end up waiting forever for a weather window that doesn't come. I was advised to be prepared for a long stay. Approaching by sailboat/ zodiac would be a grea way to negate having to haul everything as we could be out there for a month or more and just re-load on supplies from the boat between excursions.
I've read Rob Wood's Towards the Unknown Mountains which chronicles the slog in to Waddington as well as some beautiful other adventures. I'm still up for some old fashioned bushwhacking but hopefully thats not all I'd do.
Any of you got pictures from out there you would like to share?
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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All I can say is there sure is a lot of UFO activity in the coast range, and yes I got it on video
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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gf reminded me that the dreaded Beckey may have struck on Mt Denman. No matter: you should do it anyways; it's in your back yard and you can the wall between the NW and SW ridges.
Extra points if you can identify the big peak with lots of snow in the background.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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If I identify the mountain just to the right of the Camel's ass, do I win Tami?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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From more southerly parts in the coast ranges.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Big stab but I think it's Raleigh Gilbert.
Did I win the camels behind door number three ?
Sorry Tami, but maybe you get the horde of fleas that's all over the camel.
but Gilbert would be about the same distance away, if it wasn't hidden by other stuff. It's Mt. Alfred, at the head of Jervis Inlet. Really stands out from the west.
Bruce, that was indeed an epic that your dad did in the 1950s (with greats like Elfrida Pigou, Neal Carter, Alan Melville and others). Like you, I've had the pleasure of bushwhacking in some of those valleys, and I've got nothing but admiration for that bunch.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Luckily we have geologists and geographers, and other 'ists, to answer such questions. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.
And then there's the Pacific Ranges...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dad had a "Trapper Dan" pack. Just as awful heavy as the Nelson. Not quite sure of the differences. Tricouni or hamie might be familiar with this rig.
Actually, my top-of-the-line Arcteryx pack is just as heavy as my Trapper Nelson. Bloody heavy, all right. Never heard of Trapper Dan - must be a knock-off.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I not only had (and used) a Trapper Nelson, I built it myself. It worked just fine, better than some of the stupid rigs that were available commercially back then.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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. People here often say "coast ranges" as a generic term. The 1965 guide - the 'bible' - was titled A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, and may be where it started.
Dick used "Coastal Ranges" to emphasize that the thing is not one range but many. Current terminology is Coast Mountains, in parallel with Columbia Mountains (includes Purcells, Monashees, Selkirk ranges), Rocky Mountains, and Insular Mountains (Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii) as a first-order division. As a composite term, Coast Mountains is very appropriate: there's no single watershed divide (as with the Rockies or Sierras or North Cascades; many rivers such as the Homathko, Dean, have their headwaters well east of the Coat Mtns.
Within the Coast Mountains we've got many ranges: the somewhat useless Pacific Ranges, Fiord Ranges, Kitimat Ranges, Boundary Ranges, etc. Within these ranges we've gotlots of individual ranges: Waddington, Pantheon, Whitemantle, Miut, and other useful terms.
Coast Mountains is old (official since 1902). Coast Ranges is old, probably older. Climbers still tend to use Coast Range; geologists use Coat Mountains to avoid confusion with the geologically dissimilar Californai/Oregon Coast Range.
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Going up the knights inlet by boat is possible and has been done look at this TR.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/860096/TR_Jubilee_Waddington_Knight_I
Mt Jubilee is climbable from the knights inlet but requires a 2 day bushwack from canyon lake up a "unused logging road" that is overgrown with alders. Then you have to follow the ridge line (bottom left hand corner) onto the Lomolo glacier this gives you options to climb any of the various peaks around that valley.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Maybe you're thinking of a Bergens pack? My father has one. They were state of the art for the early 1960s.
As I started with the scouts, we had the whole nine metres - Trapper Nelsons, tin can cooking, etc.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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Yeesh that TR was about what I expected, more time spent bushwhacking and less time spent climbing. I guess I was trying to avoid having fly-in be the only option considering my budget is only slightly above dirtbag status. As far as I know thats the closest alpine granite to where I live, save for Greyback peak on the island which is remote and has one route i think? Its mostly low angle.
Curse you mainlanders and Valley folk, I hope you never take your rock for granted. If you do, I'm sure a short trip to the island will have you crying for home.
I made a sad realization that as much as I love Vancouver Island because I can do everything here (climbing, hiking, skiing, aid, not really ice) most of it is just training for objectives elsewhere. The coast range (coastal ranges?) still seems like a beautiful place I'd like to explore. I'm hoping to make a trip over to Eldred for the cleanup this year (never been) and do some climbing. Maybe do some scrambles in the area to check out the peaks.
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