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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Where do you climb anyhow? Lubbock is flat as hell (and sadly very dry for many years now)
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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I train at defying gravity (205 east 19th Lubbock Tx). As far as climbing in Texas, Palo Duro canyon, Enchanted rock, and hueco tanks. But I go to Colorado and such and such to climb. I climb at Palo duro all the time look it up on mountain project. Yes it sucks, but its Texas so I take what I can get. Me and supa cool climbing girlfriend are moving.g to Colorado after nursing school so we can climb something that's worth a shit!
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Cams?
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Southwest for the winter
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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wired bliss! they are awesome!!!
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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I really can't imagine that the wired bliss cams are worth a crap
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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Locker i don't know why not. The pics aren't pretty on the website. And the amount of pretty pics is always directly related to their quality. That's how it works right? Pictures right?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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I used wired bliss cams exclusively for over 10 years.
That's basically all I had for a rack during that time.
They wore out, and coz thought I was gonna die so he sent me a rack of BD camlots .....
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Hmmm. Locker I may try some out in all honesty. What sizes would you suggest are good or are all of them. I'm thinking in the bigger sizes since the prices for the smaller ones are about the same as other bd and metolious cams I know work great for sure. Yea I know I kinda defeat the purpose for this thread. I just like talking pro though.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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What about thems links cams?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 25, 2012 - 05:18am PT
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couchmaster: For Christmas, I bought my son some old used 4 cam u stem metolius cams dirt cheap and had metolius resling them.
Wait. You have 47 sets of cams and you went out and bought more for the kidder? Not sure if that's just flat out mean on the sharing front or a case of god bless the child...
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Huttersund, Jämtland, Sweden,
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Feb 25, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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The pics aren't pretty on the website. And the amount of pretty pics is always directly related to their quality. That's how it works right? Pictures right?
I think the wired bliss TCUs are truly beautiful. Especially after reading Steve Byrnes thread here on the forum. I'd love to have some but already have a full set from Metolius. Along with a set of C3s and C4s as so many others.
I was given an orange Link Cam from a friend as a birthday present, bring it on climbs out of gratitude but never actually use it, placement rarely feels good. At least not in Scandinavian rock. Awesome theoretical design though.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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I'm thinking metolious in the smalls, bd in the middle, and wild country on zee big end.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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Yea I'm not buying any more bd cams until I see what others who have used them say about the new quality.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Explain TROLL.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Feb 26, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
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I'll play along and offer my preference.
For small cams / TCUs, I go with Wired Bliss all the way. WB stuff is built to last here in the USA, and I am a big fan. For mid to large size, I mix C4s and Wired Bliss 4CUs. All my BDs are pre-China. The WB and BD sizes seem to compliment each other in the .5 and above size.
Since we are talking about this, I just saw the new WC Helium Friends at REI in Berkeley. Although they seem very nicely made, they felt VERY light (almost flimsy) and the width of the lobes seemed really thin. I like the old WC Tech Friends, but the newer Helium Friends made a rather poor first impression.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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What about wild country tech friends the newer ones.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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BD cam quality is excellent, I have never had an issue and, trust me, I've placed more cams than 99% of the climbing population. That said, there are other decent cams on the market that I have had limited experience with.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 20, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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JH said: "Wait. You have 47 sets of cams and you went out and bought more for the kidder? Not sure if that's just flat out mean on the sharing front or a case of god bless the child... "
LOL, I figured he can trash his own equipment. Metolius makes great product, and for some reason, once the slings get trashed, people sell them used for very little scratch. I sent them into the factory and Metolius "remodeled" them to look near new. I mean, they came back looking shiny and new - from the new slings, slick moment, to the now shiny metal. Amazing quality and amazingly cheap.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 20, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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what cams do you use? Well whats the best?
The ones that fit, work and hold.
What else do you want?
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Saw my old thread bumped up.
My made in China camalots are working great and are holding up just fine. I've only taken the made china cams on 5 or 6 trips though.
I've found the link cam only useful for anchors and the occasional quick aid price. Like locker said there are too many moving parts for me also. I am always worried about falling on it and having it snap where the lobes seperate.
Getting a totem cam or two soon for funs. Will comment when I brake em in or brake them.
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